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I did the Sonnex pressure disc replacement this weekend. It took me all day Saturday and a few hours on Sunday to finish, but I'm slow and took a lot of breaks. If I was efficient about it I could have had it wrapped up in 6-7 hours.

The good news: shifting is MUCH better.

The bad news: Still have a clunk going into reverse and a slight lag going into drive. I don't know exactly what the pressure switches control, but if it keeps the engine light off I'm happy.

I put some miles on it yesterday and the wife is doing her normal driving today. I'll post an update in a few days with how it's working and a few tips I remember from doing the job.
 

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Any tips from your replacement Jim?
I did the Sonnex pressure disc replacement this weekend. It took me all day Saturday and a few hours on Sunday to finish, but I'm slow and took a lot of breaks. If I was efficient about it I could have had it wrapped up in 6-7 hours.

The good news: shifting is MUCH better.

The bad news: Still have a clunk going into reverse and a slight lag going into drive. I don't know exactly what the pressure switches control, but if it keeps the engine light off I'm happy.

I put some miles on it yesterday and the wife is doing her normal driving today. I'll post an update in a few days with how it's working and a few tips I remember from doing the job.
 

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It's been a few weeks and a few hundred miles and I'm happy to report... no engine codes and by the end of the first week all shifts are fine (including initial shifts into reverse and drive). I suppose the delay with the initial shifts was the trans "learning".

All the plastic pressure discs were broken or warped. I wouldn't doubt that every transmission has this problem to some extent (the 08 has the 6T75 transmission, not sure about other years). Highly recommend doing this repair instead of replacing the whole valve body as it's the same amount of work, MUCH CHEAPER, and no programming required. Don't even bother going to the dealer unless you're prepared to drop a $K.

Main tip is patience. The instructions here are very good. I only needed to jack up the driver's side of the car so the wheel was barely off the ground to get access. Ramps would work too. It wasn't terribly messy. Most of the fluid comes out through the drain plug, the rest when you crack the bottom few screws of the pan. I just kept a container there as I worked, wasn't a problem. On the valve body itself there are 3 electrical connectors (not to be confused with the main connector on the pan itself)... remove these sooner than later or you'll forget like I did and have to jockey things around. I didn't have a great view of all the valve body screws when tightening, and discovered I could see better looking in from the side instead of directly underneath. I probably spent the most time putting the valve body screws back in and torquing in the right order.

I didn't have any problem with the Sonnex tools. They seemed plenty sturdy for 4 seals. One of my switches read out of spec for the open/close resistance checks. It was functional in the sense the open/close value changed with switch position so I just carried on. Most people probably don't even do those checks.

Here are the part numbers I used, under $100 all in:

ac delco 24240184 - control valve body seal ($15 dealer)
ac delco 24229593 - valve body pan gasket ($10 dealer)
124740-TL30 - sonnex disc kit ($37 on ebay)
SuperTech dexron vi - 5 quarts @ $6 each from walmart. This is a fully synthetic fluid.

It's still fairly fresh in my mind. Let me know if you have any questions!
 

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That's great Jim, thanks for the update. I remember reading somewhere that the bottom connector can only be removed after the closest bolt is removed first. Did you have to remove the air box?
It's been a few weeks and a few hundred miles and I'm happy to report... no engine codes and by the end of the first week all shifts are fine (including initial shifts into reverse and drive). I suppose the delay with the initial shifts was the trans "learning".

All the plastic pressure discs were broken or warped. I wouldn't doubt that every transmission has this problem to some extent (the 08 has the 6T75 transmission, not sure about other years). Highly recommend doing this repair instead of replacing the whole valve body as it's the same amount of work, MUCH CHEAPER, and no programming required. Don't even bother going to the dealer unless you're prepared to drop a $K.

