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TripleClamp said:
We've been lucky then with all the cars we've owned then ...
Guess you have. Last misfire I experienced on my own car (not the Acadia) was a leaky plug wire. In low light, the spark could be seen arcing from the side of the wire into the engine. Had a few coil-over-plug coil packs go bad on Chrysler 300s and Lincoln TownCars, too. Stuff happens!
 

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That happened to me last year. Same message on display, and the brake lights stay on. Disconnected battery, removed brake switch from brake pedal, sprayed with contact cleaner. Been off ever since.
 

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That happened to me last year. Same message on display, and the brake lights stay on. Disconnected battery, removed brake switch from brake pedal, sprayed with contact cleaner. Been off ever since.
Have this happen every once in awhile. 100% of the time for me its the brake pedal switch. The little tang that is on the switch somehow gets jammed on the brake pedal itself and all i have to do is go under and put the switch back in alignment. Immediately fixes all those errors.
 

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Had the same problem traction control off, etc. my solution lasted and was perfect and weirdly enough replace your master flow sensor or just clean it like I did and problem is done. If your sensor reads that you're running too rich which happens to Acadias you can get this problem.
 

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Had the same problem traction control off, etc. my solution lasted and was perfect and weirdly enough replace your master flow sensor or just clean it like I did and problem is done. If you're running too rich which happens to Acadias you can get this problem.
Good suggestion.

Cleaning the MAF sensor is surely a good first step. But there are also other parts of the systems that may also contribute or be the cause(s) of this kind of failure. Others may have to delve a bit more into their particular cause.
 

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Starting here, because I'm clueless as to where else to start...

2010 Acadia SLT - 120k miles

I started having issues with the same (Service Stabiltrak, Service Traction Control, Traction Control Off) along with some others, like my Remote Start just stopped working (the same time as the Service S, TC warnings came up), and Service Air Bag. I didn't notice any really weird things when driving, other than ONLY when I turned left it would get a really odd ... Airy ... sound to it.

Ran the codes, only one that popped up was the MAF sensor. Made plans to address the issue, but before the weekend came around I started getting rough driving, the engine would stutter randomly, for a few days, then nothing for a few days... ending with a crank no start on a Friday after work. It would TRY to start, but just sounded whiny and not fully into committing to the start.

That evening it was looked out by a knowledgeable friend... who discovered oil in the intake, MAF. Had it towed the next morning to where it now sits. The spark plugs were all horribly fouled. Replaced all those, and the MAF sensor. Hooked everything back up, Still Crank no Start. Just doing a little trouble-shooting, we discovered that if we pulled off the Purge Valve it would start, roughly, but die after a second or two. I (through my sub par research decided it needed a new TB so I got one). We could hear/feel the new one working (whereas the old one wasn't), and it would start, just not stay on.

It sounds like the timing is off, and the new code that popped up is P0336, and the Service Stabiltrak/Traction Control Off messages have gone away. Service Airbag is still there. (the plan is to test/change the crankshaft position sensor - I just have a feeling that won't help and I'll just end up having to try to diagnose another possible reason my car won't start and/or stay running).

OH! I forgot... there is an obvious drain on my battery. The battery is good. I had to charge it over night (due to the drain), it held a charge all day, I then took it to where I bought it from for them to do a load test, they tested it with 3 different battery testers (the last being called "The battery Killer") and it tested good. 886 cranking amps I think with the Battery Killer. I took it home, hooked it up, it cranked/started for 2 secs before it died out. It sounded like my lawnmower when I run out of gas. (No other way to describe it). It has that 'fading' engine die. AND!! (another thing I forgot to mention) My GAS drops quick. I was one line above half a tank in the AM, drove it less than 3 miles and it was on half a tank when I got int it again. Apparently, attempting to start it multiple times (though, not really all that much) over the past week has used a lot of gas, (or it's just not gauging correctly?) because its in between 1/2 and 1/4 now.

I've tried to research... A LOT... and all I've found is a million different possible reasons with just as many possible solutions. So I thought I'd try actually posting to see if one of you Gurus could offer ideas/suggestions - other than taking it to the dealer.
Try the ignition coils! I had the same problem.
 

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I know this is an old tread but I have been having these same problems lately and I stumbled across the solution quite by accident. I'll leave this here and hope that it will help someone else. Because this is the first thread that pops up when you search for traction control stabilitrac problem.

 

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Pull you floor mats out of the passenger side and pull the carpet back and see if there is water under it if there is you most likely have water in the fuse block under the passenger side dash it will cause all those problems when you turn left and it shuts the water around you are getting water intrusion from the cowling under the hood or stopped up sun roof draine if applicable. Or a bad windshield replacement
 
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