GMC Acadia Forum banner
161 - 180 of 198 Posts
Many have mentioned that the screws should be tourque to a specific rating, I'm not sure up north if they lend tools (maybe Canadians are not as nice as advertized). Do I need to buy a tourque wrench? All I have is your standard ratchet. Also I read that a palm ratchet is handy so not sure if torquing to a specific caliber using a torque wrench is required or if one can use judgement?

Also just wondering if transmission pan needs to be removed or just drained?

Thanks all!
 
kaptin-- there is no transmission pan.
there is a drain bolt. that allows the draining of about half the fluid.

I ordered a small torque wrench via Home Depot. Just for this job. the torque is in inch lb.
 
my post- #119..
may answer some of your questions.

 
this is the tq wrench I bought via Home Depot.
I chose it because the handle was shorter than others I looked at.
Short handle-- because I figured the area being worked in was a tight fit.
Very pleased with the wrench.

With my history of overtighting and breaking children's toys, I should buy something similar lol.
 
Working on vehicle today and tomorrow. One thing I did note so far is that the torque screw that holds the airbox at the bottom is a t30. And it is a pain to get to. Will share any tips I have.
 
Looks like I was successful, knock on wood. I used the sonnax kit, it was very evident that the discs were the culprit.

The repair took me two full days, I would not try and do it in one, leave yourself a weekend. I bought 4.5 inch plastic ramps, these were perfect. I would say 80 percent of the work is underneath the car and yes there is lots of fluid that drips so buy some plastic sheets if you dont want that fluid everywhere.

A couple of extremely useful things:
A small step ladder, small palm ratchet (this will save hours), automotive picks (if using the sonnax kit), a 1/4 torque wrench, a miners style headlamp. I personally would not do the job without these.

Do what rbarrios did, print out the tehcm picture and tape it to a box then make little holes, and insert bolts into said box according to where they were removed from the tehcm. You dont want to mix these up or confuse yourself.

You may think do I need the alldata.diy subscription? Get it, I know some of the info is in here but not all of it, there is a specific order bolts should be removed, reinserted and torqued, plus it shows all the electrical connections.

I could not get the darned airbox fully out, I removed the engine cover and the tubing etc, that goes all the way to the airbox, I took of the airbox cover off and removed the bolts holding it in place, I couldn't get it out completely but could at least move it a bit.

As for the tehcm cover I found it way easier to take it out and then reinstall it by pushing it up from the bottom of the vehicle. The only time I really needed a helper was getting a bolt in to hold the tehcm in place while reinstalling, I didnt want to drop it.

I had a small freakout when I removed the tehcm at first as one disc and the rubber piston that goes underneath were completely missing. Luckily I found the rubber piston stuck to the transmission plate that the tehcm bolts onto, it was basically clinging on by transmission fluid. Would not want to buy a new tehcm because of one little rubber piston.

When replacing the laminate discs, use care, I noticed that under the rubber piston I actually lightly scratched some of the metal where contact is made with the rubber piston. Gave me a small heart attack but all seems to be ok. Now I'm no whizz so maybe someone knows what the metal contact point does exactly? If so let me know please.

Vehicle seems to be driving much better, no rough jumps or anything, no check engine lights, I've driven it for 2 days and seems to be getting smoother shifting each day.
 
I just did the sonnax laminate disc repair and removed the airbox to make some more room to remove the transmission cover plate and tehcm. It is a big ole pain to remove the bottom part of the air filter housing. A couple of tips to make someone else's life easier.

The bottom housing is secured to the body by three fasteners. The first is a 10 mm bolt that you can see at the top right of the housing (facing toward the car). The second is a T30 Torx screw that is to the left of the first fastener. I removed that with an extension and a t30 bit. The third fastener is also a T30, but it is hidden underneath an additional piece of plumbing that connects to the main air intake. That part is riveted to the main box, and it surrounds the windshield washer fluid neck. Once you get all three fasteners out, it is possible to manhandle that thing out of there.

Getting it back in in one piece is near impossible. So, I drilled out the rivet holding the additional plumbing with the third fastener, and the box slid right into place. I could have riveted it back on once I slid the parts back together, but I just used a zip tie through the rivet hole, and secured it with the ratchet end of a second zip tie. I probably wasted an hour trying to get the bottom housing as a whole in there before I took that piece off. I also moved the ECM to create some extra room.

If I had to do that job again, I would cut the rivet (now zip tie parts) and remove the bottom housing in two pieces.
 
No, but the shifts will be a little rough for a few weeks until it relearns the shift patterns.
Define "rough". I did the laminated disks this past weekend, and I still have a bit of a delay going into drive first thing in the morning, but it seems to be improved over pre-laminate disk replacement. If I drive the Acadia, then let it sit for a few minutes, there seems to be a minimal to no delay versus needing to wait an extended time or gun the gas pedal pre-replacement.

