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I got a message saying my post was being reviewed by a moderator before going live. That was my reference. I understand the reason (to prevent a bunch of riff raff) but wasn't aware of it. most of the other forums I'm on these days just having people spewing at the mouth. All good from here...
 

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And to answer your question, yes I did do current measurements. One meter in parallel (Fluke 87V) and another meter in series (Fluke 87V). I had right at 200 milliamps (.2 Amps) in my circuit sized by resistors I had on hand with a 12 VDC nominal wall wart (15 VDC open circuit voltage with 1 Amp nominal output). The switch wasn't heating or showing any signs of applying too much voltage/current.
sigh. . .. Great info about switches which I already know. . . but not what I was asking.

My back ground is +30 years in electronics for GM/AC Delco and I mentioned that in the previous Post #10.
I understood way back in your initial posts what you are saying about wiping the contacts.

What I was asking regarding current measure measurement was what I asked in Post #12 below. Actual in circuit current while in the shifter.

Meaning. . . actual in circuit testing of what current the switch is handling. Without knowing that, then any hypothesis could be going in the wrong direction. . . ie. . that tiny switch may be handling too much current. Else, why would GM design and advise Techs to insert the "adaptor" in series with the circuit as show in the TSB?
Are you aware of the TSB and the wire harness adaptor included in it as part of the attempted fix?
TSB LINK - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10166630-9999.pdf
TechLink Article - Intermittent Shift to Park Message – TechLink

" POST # 12 - Hoping it isn't too late. . . but if you still have the shifter apart, could you measure the actual current draw of the Park Switch circuit when it is closed and sinking to ground? That would tell us if the switch is handling , perhaps, more current draw and arcing than the switch was designed for.
I suppose you could maybe simulate any arcing by checking "make and break" using the jumper you were using and see if there is a sizable vizable arc when that is done.
Also, wondering, if the switch is also handling an inductive load (relay or small solenoid?) rather than just a signal level.
If so, that could wreak havoc with arcing of the contacts. "
 
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Agree. . looks like one of those is similar to the shifter switch. Saw the specs. . . . still not certain the same would not happen as the factory switch, since we really do not know what the factory switch spec is.

Need to verify actual in-circuit current through the switch in use to head in the right direction. Otherwise. . guessing.

But another step in the right direction. As long as a replacement switch would be more durable.


Technology Space Plastic Automotive window part Silver Product Circuit component Technology Electronic component Light

The root cause of the Shift To Park message - - - -
The Acadia has the same shifter as the Chevrolet Traverse in the video below - - -


 

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This has been covered on the Volt EV area with the same issue . . . . same switch.

Per the data sheet, overtravel (the distance the lever moves from the switch-on position to its final resting position) should be 2.5mm or less. It appears to be 3mm or more on the shifter. There in it seems that this excessive overtravel contributes to switch wear or damage and ultimately switch failure. An easy preventative fix is to bend the lever a little so that only enough movement is accomplished to initiate the snap action in the switch itself without resulting in damaging repetitive over travel.

The way the Micro Switch is installed in the shifter from the factory, the actuator button/plunger on the switch is being pressed into the switch body and acting as a stop for the lever. Too much unnecessary force and over travel.

2017 Volt "Shift to park" RCA and permanent fix

Original Switch Lever - - Reformed Switch Lever
Wire Composite material Cable Electrical wiring Machine Musical instrument accessory Gadget Machine Carbon
 

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Just to add some info. .
Based on the previous links provided by a Chevrolet Volt owner who made this repair, I agree with his findings and based on the switch specifications. . . that the switch likely fails due too excessive over travel the way it was installed in the shifter. This very small micro switch only requires about 2mm of movement to make the switch connection.

The lever on the factory installed switch is completely straight, which causes excessive force and movement of the lever much more than needed and causing 2 to +3mm over travel. In other words, in the Acadia Shifter, the shifter smashes the lever much further into the switch body than needed eventually damaging the internal switch contacts. In time, it fails.
VID_20190726_185424781.mp4
VID_20190727_092958355.mp4
The fix is to both install a new switch and form the lever as shown in the pictures below. This allows the switch to still make the connection, and allows only about 1.5mm of overtravel without excessive compression.
At any rate, whatever the reason for the micro switch failure, this repair will resolve the issue for anyone out of warranty who is able to DIY.

