[orange57]

The procedure to R&R the TECHM could be the same, but be aware there was a design change to the TEHCM sometime around 2012. Your car should have this second generation TEHCM. ]

I noticed when I looked up the part that the application didn't go back too far. And with the extra help was able to find the same RR on alldata.

Will get this on order and swap it out soon to hopefully be back to normal shift quality.

Thank you very much.

 

[bschwing]

curious if anyone has tired this? I read that the transmission needed to be jacked up to get the cover off the front of the transmission. is this true?

 

[speleos]

curious if anyone has tired this? I read that the transmission needed to be jacked up to get the cover off the front of the transmission. is this true?

Have you read through everything in this topic? The answers to your questions are here.

 

[bschwing]

Yep and no one has said they did or didn't.

 

[speleos]

Yep and no one has said they did or didn't.

Let's clarify things for you:

curious if anyone has tired this?

Several people responding to this thread have tried it and met with success.

I read that the transmission needed to be jacked up to get the cover off the front of the transmission. is this true?

It is not true. None of the folks who did the TEHCM R&R ever loosened a transmission mount, or jacked up the transmission to access the front cover. The first three posts in this thread go through great detail in what's necessary to do the job. Everyone else who performed this task followed that procedure.

 

[Chop-chop]

curious if anyone has tired this? I read that the transmission needed to be jacked up to get the cover off the front of the transmission. is this true?

I did this R&R a while back and it's not true. A hand ratchet/thumbwheel/palm ratchet makes removing the bolts that secure the front cover a lot easier.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-1-4-in-Direct-Drive-Palm-Ratchet/50289487

 

[Texas1st]

I've got a 2010 Traverse (~128,000 miles), and I'm about to do a TEHCM replacement on it, but my cause is a little more unique. My issues only occurs when the temp is below about 50 degrees F. The codes I'm getting are for a loss of communication, acting like the GMLAN connection is not working. I've checked the connector itself and the external wiring, and believe the TEHCM has a bad internal connection. When we have issues, a lot of the time it won't even try to turn over when I turn the key. When it does start, it will say traction control off, park assist off, reduced power, and the car won't even pull itself up my driveway. If I pull the battery negative for about a minute, usually it will start and be normal. I've gotten into the habit of turning the key on and letting the lights on the instrument cluster cycle. When they're done, if the traction control light is off, we're good. If it's on, we're going to have one of the two issues I listed.

Another symptom I have at all times is the manual shift buttons are not working when I put it into L. It stays in whatever gear I'm in.

Diagnosing this has been a Class-A B**** due to all the weirdness. But this thread has been a wealth of information and help.

So finally to my two questions:
A) Has anyone seen anything like this with theirs?
B) Since we bought the car used in March, we don't know if the Wave Plate repair has been done or is needed. Any information that might help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[JTR]

Ok, so I got the same codes, got all the parts to replace it with, but I wanted to remove the air box completely to get better angles etc.


I've been trying to get the air box out and after a couple of days I finally found the last T25 that I needed to remove, but now I'm wondering, how on earth do you tilt this thing to get it out of the car??

 

[Chop-chop]

Ok, so I got the same codes, got all the parts to replace it with, but I wanted to remove the air box completely to get better angles etc.


I've been trying to get the air box out and after a couple of days I finally found the last T25 that I needed to remove, but now I'm wondering, how on earth do you tilt this thing to get it out of the car??

If I recall this is a ***** to take out. Just try different angles and it will eventually come out.

I've got a 2010 Traverse (~128,000 miles), and I'm about to do a TEHCM replacement on it, but my cause is a little more unique. My issues only occurs when the temp is below about 50 degrees F. The codes I'm getting are for a loss of communication, acting like the GMLAN connection is not working. I've checked the connector itself and the external wiring, and believe the TEHCM has a bad internal connection. When we have issues, a lot of the time it won't even try to turn over when I turn the key. When it does start, it will say traction control off, park assist off, reduced power, and the car won't even pull itself up my driveway. If I pull the battery negative for about a minute, usually it will start and be normal. I've gotten into the habit of turning the key on and letting the lights on the instrument cluster cycle. When they're done, if the traction control light is off, we're good. If it's on, we're going to have one of the two issues I listed.

