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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well with all the talk in here about getting a non-factory tow wiring done I though I was going to have go to the dealer and pay big bucks.

Well that's not the case. I did it with a tail light converter that isolates the vehicles wiring from the trailer, I used a Hoppy 46365. I installed it in the back by where the tire jack is located, the left side light goes through a large grommet and that is where I ran all my wires through to get them to outside of the car. The left turn signal is a yellow wire, the park lights are a purple one, so I spliced into those ones on the inside. I had to run a power wire for the converter and the right turn signal wire over the bumper (so they wouldn't be seen) to the right side turn light it's a green wire and I had to splice into that up by the tail light. I ran the power wire over to where the factory wiring harness would have been plugged into and I picked up power from the red with a black stripe. To get to that plug I removed the right rear tire and removed the inner fender screws so I could get at the plug better, you will have pull two wire restraints out so it will be long enough to get it so you can work on it. You will need to add a fuse into the fuse block that is listed as trailer power, the Hoppy came with a 20 amp fuse so that is what I used under the hood. I stripped all wires that needed to be spliced into and soldered into them for a permanent connection, I never use the wire splices that they give you in these kits, you will have nothing but trouble in the future. The Hoppy kit came with a flat 4 connector I had to cut that off to get it through the grommet, I then soldered it back on at the hitch, I was going to install a 7 way but the one I got would fit like the factory one so this is good enough, after all I just need this to pull my Jetski and maybe my utility trailer so it will always be less that 2000#'s, if I need to pull more I have a full size 4x4 (GMC of course) Total cost not including my time about $62 + tax :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
In reality this wasn't very hard I just needed to find where I wanted to run my wires and install the converter unit, all you need to do this install is a good soldering iron, a 9/32 nut driver (to remove the tail lights) wire cutters, a Phillips screw driver, a sharp knife, tape and heat shrink tube (but you could get away without that). I started to do my testing for my install with a digital volt meter, not needed you just need a simple test light. This took me longer than it should have because I started to take apart all the wrong things (again over looking the obvious), all you need to do is remove the tail lights (2 screws each), take out the tire jack so you can work with the wires in there and remove the right back tire so you can get to where the factory wire harness would have hooked into if you had the towing package.
 

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Excellent work toyjunkie. Now I need to just figure out if I am going to do it by myself. I have already purchased the rear bumper insert for with the hitch. Now I just need the hitch and converter.

I'm trying to figure out which option is better for me.

1) I can order the hitch and wiring on-line and get both delivered to my door for about $170. Then I install the hitch and wiring myself.
2) I can drop it off at my dealer and they will install the hitch and wiring and charge me $225.

I am leaning towards #2 as if there are any mistakes, then they cover it. The extra money isn't fun to part with, but neither is the time. Either way, I will probably go this route with the converter and not change the fuse block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks GAR, well if the difference is only $50 I think I would get the dealer to do it (as long as they are going to solder the connection). I'm sure that now that I have done this and if I had to do it again it would take me about 2 hours max, including installing the hitch and if your dealer has done this many times I'm sure they could do it in less than that again (maybe 1 hour, if they do it the same way) I'm sure a hoist would make things easier too. In my case here no one has tried it, all the dealers that I talked to just gave me a blank look and said there isn't anything from GM to do this with, have you looked into the aftermarket? So with that in mind I didn't want anyone messing with it incase there were any problems and if there was being the fact that I installed this I can easily take it back out if I have any issues back there. I might go get the factory 7 pin and add that just to give it the factory look, plus those flat 4 connectors aren't the best seems they get full corrosion really fast and need to be replace every couple of years.
 