I ordered 3 Omron D2HW-BL221H switches from mouser for about $17 with fast shipping.
According to the Omron data sheet, the factory and replacement switch have gold alloy contacts as do many in the same data sheet. Since the "AQ" version seems it can only be found on a Chinese "Ali*****" website, I opted to order from U.S. Mouser for the hinged version of the switch. The same as the factory, but is not the "leaf" lever type.
It fits and is exactly the same measurement. For $4 or so .. .. is low cost insurance for anyone wishing to delve in and have on hand for a DIY repair.

BTW. . . Ford Edge and some other vehicles have had the same issue with the same kind of switch.
Shift to Park Warning when it's in Park

Below are pictures of the original switch in position and then the replacement hinged switch. It fits exactly and has the same specs.



Purple Machine Steel Machine gun Engineering Machine Watch Steel

Also. . .. a GIF showing the excessive over travel of the switch lever compared to the modified formed lever.
Carbon Machine Motorcycle accessories Gadget Tool
 

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I wonder how much of the failure is caused by the switch and how much of it is caused by the switch's operator? I've seen too many times where parts have failed because people are PRESSING a button instead of gently 'pressing' it. Electronic "gadgets" can only take so much abuse - either intentional, or incidental.
 

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I wonder how much of the failure is caused by the switch and how much of it is caused by the switch's operator? I've seen too many times where parts have failed because people are PRESSING a button instead of gently 'pressing' it. Electronic "gadgets" can only tke so much abuse - either intentional, or incidental.
Agree that many times is an issue. . but that is not the case here.

The switch is not operated by anyone pressing on it. A spring and plunger in the shifter moves the lever upward as the shifter is moved to park and released. The upward movement of the shifter spring applies the movement and force. The movement is excessive overtravel and force made by the shifter when placed into park . . . not a driver.
If you view the linked videos it reveals the operation.
The vendor should have looked at the Omron specs more closely and assured that there was no excessive over travel when operated.
It surprises me that this small switch is used when other shifters use a larger more robust switch.
 

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Thanks so much for the detailed analysis. On the Acadia 2017-2019 is it possible to to access and replace the switch without removing the entire shifter assembly?

I know the following has to occur:
1. Unclip console trimplate
2. Remove shifter knob
3. Remove console trimplate

  • Anyone have a video they recommend of the process?
  • Remove passenger side panel?

I found a few online referencing the Malibu as well as an Acadia one where they removed the entire floor console (little more involved). I feel comfortable doing most of it but would prefer not removing the entire floor console. Also it is good to know where any clips or fasteners are to ideally avoid breaking them when prying.
 

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On my '18, the dealer replaced the shifter assembly in less than an hour. Pretty sure they did not remove the entire console.
 

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Thanks so much for the detailed analysis. On the Acadia 2017-2019 is it possible to to access and replace the switch without removing the entire shifter assembly?
  • Anyone have a video they recommend of the process?
  • Remove passenger side panel?

I found a few online referencing the Malibu as well as an Acadia one where they removed the entire floor console (little more involved). I feel comfortable doing most of it but would prefer not removing the entire floor console. Also it is good to know where any clips or fasteners are to ideally avoid breaking them when prying.
I have not seen a detailed procedure on whether the park position switch is accessible on the 2017-19 Acadia without at least some console disassembly.

From what I see, it would just be a bit fussy to get at, but not difficult.
I don't believe it would be necessary to remove the shifter to just replace the switch. But the console would need some disassembly.

I've searched for several months and the best video I've seen is one for Traverse.
My Acadia is still working ok with no Shift To Park error, but when the weather gets warmer here I was thinking of at least going through how to get at the switch.
From what I have read, the switch can not be accessed without some console removal since the insides and cup holders of the console are too deep and hinder any work space needed.
In viewing the Traverse video. . it appears to me that just lifting the console top upward after unclipping, may give enough room to remove and replace the switch without disconnecting all the wire harness connectors mentioned.

This video seems like it would be pretty close to what needs to be done for Acadia as well as the Traverse.

