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I was stupid and went and bought another Acadia this time I have the 2012 Acadia Denali it has now 186000 miles and honestly has been nothing but trouble since I've had it I have a list of issues but I'm just needing help on the more major and most recent problems if any one has any guidance other than get a new vehicle which I can not afford at all now I'll gladly take all I can get so to start off I'll number the issues and when replying just state which answer is for which issue or if they are related also these codes I get with the code reader are these, PO442, PO496 so to start with the list of major repairs I need help with #1 the A/C quit working 1st it would sorta work where it would blow only in the back with air and it being cold and would start occasionally to blow from the front and being cold then it got to be only the rear would blow which now it's still just the rear vents but it's never cold just hot air or air comes out the defrost vent will not work nor any front Vents and when it's raining I cant see anything from the car being fogged up so much #2 the head lights flicker and cut off at night it's a major hazard #3 the car doesn't crank right away I have to insert the key take it out reinsert it repeatedly hoping that it will crank eventually this has just started about a month ago and getting worse I have checked the battery which is good and the key when inserted and turned to crank has the dash lights and everything coming on as Norman it's just the part where the key telling the vehicle to turn over and crank that's not connecting it seems I can hear the starter I have and then is nothing not a clank or anything sometimes I can get in and it starts right up no problem other times I am there 10-15 minutes trying #4 now the service traction control off service stabilizer now flashed on the dash and my check engine is flashing this started yesterday during a very cold rain storm the vehicle also seems to feel like it's lost power and doesn't want to go or it's struggling to go forward or accelerate. These are my most major concerns I have a few minor that I'll list Incase they may be connected to something else in some way #5 the DVD/video screen player doesn't work it will not come on and it doesn't read any disk, #6 the seats that are supposed to heat in the front don't hear and the drivers side doesn't go forward when trying to move it
 

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A flashing check engine light is not a good thing. Some suggest you don't even drive a vehicle with a flashing CEL.

I suspect you now have more trouble codes than those you mentioned.

Have you had a dealer look at your issues? P0442 and P0496 should be pretty easy to resolve..
 

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#5 is Limp mode. First time it happened to my 2012 was a few years ago. Brought it to a GM guy running his own business and my total bill was under $100.00. There was one bad spark plug. Just happened again a couple weeks ago but has since worked itself out. I'm still going to have it checked in the new year. 245,000 KM on mine.
#1 could be a leak in the line losing your refrigerant. I had my rear AC blocked off years ago because of a leak and just this past summer had to have the plugged lines cut and re-plugged again to get the front working.

Good luck.
 

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You can google those codes and find out what they are. Cars do not get better. The longer you leave it in a state of disrepair the worse things will get. Just take it to a reputable mechanic and have it repaired. I have a 2012 Denali with 178K and runs perfect. Since you are not driving a new car, I assume this one is paid off. You should have money saved up for repairs. They don't run on air. $2000 in the bank for maintaining and repairs, $2000 for an emergency fund. You can't just keep driving something until it quits or blows. Take care of your vehicle.
 

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You certainly don't need a Denali. They are loaded with electronics and expensive to maintain. Get a nice Impala from 2010 - 13. Boring car but will run forever and cheap to repair. This will hold you until you get more money saved up.
 

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You certainly don't need a Denali. They are loaded with electronics and expensive to maintain. Get a nice Impala from 2010 - 13. Boring car but will run forever and cheap to repair. This will hold you until you get more money saved up.
Too late I think.
She already bought the Acadia awhile ago and now has issues.
Plus. .. because of spending it on the Acadia - --
Quote She Said . . . " And no I haven't had anyone nor a dealership look at it I am broke and don't have the money to have it serviced if I brought it to a dealership "
 

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Well if she is that broke she better start working two jobs. Who buys a Denali with no money in the bank? I think she was being drastic. She probably has the money but doesn't want to spend it on an SUV. Most women drive them until they won't run anymore. Hopefully she has a credit card she can pay on to get it fixed. Don't believe everything you read.
 

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Well if she is that broke she better start working two jobs. Who buys a Denali with no money in the bank? I think she was being drastic. She probably has the money but doesn't want to spend it on an SUV. Most women drive them until they won't run anymore. Hopefully she has a credit card she can pay on to get it fixed. Don't believe everything you read.
I believe a lot of people these days are in the same boat.
They needed a newer or different vehicle because the last one they had wore out.
both the used car and new care inventories are low to non existent if you look around even in large metro areas.
A lot of used vehicles and high mileage ones, rentals, etc that only the auction resellers would handle now end up on the Chevy, GMC, Ford, etc lots . . . they are selling the kind of second rate cars that before 2020 would be sold on the bottom tier "Bargain Joe" lots.
So a buyer who is certainly desperate because their previous vehicle died. . . now buys one of the many worn out vehicles that is there because there is not much out there and many dealers and especially independents sell less than reliable rides.

Even women like our unmarried school teacher daughter (with no kids) making mid to upper $40K a year has gotten taken.
By the time, mortgage (or rent), utilities, insurance (health, home and car), food , etc are paid for . . there is not much in the bank after making a $10,000 to $20,000 purchase for a used vehicle.
Indeed . .. don't beleive everything you read about how great the economy is doing for half the people in the U.S.A.
 

