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I have a 2011 Acadia. The AC went out and was the evap core. I replaced the evap core, charged the system, and everything was fine. Now, we want the heat to work, but the blend doors fro the front or stuck in the cold position. The mode actuator works fine and switches the air output to where ever I direct it to. The temp for both driver and passenger won't move. I have unscrewed both actuators and watched them electrically work. the blend door though, I can't get it to turn by hand. How do i get this unstuck? There is heat in the rear, and the heater core is hot as it should be. Just can't get the temp blend door to move so it won't change the air temp.
 

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bobdabuildr said:
... How do i get this unstuck? ...
If you type "blend door" in the forum search box, you'll find at least 3 pages of discussion where folks talk about what they have used - from fingers, to pliers, to well-placed blows with a BFH. :hilarious: There are also good write-ups (some with pictures) on how to replace one should you find the need to do that.
 

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I am sure you meant well, but I did search the forums before posting. I searched for blend door as well as multiple variants of that phrase. You are right, there are 3 pages concerning the blend door. The problem they had was the actuator and that would be an easy fix. A few other people mentioned it was not the actuator and nobody was able to offer any help besides to say "take it to the dealer."

A BFH is not getting the doors unstuck. I can get a 10 mm open end wrench on the white coupling piece that the actuator connects to and in turn connects to the gear of the blend door and attempt to manually actuate the door. It won't budge. I tried prying it with a flat tip screwdriver. Still won't budge. Besides removing the HVAC unit and opening it up to unstick the doors, does anyone have a trick to correct this problem? If there is a thread that addresses the issue, please direct me to it directly. This problem is on both the driver and passenger side. Both doors are stuck in full cold.
 

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Not too many folks DIY much with regard to HVAC work in the dash. Did the blend door work before you took the dash apart to replace the evaporator? If it did, fixing the door might require some backtracking to get it to work properly. :shrug: Also, might want to try some of the other Lambda forums to see if there's a discussion about this.
 

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I had it stripped to the firewall. I am guessing when I disassembled the HVAC module to replace the evap core, I installed it in such aI really don't want to pull the dash again, but it seems that is the only way. It was a 6+ hr job pulling it and a bit longer installing it.

I fix electronics and HVAC systems on jet planes that are way more complicated than this car, yet the Lambda has kicked my butt.
 

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I had it stripped to the firewall. I am guessing when I disassembled the HVAC module to replace the evap core, I installed it in such aI really don't want to pull the dash again, but it seems that is the only way. It was a 6+ hr job pulling it and a bit longer installing it.

I fix electronics and HVAC systems on jet planes that are way more complicated than this car, yet the Lambda has kicked my butt.
I know it has been awhile but did you figure this out? I went through the same process as you and now have the same issue with the door being stuck. Was thinking about trying to reach some of the screws that hold the two halves together and loosen them or even just try cutting the side of the casing off and reattach with brackets! Really don't want to pull apart again.
 

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Welcome to the forum, nlbailey.
The OP hasn't visited the forum in about 4 years. Good luck.
 

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He’s probably gonna come back with ... “I had to take it to the dealer ... not too bad ... $800”. LOL!

Maybe try a Dremel to cut out a small access panel - but exactly “where”, right? I remember on the TaurusCarClub forum a few years back people doing that to fix broken doors rather than pulling the dash apart. Fortunately for me, mine never got any worse than just replacing the cigarette-pack-sized actuator (which was bad enough contorting the body to remove those 4 screws).

Is it possible to test the operation of the door(s) after replacing the evap core, but while the “clamshell” box is still out of the dash? This seems like the step that’s missing here. Also - could it be possible that, upon reinstall, the box got distorted as it was coerced into place, jamming the door(s) inside? OR - could’ve it been possible that the two halves “looked” symmetrical, but really aren’t?

Sounds like you’re going to be going back in there (unfortunately). If you do, please take pictures to help future owners. Good Luck!
 

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Maybe try a Dremel to cut out a small access panel - but exactly “where”, right? I remember on the TaurusCarClub forum a few years back people doing that to fix broken doors rather than pulling the dash apart. Fortunately for me, mine never got any worse than just replacing the cigarette-pack-sized actuator (which was bad enough contorting the body to remove those 4 screws).

Is it possible to test the operation of the door(s) after replacing the evap core, but while the “clamshell” box is still out of the dash? This seems like the step that’s missing here. Also - could it be possible that upon reinstall the box got distorted as it was coerced into place, jamming the door(s) inside? OR - could’ve it been possible that the two halves “looked” symmetrical, but really aren’t?

Sounds like you’re going to be going back in there (unfortunately). If you do, please take pictures to help future owners. Good Luck!
Everything worked for me for months after fixing then just didn't. I'm guessing that it has to do with the warped casing that occurs... if I had known about it ahead of time I would have just changed it the first time!

My thoughts are to cut a hole in the side as you stated.. I'm up for cutting a LARGE hole if needed.. even the whole side. Could epoxy it back on or add some brackets/seals to open again if needed. Anything to save me taking it apart again. Worst case I mess it up and have to pull it all apart and replace anyways.

I definitely plan on photos this time, I think I may have some from last time but nothing extensive. Just to remember harness routing.
 

