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Ok, Im making things worse.... 2013 GMC Acadia Engine Power Reduced, Service Stabilitrak, Traction Control Off bla bla

3.1K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Tomsws699  
#1 ·
Ok, 2013 with 140k on the clock AWD. Son was driving it and he called and said it started acting up and limped it home. It was rough to start but started. I did some research here and everywere else and figured Id start simple. I removed the throttle body and cleaned it with carb cleaner. It wouldn't turn over at all really after letting it sit for a bit but I was finally able to get it running enough to move it around the driveway with the same problem. Next I replaced the throttle body today. Easy job and followed the "re-learn" procedures found on this site. Wouldnt start but after a few times it turned over and it idled pretty smoothly. I let it idle for about 3 min and the codes showed back up. I couldn't find my code reader so I disconnect the battery for about an hour and hooked it back up and now it is doing what it did originally. I cant get it to stay running and when it does start to catch it shakes, rpm goes really low and dies. I even tried the removing the fuse box and making sure all was good with the connections. disconnected the battery multiple times but check engine light never went away and the messages are still there. I did finally find my code reader and here are the codes it is showing. P228C P0089 P00C6 P16A1. I just cant figure out how they are all related. Im loosin my mind. Any more suggestions would be great. Im pretty sure its just something I missed or did in the process but had to walk away for a bit.
 
#3 ·
@Tomsws699 : my son has been going through a similar issue with his 2008 Malibu … except no Codes in his case. He bought a Fuel Pressure Test Gauge (~$50) and it read 50+ PSI … so we turned away from the Fuel Pump. Could also hear the Pump Relay clicking. He was chronically running it low on Gas, so we tried a tank of Mobil “top tier” fuel, plus a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner … but the random failures continued. Finally, it wouldn’t start at the house … Test Gauge showed zero (?) and no fuel at the Rail, so he’s getting the Pump replaced.

Co-worker’s step-nephew had a 2001 Mustang with intermittent starts and stalling. He dropped the Tank to find frayed wires at the Pump head. Said if it was his car he would’ve just fixed the Wiring, but ended up replacing the Pump.

On your vehicle, can you hear the Pump “prime” (humm/buzz) when turning the Key to the first stop (or is it the 2nd stop, but before the Engjne cranks)? Can you hear the Relay click? I wanted my son to actually verify power at the Pump’s harness, but I think he just decided to take it in for the Pump replacement (probably $500 job!):confused:

If you’re planning on fixing this yourself, a 1-month subscription to AllDataDIY is well worth it. Lots of good information on there…including Wiring diagrams, Connectors, locations … pretty much everything you’d expect to find in the Helm Factory Service Manual … and easy to search and find what you need.
 
#5 ·
I wonder if you have multiple problems. The Stabilitrak/traction control and reduced power can all happen from a brake pedal position sensor being worn (and the vehicle thinking the brakes are being applied when they are not). Been there! Does your brake light stay stuck on?

A scan tool that can read ABS codes would be a big help here.
 
#6 ·
My Trailblazer dash was lit up with Stabilitrak/ABS problems like a Xmas tree. I thought this is going to be really expensive. I watched a few You Tubes and could not believe it. All it was was a $20 Wheel speed sensor harness that was not letting the ECM communicate. Replaced the harness, fixed the air gap, and now a perfect dash. Life is good sometimes. Stabilitrak will put the SUV in limp home mode too.
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#7 ·
Well, had a mechanic come by with scanner. Told me it was the fuel rail pressure sensor. Easy job really so I bought sensor and replaced it. Tried to start it after everything back together and it tried and ran for about 20 sec( rough idle) which is more than it would before but then stopped. Now it won’t turn over and same codes are back. I reset it after I replaced sensor and they were gone. Ugh