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To directly address your questions:
  1. The AC issues could be two-fold; if it doesn't blow cold then you may have a leak somewhere (my 2011 once had a bad condenser causing this), and the inability to choose flow direction could be a bad actuator.
  2. Flickering headlights could be a number of things, like a bad relay or corroded fuse box connections.
  3. The no cranking when key is turned could be a failing ignition switch.
  4. Flashing CEL and various errors/codes requires a comprehensive inspection.
  5. Heated seats and DVD player sound like secondary issues that perhaps can wait.
All this points to the need for a qualified mechanic's inspection. I know you said money is tight - perhaps an independent shop can give you a reasonable price for a look-over and code diagnosis. This really is the only way forward. #2 and 3 are dangerous and merit immediate attention.

Tom
 

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I believe a lot of people these days are in the same boat. They needed a newer or different vehicle because the last one they had wore out. both the used car and new care inventories are low to non existent if you look around even in large metro areas. A lot of used vehicles and high mileage ones, rentals, etc that only the auction resellers would handle now end up on the Chevy, GMC, Ford, etc lots . . . they are selling the kind of second rate cars that before 2020 would be sold on the bottom tier "Bargain Joe" lots. So a buyer who is certainly desperate because their previous vehicle died. . . now buys one of the many worn out vehicles that is there because there is not much out there and many dealers and especially independents sell less than reliable rides. Even women like our unmarried school teacher daughter (with no kids) making mid to upper $40K a year has gotten taken. By the time, mortgage (or rent), utilities, insurance (health, home and car), food , etc are paid for . . there is not much in the bank after making a $10,000 to $20,000 purchase for a used vehicle. Indeed . .. don't beleive everything you read about how great the economy is doing for half the people in the U.S.A.
We’ll I have the money to fix my GMC Arcadia Denali, and don’t want to pay the exorbitant prices the dealership charges. Denali is supposed to be too of top line in GMC automotive products. My 2017 (bought new, paid over 65k) has been one problem after another from back window leaking, a knock in steering, back hatch filling up with water, rims peeling, leathers seats wearing out and a thermostat going out at 35k miles (have to take to dealership, due to them having the only tool to remove fuel rails) so I can’t relate to the lady who says she doesn’t have the money. This vehicle is the biggest POS I’ve every bought and I don’t recommend it to anyone. As professional grade ha, I don’t see it.
 

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...Denali is supposed to be too of top line in GMC automotive products. My 2017 (bought new, paid over 65k) has been one problem after another from back window leaking, a knock in steering, back hatch filling up with water, rims peeling, leathers seats wearing out and a thermostat ...As professional grade ha, I don’t see it.
Keep in mind, a Denali only differs in luxury add-ons. Other than different wheels, all the problems you had are built identical across the models.
On the fuel rail removal, if you're handy I'm sure the tool is available to buy.
 

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Keep in mind, a Denali only differs in luxury add-ons. Other than different wheels, all the problems you had are built identical across the models.
On the fuel rail removal, if you're handy I'm sure the tool is available to buy.
Amazing how many buy into Denali trim being something special, not realizing it's built on the same assembly line as an SLE or SLT.

I'm also quite certain GMC dealers don't have a monopoly on fuel rail removal tools.
 

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Amazing how many buy into Denali trim being something special, not realizing it's built on the same assembly line as an SLE or SLT.

I'm also quite certain GMC dealers don't have a monopoly on fuel rail removal tools.
So you’re telling me that Goodyear, Firestone, and several other auto mechanics would have that tool for the fuel rail. Well I’d been to them and they didn’t have the tool. They stated GMC specific tool. So I’ll throw the bs flag on you last comment.
As for the Denali trademark, it’s branded as a better class vehicle (ie Upgrade) even though they are made on the same assembly line. That’s why they charge a premium for the Denali name.
 

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So you’re telling me that Goodyear, Firestone, and several other auto mechanics would have that tool for the fuel rail. Well I’d been to them and they didn’t have the tool. They stated GMC specific tool. So I’ll throw the bs flag on you last comment.
As for the Denali trademark, it’s branded as a better class vehicle (ie Upgrade) even though they are made on the same assembly line. That’s why they charge a premium for the Denali name.
They wouldn't have the specialty tools if they decided not to invest in them. They are readily available. You need the OTC 6706 rail removal tool and the Kent-Moore en-49247 retaining clip installer tool.

Under the badging, an Acadia is an Acadia. However, GM has done a great job convincing some it is somehow different.
 

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Available to mortal man, not just GM dealers.

Tom
Amazing how many buy into Denali trim being something special, not realizing it's built on the same assembly line as an SLE or SLT.

I'm also quite certain GMC dealers don't have a monopoly on fuel rail removal tools.
Actually, removing the fuel rail nor the tool for it, is not necessary to install a new thermostat and ECT sensor or some other things.
It is a little fussy but there is at least one video that show how to do it with only removing the intake manifold and moving a few other things.
 

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Actually, removing the fuel rail nor the tool for it, is not necessary to install a new thermostat and ECT sensor or some other things.
It is a little fussy but there is at least one video that show how to do it with only removing the intake manifold and moving a few other things.
But things are always easier with the right tools......plus if one is a tool junky like me, you can never have enough tools or you can vent about having to take your vehicle to the dealer :)
 

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If you have the money then enjoy. Just more gadgets on it. But I never buy new. My 2012 Denali was over $50K new. I paid $3900 for it. Left me a lot of room to fix things. I have about $6500 in it now, and almost perfect, including a new Kenwood head unit so I can have maps and Spotify. I love this thing, even though I realize how much there is to break on it. But I am into it so cheap I don't care. AWD too.
 
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