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MY 2018 GMC Acadia recently had the "shift to park" issue described in many GM bulletins. My ignition could not be turned off once I shifted to park as the SUV was not "recognizing" that the vehicle was in park. Dealer replaced the Shifter and jumper harness. Vehicle has 54,779 miles on it. Seems to me GM should be covering this cost as it's a known defect. Any idea who I should contact to take this up with GM??
 

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... Any idea who I should contact to take this up with GM??
Contact GMC Customer Care on the main GMC website. The shifter isn't covered by the power train warranty. It's doubtful GMC will provide any assistance with the repair unless your vehicle's first repair was done within the last 12 mo./12K mi. Doesn't hurt to ask, though. While you're at it, search this forum using "shift to park" as keywords and see what others have gone through.
 

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No warranty. Might broker a deal on a repair from GMC or the dealer.

You many get turned dow with GMC but if you do escalate the call to a super and their super. Persistence pays off.
Here's a novel idea, owners should pay for your own out of warranty repairs......or petition your congress person to come up with a government back auto repair loan program :ROFLMAO:
 

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thanks. calling now
Or if you or someone you know is even a bit mechanically inclined, read the several threads here on how to make this relatively simple repair yourself.

The problem is a small micro switch that is over stressed in the shifter. A short wire jumper, or replace the switch and adjust the switch lever for less compression and travel and the problem can be solved with a little understanding of the issue.

Should you have to do this? No. . . . but things are never perfect and often it seems engineers are rushed to get a job done and over look observing the design limitations to accommodate proper part parameters.
 

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While the rush to get a design out the door may result in design errors, it doesn't explain issues that are known but don't get fixed, like the porosity in the block castings of the 3.6L V6. The TSB covers all versions of that engine in various GM cars and trucks 2009-2021 (maybe also 2022 but my copy of the TSB is dated Sept, 2020).
 

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Contact GMC Customer Care on the main GMC website. The shifter isn't covered by the power train warranty. It's doubtful GMC will provide any assistance with the repair unless your vehicle's first repair was done within the last 12 mo./12K mi. Doesn't hurt to ask, though. While you're at it, search this forum using "shift to park" as keywords and see what others have gone through.
I had this problem with a 2017 Acadia Denali. Repair was covered by extended warranty and it fell under the “drive/power” train clause.
 

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I had this problem with a 2017 Acadia Denali. Repair was covered by extended warranty and it fell under the “drive/power” train clause.
An extended service plan may cover things the new car warranty does not. I've read a bunch of stories about people being denied coverage because they didn't have an extended service plan.
 

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We watched a YouTube video…according to the service bulletin 1.8 hours…we accomplished this fix in 2.5 hours…and the best part it was free…this method will take a small paper clip versus the large, other than dismantling center console, the toughest part was getting the shifter knob off…
 

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Here's a novel idea, owners should pay for your own out of warranty repairs......or petition your congress person to come up with a government back auto repair loan program :ROFLMAO:

GMC should cover this since nearly every Acadia has this problem. It's a defect, not something that happened. When it first starts happening, you think you just didn't put it into park. It doesn't happen often so you don't bring it in under warranty. Here we are around 50,000 miles and it's doing it more and more often, so often that there is a Class Action lawsuit going around on the internet.
 

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How I did my shift to park fix under a shade tree
No guarantee expressed or implied
It took me a couple days to round up the needed items
And about 30 min to fix, without dismantling my entire car.

1. I did change my shifter previously, the small pin that holds the leaver button was out of the socket…there is a you tube video about this…. I found a new shifter on line at a good price. I did repair the original one in case it is ever needed. The new shifter helped for a while.

2. the switch issue is complicated. Sometimes it is the switch itself not making a good connection, sometimes it is the metal tab that some folks bend to make the switch push all the way in to make a better connection, sometimes it is the leaver pin I mentioned in the shifter assembly, and sometimes it is bounce.

3. the inline device GM added is a 100 ohm resistor with a IN1004 diode. Albeit it looks like the diode is backwards, it is not. When the switch is engaged ( car in park ) the current draw is appox 2.9 mA at 12 volts ( well 13.6 or 14.2 depending on battery charge, engine running etc ) on this circuit. Basically you are pulling a pin on the computer chip to ground…about as simple and standard as it gets.
I can only speculate on the GM add on, it does not fix the switch issue per se .
However, when you slam the shifter, then wiggle it and cuss it and hit it and slam it you really don’t know how many times the switch made contact for a moment and then not, and the on board computer is now catching up … like your home computer when you out type it… i could be wrong ( but I’m not) and a de-bounce and slight current limiter ( with a snubbing diode) to the rescue. Because every time it bounces it slightly arcs ( 2.9 mA at 12 volt ) and you can study this in electronic theory or just take my word for it.

4 . Denali has no key. Push button to start . most of the Car is in Park info comes right off the transmission switch itself. This is why other than it dinging you to death it acts like the key is still on, but the car is safe. Well, I think to the computer the key is still on and in the ignition…except you have no key in the ignition. This is circuit 5905 .. the key capture column lock shift position signal. It’s the white violet wire a white wire with a violet stripe. on pin 11. you can count the pins don't confuse it with any violet wire with the white strip. they use both combos.
And… it shows up as pin 11 on the slate connector, easily accessible by pulling off the passenger side console cover… one 7mm bolt, a few snap locks and you are in.
If you are good with an exacto knife, and you can read wire color codes and pin numbers, the rest is pretty easy. Just trim a bit of the insulation off the white violet wire in the slate connector at pin 11. don’t chaff or cut anything else, and don’t cut the wire into or in two. Or in half either.
I took the actual GM part I found on line and used the diode and resistor. The short end of my alligator clip is the ground end. the black stripe on the diode is the positive end. I could have made this combo for 12 cents, but I didn’t know that at the time.
I used the ground stud shown, because good grounds are hard to find on plastic cars. I then taped a bit of tape over the clip at the wire for good luck.

Why I used the resistor and diode when in theory you could ground the wire direct you ask. In my humble opinion a slight amount of current limiting hurts nothing, since this circuit was really not intended to be brought to ground all the time, and at this connector we are closer to the main computer so we do not have the slight bit of wire resistance to the switch, and mainly because I bought the thing and wanted to use it. Plus sometimes my switch in the shifter probably still works as normal or even bounces and this minimizes the switch bounce issue.

Don’t get on the wrong wire. Don’t cut anything , you could even use one of those fancy crimp on wire splice things from the local auto parts store on the white violet wire ..they call them T Taps I believe. The white violet wire size is .35

Or you can use the paper clip method. but this worked well for me. happy honking.
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Any issues to date? Just started having issues on our 2019 3 days ago.
This works well . . . Otherwise, just replace and splice or solder in a new micro switch if you are handy. It will help to bend the lever on a new switch if you do replace it. This is shown in another thread on how to do that.
 
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