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Ok, I got my replacement TEHCM installed. The work was done by a guy who does some work from home (and formerly owned a shop). He did the install and then called a "mobile" guy to do the programming. The programming cost $150. That seems to be about the going rate for programming. I had also called a few transmission shops for quotes and some of them also used a mobile programming service. The quotes were generally about $400 labor for the installation + $150-175 for programming. That was with me supplying the rebuilt TEHCM and new fluid. I bought the Dorman 609-000 rebuilt TEHCM on ebay, since that was the best price I could find.

On the old TEHCM, 2 of the 4 laminate disks had failed badly. One was completely missing (hopefully not clogging up something elsewhere in my transmission now), another was mostly separated and flapping in the breeze so to speak. The other two appeared to be intact.

The symptoms I was having before the replacement were:

1) 1-2 sec delay and then rough engagement when shifting from R to D. This was happening consistently.

2) Occasional failure to shift above 2nd gear, accompanied by a CEL with code P0752 (solenoid stuck on). This was only happening intermittently, every few weeks. Turning the car off for a few min allowed it to reset and be driveable again.

The first symptom is gone after the replacement. Hopefully the second one is also, but time will tell.

My vehicle is a 2008 Saturn Outlook with about 170k miles. This was the first transmission problem on it. I got lucky and never had the wave plate problem (knock on wood).

Thank you to others who have posted here. It was very helpful to be able to self-diagnose the problem, and helped me to save me some money on the repair.
 
Good to read your update, @chumley. Nice work. Thank you.
 
Hey guys, could really use some advice. I got a p0752 and p0700 code on my 2007 gmc acadia. Symptoms were the car at times cant make it past second, the engine light will come on but clear if the car is turned off or if check engine light code is cleared, this doesnt happen regularly but has a handful of times. Also noticed a bit of a kick when shifting from reverse into drive, again not extreme but it's somewhat noticable. Tried changing transmission fluid and it helped but only temporarily it seems. Sure sounds like the transmission tcm needs to be swapped out, but i also read about wave plate issues, could the problem be the wave plate? Dealer wanted 2500 which seems ridiculous.
 
... Sure sounds like the transmission tcm needs to be swapped out, but i also read about wave plate issues, could the problem be the wave plate? ...
Welcome to the forum.
There would likely be no reverse at all if the wave plate broke. Good luck.
 
Welcome to the forum.
There would likely be no reverse at all if the wave plate broke. Good luck.
Thanks I'm a long time lurker. Fixed a few oil related issues through this site. Any other issues that you can think of that can throw out a p0752 code? I think at the moment I might just wait it out. I've only had the cant shift out of second issue twice and it's been months in between.
 
... Any other issues that you can think of that can throw out a p0752 code? ...
Sometimes, it's just disintegration of a pressure switch. Read about replacing the shift solenoid pressure switches (laminate disks). You'll find doing that is a lot less expensive than replacing the entire TEHCM.
 
Sometimes, it's just disintegration of a pressure switch. Read about replacing the shift solenoid pressure switches (laminate disks). You'll find doing that is a lot less expensive than replacing the entire TEHCM.
Hi everyone, I have a 2008 Acadia and was having periodic not shifting into 2. Shut off and resrart and all was good. Did this for awhile. I found this forum and thought wow it’s great info. i just completed the replacement and found I cracked but replaced all four. I originally had 700 and 752 codes. Well everything seeemed to go well but after completing the job now the car will not get out of park. I disconnected and reconnected harness still no luck. Wondering if I damaged something or now have a bad valve? Any help is greatly appreciated. Should I just replace the tehcm and hope for the best? Did I damage valve body?
 
Sometimes, it's just disintegration of a pressure switch. Read about replacing the shift solenoid pressure switches (laminate disks). You'll find doing that is a lot less expensive than replacing the entire TEHCM.
Thanks again! Maybe a stupid question but do you need to reprogram the tehcm after replacing the laminated discs?
 
Sometimes, it's just disintegration of a pressure switch. Read about replacing the shift solenoid pressure switches (laminate disks). You'll find doing that is a lot less expensive than replacing the entire TEHCM.
Just curious do you think a tranmission shop could diagnose a bad tehcm or more specifically disintegration of a pressure switch without physically removing the tehcm? I'm just trying to trouble shoot before ordering parts. Thanks in advance.
 
Just curious do you think a tranmission shop could diagnose a bad tehcm or more specifically disintegration of a pressure switch without physically removing the tehcm? I'm just trying to trouble shoot before ordering parts. Thanks in advance.
My opinion is a trans shop would charge A LOT to try to diagnose a tehcm. My symptoms where codes P700 P752 and frequent stuck in first gear problem. I just went ahead and ordered the pressure switch kit and found 4 broken or cracked switches.
I am pretty handy but never thought I could complete a transmission job like this but it wasn't very difficult at all, just take your time and follow the instructions from this thread.
 
Just curious do you think a tranmission shop could diagnose a bad tehcm or more specifically disintegration of a pressure switch without physically removing the tehcm? ...
I have the same opinion as miroch. You have already observed trouble codes and driveabilty problems consistent with a pressure switch malfunction. A shop would be tasked with duplicating work already done and they're not going to do it for free. Then, they would have to look inside to confirm those findings.
 
My opinion is a trans shop would charge A LOT to try to diagnose a tehcm. My symptoms where codes P700 P752 and frequent stuck in first gear problem. I just went ahead and ordered the pressure switch kit and found 4 broken or cracked switches.
I am pretty handy but never thought I could complete a transmission job like this but it wasn't very difficult at all, just take your time and follow the instructions from this thread.
Ok solid advice everyone I'm going to order the kit and next time I have an issue I will give it a go. I will make sure I update everyone once I do the work. Really appreciate you guys.
 
... Wondering if I damaged something or now have a bad valve? Any help is greatly appreciated. Should I just replace the tehcm and hope for the best? Did I damage valve body?
These are questions only you can answer by going back in and double-checking your work.
 
yes plan on taking it apart again in the morning. I was wondering if you knew what might cause that?
What else is there to say? If it worked before and doesn't now, no one can second guess what went wrong during reassembly.
 
When I replaced my laminate discs, I never had a CEL pop up. (set or pending). I noticed the shift issues though.
Ordered the parts and put them in. I read through the entire thread to see what issues/tips others had.
It was several cold engine starts and I believe 80 miles of driving for the computer to do its relearn and then return to smooth shifts.
 
Question about getting to the tehcm bolts, can these all be accessed from the top of the vehicle, ie under the hood? Or do you have to go underneath the vehicle to access some of these? I know someone mentioned taking off the driver wheel and accessing two bolts from underneath... Once I get the alldatadiy subscription I'm sure this might be answered. I just ask as I have nothing currently to lift and work underneath my vehicle. I might buy some ramps to easily change transmission fluid. I noted that this seems to be a somewhat time intensive job and just curious how hard it is to get at these bolts once the airbox is removed. Thanks in advance.
 
Kaptin, go back and reread many posts.
The reason being- that theres many bolts on the cover. There are torque specs.
This is really important when you remove the actual TECHM.

The bolts are different lengths and bolt head sizes. They are also re-installed and torqued in a sequence to get the TECHM to seat properly.

I made a post with a picture I used-- and as I removed bolts- I pushed them in to the image/carboard plate I made. On the picture I also made reference to the reinstall sequence and socket size.
 
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