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Nice job Toyjunkie! I've upgraded my fuse box (warrranty), got the hitch on, but now having issue with factory harness. I need a 5-flat connector to the trailer - which has backup lights - and the standard non-tow package harness didn't have all the wires I need. I was able to get a part # for the harness (think it was even you that provided it) but GM Partsdirect says it's unavailable. Did you need to order the upgraded harness, or did your Acadia come with 7? wires? If you needed the harness with more wires I'd be curious where you got it. My GM dealer says they can't get one either ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Everything that I needed to wire mine up I got after market and the only thing that I used was the light converter from Hoppy. I think you will need to get the factory harness and 7 pin plug. Then remove your plug on your trailer and wire on a 7 to match the factory one you added to your Acadia. I stole power from the factory plug and added the fuse in the pictures so it would power the light converter. The only extra wire that I needed was about 7' of green wire to go to the right side tail light and I ran that with power wire that came with the Hoppy kit. I ran the power and right turn signal wires above the bumper looping them around the wires for the backup sensors so they wouldn't fall down and get in the way. So if you were to look up by my bumper all you see is the wire coming down with the flat 4 plug on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I have towed all summer with my setup and not once have there been any issues with my Acadia. I have backed into the water many times to launch my ski, never unhooked the lights and it just keeps on working. I have yet to add my trans cooler but so far my jetski has been the only thing that I have towed so weight hasn't been an issue.

:cheers:
 

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I know I am pulling up an old thread here, but it seemed to be appropriate.

I am finally on the verge of ordering the hitch and wiring harness and just found that there is now a really nice wiring harness with connectors and a video instruction. If interested, check this out. http://www.etrailer.com/pc-VWH~118451.htm
CAUTION: The one thing that concerns me about this harness is that it does not seem to have Modulite Circuit Protection like this one http://www.etrailer.com/p-119176.htm that they originally had listed. I called their tech team and they said that they originally recommended that one to be on the safe side, but after the engineers looked into it, this new designed harness is correct and will work. I think I am going to give it a shot. The video is great.
They also have a hitch install video as well. http://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-gmc-acadia.aspx
 

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vogelm1 said:
Nice job Toyjunkie! I've upgraded my fuse box (warrranty), got the hitch on, but now having issue with factory harness. I need a 5-flat connector to the trailer - which has backup lights - and the standard non-tow package harness didn't have all the wires I need. I was able to get a part # for the harness (think it was even you that provided it) but GM Partsdirect says it's unavailable. Did you need to order the upgraded harness, or did your Acadia come with 7? wires? If you needed the harness with more wires I'd be curious where you got it. My GM dealer says they can't get one either ???
Did you also have the back-up light mod done , as per the tsb ?
I believe after doing so, the center pin will be for back up circuit.



"It is necessary to modify the backup lamp circuit. Perform this procedure only if the customer will be using the vehicle to tow.
Disconnect the X7 connector from the Body Control Module (BCM).
Remove the terminal for pin 3 from the BCM X7 connector. The wire to this terminal is dark blue and is the 38 circuit.
Re-connect the X7 connector to the BCM.
Cut the terminal off the end of this wire and strip the end of the wire.
Splice this wire into the 24 circuit wire that goes into BCM connector X6, pin 2. The 24 circuit is light green.
 

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road-e said:
Did you also have the back-up light mod done , as per the tsb ?
I believe after doing so, the center pin will be for back up circuit.



"It is necessary to modify the backup lamp circuit. Perform this procedure only if the customer will be using the vehicle to tow.
Disconnect the X7 connector from the Body Control Module (BCM).
Remove the terminal for pin 3 from the BCM X7 connector. The wire to this terminal is dark blue and is the 38 circuit.
Re-connect the X7 connector to the BCM.
Cut the terminal off the end of this wire and strip the end of the wire.
Splice this wire into the 24 circuit wire that goes into BCM connector X6, pin 2. The 24 circuit is light green.
I don't believe this was done (it was supposed to be when the new fuse panel went in) because when I disconnected the harness in the right rear wheel well and tested it with a probe, I didn't get it to light. I'd really like to do this jumper wire thing myself...had the BCM out but there are some many wires/circuits I didn't know what was what. If I knew what the X7, X6, etc pins were I'd have no issues doing it.
 

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What a pain A?
Here in SC were not even required to have trailer lights, unless trailer or load blocks the vehicles lights.
 

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road-e said:
What a pain A?
Here in SC were not even required to have trailer lights, unless trailer or load blocks the vehicles lights.
Interesting?
 

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jsimms said:
Interesting?
Its the same way here in texas, as long as you can see the vehicles tail lights you are ok.
 