Main tip is patience. The instructions here are very good. I only needed to jack up the driver's side of the car so the wheel was barely off the ground to get access. Ramps would work too. It wasn't terribly messy. Most of the fluid comes out through the drain plug, the rest when you crack the bottom few screws of the pan. I just kept a container there as I worked, wasn't a problem. On the valve body itself there are 3 electrical connectors (not to be confused with the main connector on the pan itself)... remove these sooner than later or you'll forget like I did and have to jockey things around. I didn't have a great view of all the valve body screws when tightening, and discovered I could see better looking in from the side instead of directly underneath. I probably spent the most time putting the valve body screws back in and torquing in the right order.

I didn't have any problem with the Sonnex tools. They seemed plenty sturdy for 4 seals. One of my switches read out of spec for the open/close resistance checks. It was functional in the sense the open/close value changed with switch position so I just carried on. Most people probably don't even do those checks.

Here are the part numbers I used, under $100 all in:

ac delco 24240184 - control valve body seal ($15 dealer)
ac delco 24229593 - valve body pan gasket ($10 dealer)
124740-TL30 - sonnex disc kit ($37 on ebay)
SuperTech dexron vi - 5 quarts @ $6 each from walmart. This is a fully synthetic fluid.

It's still fairly fresh in my mind. Let me know if you have any questions!
 

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After you removed the bolts holding the tehcm did it just come off easy? Is there a clip holding it in? I took off 12 bolts and the thing doesn’t want to budge.
 

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Yes, it pretty much falls out. My guess is you got one of the wrong bolts out and the TECHM is still secured. I did this, took out a bolt that was for something else and it looked exactly like all the others. Try looking in from the side with a bright light, or possibly feeling around, and you should find it.

Not 100% sure on the bottom connector and the bottom bolt... but disconnect before you get far along or you might forget. They are all easy to remove.

I removed the top of the air box, the air filter, and the snorkle tube but not the bottom of the air box. Putting it back together I cleaned out the throttle body. Had plenty of access with those removed, did most of the work from the bottom.
 

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It's been a few weeks and a few hundred miles and I'm happy to report... no engine codes and by the end of the first week all shifts are fine (including initial shifts into reverse and drive). I suppose the delay with the initial shifts was the trans "learning".
Great!!

I didn't have any problem with the Sonnex tools. They seemed plenty sturdy for 4 seals. One of my switches read out of spec for the open/close resistance checks. It was functional in the sense the open/close value changed with switch position so I just carried on. Most people probably don't even do those checks.

Here are the part numbers I used, under $100 all in:

ac delco 24240184 - control valve body seal ($15 dealer)
ac delco 24229593 - valve body pan gasket ($10 dealer)
124740-TL30 - sonnex disc kit ($37 on ebay)
SuperTech dexron vi - 5 quarts @ $6 each from walmart. This is a fully synthetic fluid.

It's still fairly fresh in my mind. Let me know if you have any questions!

Interested in those open/close resistance checks? Did the kit come with instructions to do those checks?
 

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Yes, you can view the instructions here:


https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/instructions/3767/124740-30K-IN.pdf?v=1521655606


Three switches were in spec, the other was ~28ohms. I measured it a few times and it was repeatable. The switch was fine otherwise so I just hoped the instructions were slightly off and put it together anyway.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing.

One thing that was not clear was when testing the pressure switches you push into them and they can be tested with/without the laminate discs?
 

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YMMV but when this happened to mine (about 40k miles after the rebuild due to broken wavy plate, via dealership) I took it to an independent transmission shop and they said it is very likely that during the rebuild not all the metal fragments were removed; thus eventually causes these problems.

At that point I opted for a re manufactured transmission with a 4 year/500k mile warranty
 

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Lots of great info in this thread. Tackling this in our 2010 Traverse over the next couple of days and curious

1) I'm replacing the discs, not the TCM. Do I need to unplug negative battery side before disconnecting? I'm assuming using the same TCM going back in would not warrant any electrical steps other than disconnecting items at cover and tcm.

2) Noticed one person taking off wheel well shroud on drivers side for access. Anyone else use this method? Easier?

Thanks
 

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1) I'm replacing the discs, not the TCM. Do I need to unplug negative battery side before disconnecting? I'm assuming using the same TCM going back in would not warrant any electrical steps other than disconnecting items at cover and tcm.
I did. Took 2 minutes to disconnect. Not sure if it's needed or not.

