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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I posted this message on the Saturn Outlook forum (I have a 2007 XR AWD) but I think it is applicable to all Lambdas..

I was going over the towing section in the manual and it says that even if a vehicle has a factory tow package, two circuits, for battery and for trailer brakes, are not connected to the wires by default. Since I need all 7 to be fully operational I asked the dealer to do that for me and they told me it would cost me 100 bucks. Has anybody done it "at home" ? Is it difficult ?

Thx,
J33
 

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I think your dealer is not informed. There is a service bulletin out about fixing the fuse block and getting the 7 pin fully functional and it is fully covered under warranty. Push back a bit and get them to make your 7 pin fully work the way it is designed to work. You did not pay $30000+ for a car to not have it fully functional and certainly should not need to pay more to get it to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you all for your input. I am going to see the dealer tomorrow about a different thing so I will ask.

What the manual says is confusing...I just don't get why they would not fully enable the wiring with the tow package by default. Maybe to prevent unnecessary strain on the battery ?
 

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J33 said:
What the manual says is confusing...I just don't get why they would not fully enable the wiring with the tow package by default. Maybe to prevent unnecessary strain on the battery ?
That is a good question. If one of the BRIGHT AND TALENTED ENGINEERS CAN EXPLAIN THIS THAT WOULD BE WONDERFUL. :banghead: :banghead:
 

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bonk1313 said:
J33 said:
What the manual says is confusing...I just don't get why they would not fully enable the wiring with the tow package by default. Maybe to prevent unnecessary strain on the battery ?
That is a good question. If one of the BRIGHT AND TALENTED ENGINEERS CAN EXPLAIN THIS THAT WOULD BE WONDERFUL. :banghead: :banghead:
don't have to drive a train to answer that one...........$
only a couple in a thousand owners will ever use/know about this problem. Fix those and count all the $ you made by selling as the "Tow" pac and also saved $ in assembly.....less parts x K's $ = big $.........imo
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is really getting interesting....I stopped by another dealer last week and asked for the service (to enable the two wires). They didn't have a clue what I was talking about. I showed them the manual and they dragged a service guy from the bay to the customer area to help them. He looked at the hitch and finally got it. However, the dealer didn't even had a charge code in the computer to cover the work so they said that this would cost me at least 1 hr of labor. They didn't have any opening that day so I left...the saga continues.....
 

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I havent taken it to the dealer yet. I was going to wait till I did the brake fluid change just to eliminate trips. But we shall see.
I don't plan on leaving the dealership till it is taken care of. I will advise when I take it in.
 

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The book says the 12V circuit and brake circuits are not hooked up. On mine, the 12V was connected (The book is wrong). The brake line is not (which makes sense because it requires and aftermarket brake controller). The backup circuit was defective and required the change made in TSB. From what I have read here, the two circuits that don't work from the factory are the backup and brake. For me it didn't really matter, since I only needed the four wires for lights but it all works now (except the brakes because I don't have a controller but it should work).
 

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jseck2 said:
The book says the 12V circuit and brake circuits are not hooked up. On mine, the 12V was connected (The book is wrong). The brake line is not (which makes sense because it requires and aftermarket brake controller). The backup circuit was defective and required the change made in TSB. From what I have read here, the two circuits that don't work from the factory are the backup and brake. For me it didn't really matter, since I only needed the four wires for lights but it all works now (except the brakes because I don't have a controller but it should work).
My main need for the 7 pin harness to work is because that is where I am trying to tap my power for the monitor for the reverse camera. But since it has no power, it doesn't work, and I am S.O.L right now and had to find another constant power source that I don't like.
others that want to install the hitch mounted lights for additional reverse lights, will want the 7 pin working proprly or the lights won't work.
 

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Are you sure the 12V doesn't work? Although the book says it doesn't, mine worked from the factory. So did several other early posters when the issue of the defective backup circuit came up. Although I didn't need everything for my trailers, I put a voltmeter on mine and checked all circuits before and after the TSB. The TSB fixed the backup circuit and the 12V worked all along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
jseck2 said:
The book says the 12V circuit and brake circuits are not hooked up. On mine, the 12V was connected (The book is wrong). The brake line is not (which makes sense because it requires and aftermarket brake controller). The backup circuit was defective and required the change made in TSB. From what I have read here, the two circuits that don't work from the factory are the backup and brake. For me it didn't really matter, since I only needed the four wires for lights but it all works now (except the brakes because I don't have a controller but it should work).
Can the brake line be enabled in advance of hooking up the brake controller or the break controller has to be installed at the same time ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, it took more than a few days but finally I have an update. So it looks like all the wiring was fully enabled on my Outlook, again, contrary to what the manual says. I managed to successfully install the Tekonsha Voyager break controller and my Outlook is a very proud tow vehicle now. I managed to tow my 3100 lbs travel trailer on a 410 miles maiden voyage last Sunday with absolutely zero problems, everything worked great.

Again, thank you all for your help and support !
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hm... I am not really sure how to answer this question....Well, After I installed the controller I checked the 7 wire plug with a voltmeter for continuity first - worked as expected (break, lights, stop, signals). Then, I connected the trailer and the green light lit on the controller. Then, I leveled the controller sensor accordingly and started towing. Adjusted the power to the trailer breaks, then re-adjusted after first 100 miles. If you tow and apply breaks you can definitely feel when your trailer brakes are working or not.

J33
 
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