My 2012 Acadia is disappointing me. My latest issue is that it starts and then dies while you are driving. Then it won't start for a couple of hours. I took it to Pep Boys and was told it COULD be the throttle body assembly & I essential have to agree to pay them $1300 just to test their theory with no guarantees. I told them no. Took it to another mechanic and they couldn't find anything wrong. The test drove it and even let it run for 3 hours and nothing. Next step for me is to take it to dealership for diagnostic. Any suggestions for me? I have repaired the transmission (still in warranty), changed catalytic converters, a/c compressor, engine mount, etc. Done a lot of work on it so I need it for a few more years.
2012 GMC Acadia SLT
BaylorSic96
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Sure, IF it’s worth $5k.
But what if it’s just an OBD-2 plug-in Dongle any of us could buy ourselves … for $200, say. I’ve rented tools at AutoZone or Advance and gotten charged almost that much! You don’t bring it back, you’ve bought it for $200.
I've owned a 2007 Acadia SLT since new. It now has over 200,000 miles and I've done many of the repairs myself. Youtube is your friend.
Get an inexpensive OBD port scan dongle and discover why the engine light is on. If it's a throttle body problem, that's relatively easy to fix. With a lot of miles they get stiff, especially with temperature changes. I took mine out several times over the years and cleaned it with throttle body spray cleaner, which helped for a while, but the problem always came back. It wasn't that expensive of a part, so I just decided to stop cleaning it and instead replaced it. That was about 30,000 miles ago and haven't had a problem since.
Of course, until you have more information from an OBD scan you really won't know what to repair. I've sometimes used the tool to get home when my car kept going nuts because of some sensor causing my engine power to be reduced. Believe me, I've been through it all with this car, but as of this very moment, all is well!
Get an inexpensive OBD port scan dongle and discover why the engine light is on. If it's a throttle body problem, that's relatively easy to fix. With a lot of miles they get stiff, especially with temperature changes. I took mine out several times over the years and cleaned it with throttle body spray cleaner, which helped for a while, but the problem always came back. It wasn't that expensive of a part, so I just decided to stop cleaning it and instead replaced it. That was about 30,000 miles ago and haven't had a problem since.
Of course, until you have more information from an OBD scan you really won't know what to repair. I've sometimes used the tool to get home when my car kept going nuts because of some sensor causing my engine power to be reduced. Believe me, I've been through it all with this car, but as of this very moment, all is well!
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I got it back from the dealership. First day it started with no problem but I did notice that the driver side is now blowing hot air while the passenger side blows cold air. Second day, after driving it I decided to let it run in the parking lot. It died on me and started after I let it cool down. Auto part's diagnostic showed Power Train System- Replace Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Canister Purge Control Value. I drove it to a shop and he did diagnostic & got code P0513 - Theft Deterrent Key Incorrect. I am meeting with the actual mechanic tomorrow to see my options. They seem like easy fix based on what I read online. Guess I will find out tomorrow. Fingers triple crossed.
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185 Posts
You can buy a OBD plug in off Amazon for about $15 and get a phone app and read your own codes. I do this anytime I get a CEL.
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Update: even with the information they still cannot figure out what is happening. Car has been there since Thursday. I read online that it could be my ECM, but my mechanic has not mentioned anything being wrong with the ECM.
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185 Posts
Chasing electrical problems is a nightmare. If they cannot figure it out they have access to a tech line to GM for consultation. That is what it took to fix my Malibu. $1400 later it was found the rear view mirror had a problem inside. The more electronics on cars, the more problems.
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185 Posts
The hot/cold issue is a blend door. They were $15 on my old Impala. On my 2008 Lucerne it was going to be $1500 to fix as the entire dash had to be removed. Careful what you buy.
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Replaced the blend door @ $220. It went 200 miles and then died again while driving. Was going to ask mechanic to replace ECM but he does not believe that will fix it. Said need to check all the wiring. Thinks it is electrical related. They are 2 weeks behind in repair.
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Update- After the car died for the 6th times (I stopped counting) and would not start like it normally did, they changed the PCM & Starter. I drove it for 500 miles now & for about a week with no issues. I hope this is it. Every mile that I add is a step closer to building up by confidence in this car. Fingers crossed but I think we got it.
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