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Yes, lots of upward pressure to remove them. I have an 09 and just put the cross bars on this past weekend with help from the posts here (that they changed the design). I just got as good a grip as I could and pulled up, wiggling them as I was doing it. I was able to get the front edge up a little and was able to get a little more leverage that way. Eventually they popped off. Sadly I didn't think to take pictures of how they're held on since so people knew what they're dealing with.

As for the front screw, I just tightened until the pieces were flush and then screwed the tie down hand tight and the rails haven't moved yet.
 

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Bill in PA said:
I just finished putting on my roof rails. Sandman's "helpful hints" above were indeed very helpful, and saved me time, but perhaps I can fine tune them somewhat. I plagerized his instructions with a few edits (in CAPS).

"OK, got them installed. If I had to do it again - probably could do it in half hour or less. TRUE. Took me considerably longer first time. ALSO TRUE
Main thing - screws are different. The torx head go on the top. (they look just like the other ones except they have a little stud in the middle that prevents you from using a regular star drive - guess who didn't notice this until the front ones were on and I had to start over). THANKS TO SANDMAN I GOT THIS RIGHT THE FIRST TIME. The tie downs go inside (not top) and in the back holes.
To remove the rear cover - once the screw driver is inside the hole- push it IN towards the center OUTSIDE of the car. The directions say depress. I kept pushing down, nope its "in". YEP, PUSH IN TOWARDS THE OUTSIDE OF THE CAR. You have to do the same thing when you slide the rear cover back on. THE COVER SLIDES BACK TOWARD THE REAR. By the way, you could easily hide a key under the rear covers.
There is definately a front and rear crossrail (slightly different lengths). THE FRONT ONE WAS THE LONGER ONE.
The tap plates kinda seem to fit only one way. So if the hole doesn't line up - flip it over. If that doesn't work, try another one. THEY ARE TIGHT TO SCREW IN, BUT I BELIEVE THAT IS BY DESIGN SINCE YOU'RE NOT SUPPOSED TO MAKE THEM REAL TIGHT.
Think thats about it. Do read directions carefully".
Just used these instructions to get mine installed and it worked great! I can't believe how messed-up the factory instructions are - they clearly show putting a rear screw in the slots when in fact the tie-down screws go in the rear slots. Thule box (Atlantis 1600) fits perfect without having to remove the antenna or anything. Now to find a bike rack...
 

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We had the dealer install our cross bars -- they look great, yet we have a slight whistle from the front passenger side. Any helpful hints?
 

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New Dark Blue SLT1 said:
We had the dealer install our cross bars -- they look great, yet we have a slight whistle from the front passenger side. Any helpful hints?
Sounds like the front one may be installed backwards. Or the distance between the front and back is to close, creating a whistle.
 

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andyw715 said:
Sounds like the front one may be installed backwards. Or the distance between the front and back is to close, creating a whistle.
Same thing happened on our brand new minivan. It would start to whistle at about 35 mph. Took it to the dealer and took the salesman for a ride to recreate the sound.
He couldn't figure it out. Found out they installed the roof rails backwards from the factory. Wouldn't you think after building millions of Chrysler minivans they would have that figured out by now?
 

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drl said:
Just used these instructions to get mine installed and it worked great! I can't believe how messed-up the factory instructions are - they clearly show putting a rear screw in the slots when in fact the tie-down screws go in the rear slots. Thule box (Atlantis 1600) fits perfect without having to remove the antenna or anything. Now to find a bike rack...
The Thule Evolution 1200 (the longer, ski storage size version) fits fine as well without having to remove the antenna.
 

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