I have only driven 3 or 4 times for a total of less than 40 miles. Do I need to be more patient to feel the full effects, or is this as good as it gets?

Thanks

Tom
 
Acadia tom--- give it a few more miles.
I believe I posted on mine that it took 80 or 88 miles- and I believe it was several cold engine starts for the shifting to be back to normal
 
  • Like
Reactions: AcadiaTom
Acadia tom--- give it a few more miles.
I believe I posted on mine that it took 80 or 88 miles- and I believe it was several cold engine starts for the shifting to be back to normal
Seems like I need to find excuses to drive the Acadia these days. One improvement is that starts after short stops -- running into a store, for example, seem to be good. The initial morning shift into drive may still take a few seconds, but I don't seem to need to rev the engine like before replacing the disks.

I am thinking of getting a new code scanner that has bidirectional functions. Being able to test more systems would have saved a bunch of money when a bad AC pressure sensor caused a bunch of 5v sensors to give bad data and I replaced the throttle body, throttle position sensor and the accompanying connectors to shotgun the problem. Does anyone know of a sub $600 unit that will allow for a reset of the adaptive transmission (Autel, Launch, etc)?

Tom
 
Ok, so we about 3 weeks into the new laminated seals on the TEHCM. Due to Covid restrictions, driving of the 2009 Acadia has been very light -- maybe 10 trips during that time, and perhaps 150 miles.

Initial forward gear engagement from a cold start is not quite instantaneous, but reasonably close. Prior to the repair I often had to hold a foot on the brake, then rev the engine for the transmission to engage first gear. There has been a bit of a rough shift from 2nd to 3rd gears, but that is less pronounced over the past few trips.

Warm starts, after, say, a quick run to the hardware store, are smoooth, with no lag going into drive. That is a huge improvement since replacement of the laminated disks. I occasionally used the Acadia to Uber on the weekends, and the lag going into drive was not appreciated by me or my passengers. Very embarassing.

I purchased a ThinkDiag Bidirectional OBD II Scanner with the purpose of resetting the Transmission. However, that, and several other functions are add-ons that are sold in addition to the cost of the unit. Still, for $119, I was able to read fault codes in all of the car's control modules, as well as activate individual door locks from my phone (one example, with many, many other components accessible and controllable). It did read the tranny module and no codes were present, so I am just going to let the adaptive learning do its thing. I will do a more thorough review of the ThinkDiag in the DIY section once I have had a few days to familiarize myself with its functions.

Overall, the tranny is almost back to normal, which is great, especially since I rescued the car hours before the tranny guy was to start a rebuild and rack up a 3000 dollar bill. This forum has, once again, proved that the collective knowledge of many can be more valuable than the individual knowledge of an expert.
 
I'm going to attempt a pressure switch replace this coming weekend.
I have a 2010 gmc terrain.
v6 3.0.
6t70 6 speed.

The procedure looks pretty straightforward, these forum posts are a huge help.
I'm just a little confused. The alldatadiy says I must replace the solenoid filter plate, but I can not find the part number. There are 2 different versions and neither of them say that they fit my vehicle.
So I guess I'm asking do I need to replace this or to just ignore alldata?
 
I'm going to attempt a pressure switch replace this coming weekend.
I have a 2010 gmc terrain.
v6 3.0.
6t70 6 speed.

The procedure looks pretty straightforward, these forum posts are a huge help.
I'm just a little confused. The alldatadiy says I must replace the solenoid filter plate, but I can not find the part number. There are 2 different versions and neither of them say that they fit my vehicle.
So I guess I'm asking do I need to replace this or to just ignore alldata?
Symptoms are after sitting for a couple hours the first time in Drive it shifts from first to second fine, but then it stays in second and rpms go up. But if I pull over and put it into park for like 10 seconds it shifts normal for the rest of drive.
 
Thanks for the thread! I have been putting off the codes and shifting problems until it finally quit clearing codes and happened every time it was started. Clear from the pics below. It took me just over 3 hours, but my airbox only had 1 bolt in the bottom half so that came right out. Most likely when GM replaced my wave plates they left out the others. I just used a jack and one jack stand so I could lower it to get the top stuff then raise for lowers and back down quickly as needed. One of the plungers was flipped and I thought it was broke. For $35 It's like a new car now!
 
i took out the tcm and put everything back everything is ok but now my car won’t start at all just the dash lights come on but when I try and turn it over all of my dash lights go off and car won’t start
 
i would check the big plug on the transmissino- make sure you didnt bend any pins...
also-- did you plug in connectors to the tech?
 
Does anyone know if this repair can be done on a 2014? Last week the wife was driving in the parking lot and the transmission went out of gear. I pulled p2723 and p0700 codes. In drive it will engage and then it revs up out of gear. Reverse works properly. Transmission shop wants to put a new transmission in but its not worth it to me to spend 4k on this vehicle. Looks like the dorman part was not available for my year. Would a Sonnax rebuild kit work for my year?
 
161 - 180 of 198 Posts