Another symptom I have at all times is the manual shift buttons are not working when I put it into L. It stays in whatever gear I'm in.

Diagnosing this has been a Class-A B**** due to all the weirdness. But this thread has been a wealth of information and help.

So finally to my two questions:
A) Has anyone seen anything like this with theirs?
B) Since we bought the car used in March, we don't know if the Wave Plate repair has been done or is needed. Any information that might help would be greatly appreciated.

Are you getting U0101 codes? I recall watching a video with similar issues to what you describe. Let me see if I can find it

 

[JTR]

If I recall this is a ***** to take out. Just try different angles and it will eventually come out.

I ended up using side-cutters to cut the two rivets (I'll just pop two new ones in there when I'm done), the plastic is really hard, maybe because she's a decade old? It took me about 10 minutes of wiggling to get the front part out of the bottom cover, with that one gone I was able to get the rest out. I spent another 5 minutes taking the other components apart, I figure, if it's this tedious to take the car apart, I might as well get it down to the smallest components and give them a well needed cleaning, since this decade old vehicle is in desperate need of a good cleaning. I should probably stop watching ChrisFix on youtube, he's made me want to paint all the metal pieces and superclean every single detail on that car, and I don't have time for any of that.


By the way, for anyone attempting to remove the TEHCM cover, do bolt 10 first, it's the hardest one, you don't want to save it for last....


I managed to get all cover bolts out, but it got dark so I decided to stop working since I couldn't see enough to figure out why it wasn't detaching itself.

 

[JTR]

Done! And, it fixed the problem!! No error codes! Yay!


If anyone is thinking about doing this, you may want to consider changing the air filter, cleaning the MAF sensor and the air intake, while you're at it. =)


Personally I did those things and also cleaned all parts that I took out, as well as the parts that were easily reachable inside the engine bay, while the parts were out of the bay. =)


All in all, it took me two weekends, but my baby runs again, I think she sounds better than she ever has, and her engine bay looks amazing!

 

[gig229]

GM should have issued a recall on this as it's a common problem, even for those who did not have the wave plate failure. When I looked online in the later years of this transmission they eliminated the pressure switches altogether. I think if you want to buy GM, it's best to wait until after the mid-cycle refresh. If you buy a new GM within the first few model years you're the beta tester...

 

[speleos]

... If you buy a new GM within the first few model years you're the beta tester...

Why single out GM? That's true throughout the auto industry and in many other lines of manufacturing. How many 'new model' cell phones, computers, etc. have you owned?

 

[Chop-chop]

Nice!!

Thanks for sharing and updating with pictures. Adding another diagram for reference with the torque sequence,

Did you guys also change the connector seal? It's very cheap and when I did mine I also replaced this rubber seal.

 

[miroch]

Nice!!

Thanks for sharing and updating with pictures

Did you guys also change the connector seal? It's very cheap and when I did mine I also replaced this rubber seal.

I did. Like you said, it's cheap so why not. I was probably a year waiting to see what I was going to do about the trans, leaning towards taking it to a trans shop. I'm glad I didn't, it's not very difficult, just time consuming. The key is to take your time, have all instructions handy and keep the bolts separated to each location.

 

[rbarrios]

yes I did replace both.
Like someone mentioned- note the direction the holes in the oval gasket for the electrical connector point

 

[Kartboarder22G]