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Is there a max length for trailers?

Scenario: You're cruising along and it's dark with a 10 ft trailer and the guy behind you sees your Acadia brake lights, but fails to realize (or see) the 10ft trailer behind you and wham..............
 

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Most states have their laws online for reference. AZ is no different:
Title 28

Additional lighting requirements

4. On a trailer or semitrailer with a gross weight of more than three thousand pounds:

(a) On the front, two clearance lamps, one at each side.

(b) On each side, two side marker lamps, one at or near the front and one at or near the rear. Vehicles that exceed thirty feet in length shall have a third side marker lamp at the midpoint between the front and rear marker lamps.

(c) On each side, two reflectors, one at or near the front and one at or near the rear. Vehicles that exceed thirty feet in length shall have a third reflector at the midpoint between the front and rear reflectors.

(d) On the rear, two clearance lamps, one at each side, and two reflectors, one at each side, and two stoplights.

6. On a trailer, semitrailer or pole trailer with a gross weight of three thousand pounds or less:

(a) On the rear, two reflectors, one on each side.

(b) Two stoplights on a trailer or semitrailer if it is loaded in such a manner or is of such dimensions as to obscure the stoplight on the towing vehicle.


Also:
28-925. Tail lamps

A. A motor vehicle, trailer, semitrailer and pole trailer and any other vehicle that is being drawn at the end of a train of vehicles shall be equipped with at least one tail lamp mounted on the rear. When lighted as required by this article, the tail lamp shall emit a red light plainly visible from a distance of five hundred feet to the rear, except that in the case of a train of vehicles, only the tail lamp on the rearmost vehicle need actually be seen from the distance specified.

B. A tail lamp on a vehicle shall be located at a height of not more than sixty inches nor less than fifteen inches to be measured as provided in section 28-923, subsection B.

C. Either a tail lamp or a separate lamp shall be constructed and placed in a manner that illuminates with a white light the rear license plate and renders it clearly legible from a distance of fifty feet to the rear. A tail lamp or tail lamps together with any separate lamp for illuminating the rear license plate shall be wired to provide that the tail lamp or lamps are lighted whenever the head lamps or auxiliary driving lamps are lighted.


Length: It is lengthy ;), so I just linked it.
 

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Thanks Blue :thumb:
 

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I had the dealer install the hitch and wiring. They had to replace the fuse block but it works great now. My problem:
I'm looking at purchasing a new boat and the trailer has surge brakes with the five pin trailer hookup. My current set up is only has four wires. Is it possible for me to add the additional wire so I can back this boat up without locking up the trailer brakes which I have read will happen if your wiring assembly doesn't have the five wire to deactivate the surge brakes when your back up lights come on? Any help on this would be appreciate. I haven't brought it back to the dealer yet
 

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The fuse block is the key to a successful install for the trailer package; is is possible to get a boat trailer that has four pins instead of five? I am not that knowledgeable about trailers or boats
 

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hortman64 said:
I had the dealer install the hitch and wiring. They had to replace the fuse block but it works great now. My problem:
I'm looking at purchasing a new boat and the trailer has surge brakes with the five pin trailer hookup. My current set up is only has four wires. Is it possible for me to add the additional wire so I can back this boat up without locking up the trailer brakes which I have read will happen if your wiring assembly doesn't have the five wire to deactivate the surge brakes when your back up lights come on? Any help on this would be appreciate. I haven't brought it back to the dealer yet
If the dealer replaced the fuse block, you should have had them make sure the harness in the rear had all the wires in it. If not, it needs to be replaced. There is also a bulletin that states how to move the backup wire to the correct position on the BCM so that power will be applied to the surge brakes to deactivate them. GM really missed the boat on this one as far as trailering goes.
 

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Well, I guess the first thing tomorrow, I'll be going to my dealer and see what they can do for me about this wire. I've looked at other GMC vehicles and all of them have the same plug as I have in the rear (the round one that you get an adapter for) but in all of these (Suburban, Tahoes and Avalance), they have the fifth wire connect to the plug. Perhaps they just didn't pull this one for me--I'll see tomorrow. Thanks for the response. I'll let you know what they say.
 
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