 

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Thanks for the info and quick reply. Yes I agree that Traverse video is done well and hopefully should be very close to the same process.
 

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FYI, I purchased the switch from Mouser and attempted the install 2 weeks ago.

I got the shifter knob removed and trim plate as well as the side panels. However from my experience, on an Acadia it is not possible to remove the top cover without removing the entire center console. There is a clip under the USB ports that cannot be unclipped without the center console removed.

I ended up assembling back together and paid the $$$ to have the dealer repair. Most of the cost was in labor so I am pretty sure my theory on this is correct with center console removal. This time they did the switch + harness. Hopefully this fix finally lasts.

I called and opened a case with GMC Customer Care and got a credit for future service.
 

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FYI, I purchased the switch from Mouser and attempted the install 2 weeks ago.

I got the shifter knob removed and trim plate as well as the side panels. However from my experience, on an Acadia it is not possible to remove the top cover without removing the entire center console. There is a clip under the USB ports that cannot be unclipped without the center console removed.

I ended up assembling back together and paid the $$$ to have the dealer repair. Most of the cost was in labor so I am pretty sure my theory on this is correct with center console removal. This time they did the switch + harness. Hopefully this fix finally lasts.

I called and opened a case with GMC Customer Care and got a credit for future service.
Sorry you did not find the key to removing the top shifter cover. There are so many "Shift To Park" Threads. But the way to do it is outlined below and in the linked thread. That owner had a rattle that he wanted to repair.

There are 5 bolts on both sides of the console after the side panels are taken off that need to be unfastened.

Then the console needs to be slid backwards and the top of the console can then be removed.

Post # 48 in this thread explains what the owner found - - --

Center console buzz - how to get to base of shifter?

If you find you need to remove the shifter trim, start with the video that was posted above in this thread of a Traverse breakdown. Instead of lifting up on the trim, remove both side kick panels on the center tunnel. They use one 7mm screw and 3 metal snaps on each side.
Next there are 5 x 10mm bolts on each side of the tunnel holding the plastic structure to sheet metal. 3 are at the very front. 1 is center / you will need to move seat all the way back to access. One is at rear / seat will need moved fully forward.
Once those 10 bolts are removed (which is very quick and easy) you can slide the entire console rearward about 5”. That will allow the trim piece to easily lift without risk of damage and snapping.
In a Denali there are the following connectors to disengage before complete removal:
1. 2 seat heat/cool switches
2. Drive mode knob
3. 12v outlet
4. USB outlets
5. Hazard/ TC buttons
6. Gear shifter illumination
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
That video above is pretty, I've been meaning to just make a video of the whole process if y'all think that with help?
 

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It would for anyone wanting to DIY. I'd be interested.
 

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Thanks to everyone who researched this and posted information. I bought the D2HW-BL221H switch from Mouser and replaced it several days ago. It was a bit of a pain in the neck, but possible, once I learned that it is necessary to move the entire console back. I didn't disconnect anything other than the shift cable, and I was able to move the console just enough to get the top trim plate off (definitely more involved than the Traverse). After disconnecting the battery, I disconnected several of the connectors on the trim plate, but couldn't figure out a reasonable way to get the drive mode connector off. I was able to tilt the plate just enough to reach in and remove the switch. I tried unsuccessfully to de-solder the connections, but gave up and clipped the wires. There is very little extra length in the wires - just enough to strip about 1/8 inch and solder in the new switch. Before installing the switch, I bent the lever a bit to reduce the pressure on the switch. I put it all back together and so far no messages. I hope it lasts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Awesome! I'll have to get that switch.
In the mean time, I did make a start to finish video on how to remove the console and fix it with the bypass

 

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Awesome! I'll have to get that switch.
In the mean time, I did make a start to finish video on how to remove the console and fix it with the bypass
Thanks for posting ! Subscribed . . .

Very helpful and looking at it seems like an owner . . . with some dexterity . . . might even be able to replace the switch by pulling the plug you shorted and then unsoldering and replacing with a new switch. I would recommend a slight up bend on the switch lever to relieve the over travel that stresses the internals of the micro switch.
I thought the Molotov cocktail was a nice touch.
Also enjoyed the 355F1 videos. That car sounds . . and looks . .. . amazing.
 
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