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What about locating one on car-part.com for an out-of-vehicle autopsy? You never know what you might stumble upon price-wise. I had been looking for a replacement OEM 5-poke steel rim for my son’s 2008 Malibu (he bent the lip and the air kept leaking out ... fast!). Local yard, known for outrageous pricing wanted $125 - even after I clearly explained exactly what we were talking about. 2nd yard had one, wanted $50, but sold it out from under me. Finally just located three for only $20 each! Didn’t want the tires, but when they turned out to be 2017 dates, not bad looking, and the guy wanted me to wait a half hour to remove them, I just took them too!

Maybe you can find a $20 blend door box, open it up, and find out how best to cut yours open to fix it (or create a manual way to switch it by season until you feel like tearing it all apart again to install your junkyard box)

UPDATE:

I see prices on car-part as low as $75, but after looking at an “exploded view” of this thing - the case (if I’m looking at the right one) has a very irregular shape to it. Where were you thinking of cutting it open ... near the “valves”?

Here’s another thought: I know “BobdaBuilder” seemed to indicate he removed both actuators and tested them externally to verify they both moved (and I assume you did the same), but could it be possible that one or both are out of calibration causing them to jam against each other? And maybe that’s why he wasn’t able to turn one manually (externally) ... because they have to be turned in order (now)?

-Just trying to think of any other possibilities to avoid ripping the dash apart again-

You’d think that if some plastic piece broke internally - either in one or both actuators OR inside the Blower Case, you’d hear some kind of noise.

And why haven’t the Actuator(s) burned out if they’re trying to turn a jammed or internally broken door (and it’s not moving at all)?
 

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What about locating one on car-part.com for an out-of-vehicle autopsy? You never know what you might stumble upon price-wise. I had been looking for a replacement OEM 5-poke steel rim for my son’s 2008 Malibu (he bent the lip and the air kept leaking out ... fast!). Local yard, known for outrageous pricing wanted $125 - even after I clearly explained exactly what we were talking about. 2nd yard had one, wanted $50, but sold it out from under me. Finally just located three for only $20 each! Didn’t want the tires, but when they turned out to be 2017 dates, not bad looking, and the guy wanted me to wait a half hour to remove them, I just took them too!

Maybe you can find a $20 blend door box, open it up, and find out how best to cut yours open to fix it (or create a manual way to switch it by season until you feel like tearing it all apart again to install your junkyard box)

UPDATE:

I see prices on car-part as low as $75, but after looking at an “exploded view” of this thing - the case (if I’m looking at the right one) has a very irregular shape to it. Where were you thinking of cutting it open ... near the “valves”?

Here’s another thought: I know “BobdaBuilder” seemed to indicate he removed both actuators and tested them externally to verify they both moved (and I assume you did the same), but could it be possible that one or both are out of calibration causing them to jam against each other? And maybe that’s why he wasn’t able to turn one manually (externally) ... because they have to be turned in order (now)?

-Just trying to think of any other possibilities to avoid ripping the dash apart again-

You’d think that if some plastic piece broke internally - either in one or both actuators OR inside the Blower Case, you’d hear some kind of noise.

And why haven’t the Actuator(s) burned out if they’re trying to turn a jammed or internally broken door (and it’s not moving at all)?
Well.. life happened and I haven’t been able to touch this yet... maybe partly because I don’t want to find out I have to tear it all apart again. But.. this weekend I’m going to try to figure out what needs to be done for sure. Hammers, holes, saws.. I’m going to try it all. Wish me luck!
 

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So last night I got the lower dash pulled apart on both sides and retraced my steps from the last time I was messing with it. Verified that both lower blend doors are jammed and that both the other actuators are working properly (mode and recirculation). As when using the hvac system I never get a change in temperature between heat on / AC on / just fan I also went ahead and verified that coolant is making it to the heater core and it is getting hot, I still need to test the AC to make sure it is functioning properly. It appears whatever position it is stuck in must be blocking both? I don't completely understand how the flow works in these systems.. It's not hard to see why the HVAC casing can warp with the heater core sitting so close to the blend doors... maybe this is a normal design, but it seems like a poor one.

Tried using a hammer to free them, tried cranking on the actuator adapters to free them, loosened casing screws in the areas to try to loosen it enough to budge.. no go. They are both stuck good. Looks like on the driver side I might have enough room to try to drill a hole around where the actuator goes into the blend door. At this point if I can drill a hole to completely access the blend door and free it on one side that will work for me. I really just want to verify if it is the blend door only or a bigger issue.

Plan on looking into it more on Saturday.
 

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Well.. broke the actuator adapter while putting as much force on it as I could to try breaking the blend door free. Looks like I'll be tearing it apart. Probably be a month or so before this happens but will take pics as I work through it. I have a faulty seat heater so I may work on that at the same time as well. Will make a new thread when the time comes and post a link here for reference.
 

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Well.. broke the actuator adapter while putting as much force on it as I could to try breaking the blend door free.
Yeah ... usually when excessive force is needed you reach that "fork in the road" where you either back off, or something breaks.

Enjoy the "experience". It probably won't be as bad as you think.
 
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