2) Noticed one person taking off wheel well shroud on drivers side for access. Anyone else use this method? Easier?

I did not. I struggled a bit getting enough light and a good view and I could see how taking off the wheel well would give you considerably more access and visibility to the screws. I have no idea what's involved in taking the well out, but I wouldn't bother with it even in retrospect.
 

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Fairly easy fix - about 6 hrs

Tried to post pic but forum rules won't allow it.

Decided to jump on this Sunday morning. Keep in mind this was on a 2010 Traverse but as this forum was easily the most helpful I'll post here.

1st two on the left were obviously bad. Couple of notes from the project

1) Cordless ratchet wrench. Didn't see anyone mention using one in earlier posts but its a time saver for sure. Made removal much easier and while I had to go back and tighten bolts after ratcheting in, can't imagine how much more time I'd have taken without it.

2) Removing the popouts holding the rubber piece behind the driver's side wheel made it easier as well for both the TCM and the cover. I didn't remove the wheel, just turned it to the left all the way.

3) Happy wife... happy life...

Thanks for all the help guys.
 

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Finally got to doing this yesterday.

Took me about 7 hrs. Wasn't too difficult, just time consuming. My plan was to just remove the top of the airbox but the bottom piece was only held on by 1 bolt. Someone must of not put the others back in. It may be different in other years but the 07 has a one piece bottom section. Took some time to figure out how to get it out from the tight space but you just need to find the right angle to bring it out. This gave soooooo much more room to work.

A time saver for me was finger ratchets. I was able to reach down from the top and get to almost all the bolts.

Alldiydata instructions and photos really helped in loosening the correct bolts.

Don't forget lots of shop towels and thin work gloves.

3 out of the 4 switches were broke. I almost had a heart attack when one of the white plastic discs were missing (solenoid?) I found it in the oil catch pan I had under the Acadia catching the trans fluid. It fell out when i pulled the TCM out because the switch was completely missing.

Overall went really well. Oh and don't forget to plug the main TCM connector back in. The vehicle will not start without it plugged in. Ask me how I know lol.
 

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Hey guys,

We have a 2014 Buick Enclave that was slow to downshift, or just a really hard down shift, generally when making a turn. Took it to the dealer and they said it was the TCM needing replacing to the tune of $1400. Well, that is a lot of money, and I'm pretty good with a wrench. I have the alldata subscription, but it doesn't list the procedure for this removal. Is this the same procedure for the 2014? Seems a lot of the replacements are on slightly earlier models.

Thank you,

Matt
 

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Hey guys,

We have a 2014 Buick Enclave that was slow to downshift, or just a really hard down shift, generally when making a turn. Took it to the dealer and they said it was the TCM needing replacing to the tune of $1400. Well, that is a lot of money, and I'm pretty good with a wrench. I have the alldata subscription, but it doesn't list the procedure for this removal. Is this the same procedure for the 2014? Seems a lot of the replacements are on slightly earlier models.

Thank you,

Matt
Here's a screenshot of where I found the tcm removal.
 

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We have a 2014 Buick Enclave that was slow to downshift, or just a really hard down shift, generally when making a turn. Took it to the dealer and they said it was the TCM needing replacing to the tune of $1400. ...
The procedure to R&R the TECHM could be the same, but be aware there was a design change to the TEHCM sometime around 2012. Your car should have this second generation TEHCM.
 

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Thank you, I was not looking under that tab. I was looking under the control module and a couple others.

Thank you much!

Will get this on order and swap it out. Dealer still has the car for the oil pick up tube seal which was causing some engine clatter, and I didn't want to tackle that one myself.
 

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Thank you, I was not looking under that tab. I was looking under the control module and a couple others.

Thank you much!

Will get this on order and swap it out. Dealer still has the car for the oil pick up tube seal which was causing some engine clatter, and I didn't want to tackle that one myself.
Your welcome. Good luck with everything. Let us know how you make out.
 
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