So I just finished doing this repair this weekend, I have a 6T70 as I have a Saturn Vue which is the smaller SUV. It was no fun, that Transmission is jammed in there. On my driver's side I didn't have the air box, my air box is on the passenger side. Yet my battery is on the driver's side. I had to bend the transmission cooling lines in order to get the cover out. Then torquing the cover back on I could not get my torque wrench to fit on two of the bolts, so I had to hand guess on those two. I didn't have to remove any motor/tranny mounts like the manual said to do. I think being a smaller SUV with this big of a tranny and the 3.6 liter engine just made it very difficult to get this job done. So far I have put 5 quarts in there I'm gonna check the level again as it has to be at operating temp to get a accurate reading and to get it there at 25 degrees out takes a while. For years I've had weird shifting issues then it finally would throw a code once in a while and not shift above 2nd gear till I restarted the car. I've had the delay of shift into drive for probably over a year and once it shifts into drive it does so with a clunk. Now that I've been driving the car for a few days it is shifting much better then it did right after the repair, but the shift into drive is still weird. Still there is a delay and a slighter clunk. Two times though it shifted into drive perfectly since the repair. Does anyone know if it will continue to get better or go back to normal eventually? I know one poster said his went back to normal after a week. Here is to hoping!

 

[rbarrios]

On my repair,
right after the repair it was just the same. delayed shifting and harsh.

But in about 80 miles (2 days of driving and a few COLD engine starts), the shift changed.
Almost like it took the computer the mileage and or certain conditions to be met- to run tests/checks and relearn.

It now shifts smoothly and engages Drive in under a second.

 

[rbarrios]

reposting with images.

I also did this on Saturday.
my 2010 @ 144,000.

Sonnax kit, $33.99- ebay
24240184 Valve cover wiring gasket- $8.17
24229593 Valve cover gasket- $4.54................... total $16.06 w/shipping. rockauto.
6 qts of DexVI. - $56.70
$106.75 total for parts required.

5 hrs for trans job.

I scanned several times and no CEL set or pending since I began to feel the symptoms.

Symptoms began about 2 weeks ago.

2-3 second delay when shifting into D-- this was the most obvious symptom.

Occasionally, when coming to a sudden stop. Once I stopped. Felt like someone bumped me from behind. Almost like it had a delayed shift from 2 to 1. 1st time it happened, I looked in the rearview mirror as I thought someone had bumped me.
All shifts appeared normal 98% of the time. With an occasional delayed shift every now and then.

From having read this thread in the past- the delayed shift into D was the big clue.
So I ordered the parts online.

So for others.
The air box, has 1 screw. the other is a rubber connection. it pops on/off. the other part of the air filter housing is the same, pops on/off a rubber piece.
Being a 2010- it may be different from the earlier models.
But I found it helpful to disconnect battery and then disconnect the 2 plugs to the ECM and move those cables out of the way.

Also, I left the main part of the air box in place- but the 2nd piece actually pops off... You can turn it somewhat and pry apart. (To put it back toghether, you can twist and turn while pushing them toghether). There is a rivet that helps hold this piece to the main body- but mine was already pretty loose. (ive read others find a rivet floating around the air box----thats what this is).

Since I was going to do my endlinks anyway, I removed the tire... and then found that it was just easier to remove half of the wheel well splash guard. Literally took 5 min to remove it. bunch of push pins and 4 screws.

Give you a nice view/access of the side.
This will give you access, and also allow you to lay under the car- with one hand accessing the TCM from directly under it and the other through this opening.
So you can literally hold a bolt/socket while the other hand does the ratcheting etc.
Putting the splash guard back on, also a 5-10 min job.

Using information from the Sonnax instruction sheet and info gathered from this thread, and a great picture from this thread-
I came up with this....
As I removed the bolts from the TCM, I popped them into this cardboard info sheet.

Made the holes a little smaller than the bolt- so they would hold tightly- and not fall out.
No mixup of bolts.

What I found-

Once the pieces were removed and replaced, I put everything back and put in all the bolts.
Then in the recommended sequence, I torqued down the bolts to 106 in/lb.

Here is the image that hungtdao posted.
On the image I added the bolts lenght in mm (in case you drop em or something).
The socket is 10mm on all except the ones labeled 5/16.
In red, is the torque sequence. from 1 to 11. Meaning the one with a red (1) is the 1st one you torque down to 106 in/lb.

 

[nwacadia]

Yeah, just looked too ominous for me. I didn't want to get it back together and have something not work. So I paid $1500 CAD to have that job done. Figure if something went sideways I could just take it back to the place that did the work.