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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Good morning.

I have done alot of reading and i see that the pre 2012 acadias/traverse/Enclave all had issues with the Power steering pumps and racks.

My power steering has slowly stopped working at idle or low rpms over the past week.. The Power steering fluid was lower but still above the min mark.

Looking at the power steering pump its wet around/ behind the pully and it looks like even the pulley itself is wet a bit. I might even hear a slight whine that i don't recall being there before.

Looking at the rack i do not see any leaks at either end where the boots attach to suggest its leaking.

There is oil on the rack housing itself and its a bit wet but the oils is brown/black and does not smell like power steering fluid at all. I just change the oill on the car and there fresh oil down underneath from pulling the oil filter which i have to clean up. I can't see anywhere on the housing where it would be coming from,

I have looked over all the resources for how to change the pump including removing all the heat shields, catalytic convertor and working it out through the bottom. I do not have a lift but i have see a few people get it out this way with the front of the car on jack sand.. I'm not comfortable with dropping the sub frame to get the clearance to get it out that way and then having to get alignment as i don't have enough jack stands or floor jacks to do it in a controlled way. I also see the GMCs procedures follow pulling it out from underneath.

My question is based on all this, and with Power Steering only being and issue at low rpms 4 minutes after starting and driving does that rule out the Rack as the issue? When the PS is not working, raising the Engine RPM over 1000 rpms the Power steering works normally. It doesn't appear to be the same issues that pre-2012 vehicles had. Money is tight due to my Wife having great reduced hours over the past year so i want to do it myself. I haven't been working on my own cars for the past 20 years and aside from pulling the motors/trans/transfer cases on my trucks and cars i do most of the work myself since i enjoy its and its pretty straight forward.

Any input would be appreciated before i buy a pump with a pully already attached.

-Mike
 

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Is the power steering actually gone at low RPM, or is this just perceived steering input? If it's gone, gone, you should be getting a code and a instrument cluster light.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. The power steering does not work at idle after driving it 3kms I have to really pull hard on the wheel to get it to turn. If i increase the engine RPMs its kicks in again and easy to turn.. Its exactly like when the pump is out of fluid or low on my 2003 gmc sierra. A local shop quoted 1100 (canadian) to do the repair. Dropping the sub frame, removing the tie rod end and pulling it that way looks like the quickest, but not nearly as easy doing it with out a lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I went under it again tonight and there is oil on the rack which is coming from up top which I believe is the high pressure line. That line is also weeping at the top of the motor where it runs down back of the motor to the pump. The pump is soaked behind the pulley as is a mount directly under the motor and there is a line on the drive shaft from something dripping.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As of yesterday, power steeing oil is now drippig on the ground.. I still have not figured out if its the hose, the PS pump or both.. I will buy both and return whatever its not. I was thinking that the easiest thing to do would be to pull the pump and then pull the pulley while it still in the engine bay and then pull the pump out the wheel well.. ANd. I found a youtube video of someone doing exactly that which doesn't require dropping the sub frame or trying to get it out around the exhaust or remove any heatshields.. I will try this first and then try putting the pump over the header and up through the top of the engine like another video showed. A very hard job is looking to be alot easier..

The high pressure hose looks to be the hardest part now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just to close the loop on this. I spent about 10 hours doing this. I was able to pull the pulley and then pull the pump out the wheel well and then put the pulley back on after getting the pump back in through the wheel well. I also changed my high pressure steering hose since it was also seeping or maybe leaking and with the inability see the hose runs all the way up I just changed both the pump and line so it took me a lot longer then just changing the pump.

things I leaned. The new pressure line has a 17mm nut vs the 16mm / 5/8 nut that was on there. My Acadia does not have a second bracket on the passenger side like all the videos. When I you jack up you car make sure the wheels are tuned to the right so you can get your hands in there easier. I used ramps and Jacked up passenger one side so I couldn’t turn the wheels as my jack would take enough pressure to get the ramp out from underneath it.

When replacing the high pressure line, do not remove the old one from the rack until you are ready to put the new one in. You will drain a lot of oil out of the rack making it take for ever to bleed it. My new pump was whining badly at first so I bled is all again and then Found the elbow /oring was leaking on the nee pump so I reused the old o-ring and thst fixed it up. The new pump didn’t come with an elbow

this is a very time consuming job and I had a lot of breaks for the kids or waiting for my farther to go out and buy a 17 mm wrench that neither of us had.
A larger floor jack would have been better for getting it up in the air higher.

expect to make a huge mess when draining and bleeding the system.

Canadian tire let’s you rent the pulley puller /installer for free . You just pay 50$ and get it back if you return it in 3 days :).

With the pump and line being 250 (Canadian) I saved 850$ doing this myself snd with covid seeing my wife’s hours drastically cut for the past 12 months that 850$ is what her monthly income was cut by.

To replace the pump the way I did it’s just 4 bolts but all the **** in between snd running the nee line and bleeding the system took for ever. The steering is working normally now at idle but I will give it a few more days to be sure :)
 

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Thanks for the follow up. (y) Hope it works for as long as you own the vehicle.
 

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Thanks for the follow-up and report. I'm still surprised that you didn't have a code if you were leaking that much fluid and steering was gone.

As I too have a 2014 model year, I'm curious at what mileage you started encountering PS issues? I just put a ton of money and proactive maintenance into my vehicle in the past year and I'm really hoping to not have to touch it for a while. knocks on wood
 

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... I'm still surprised that you didn't have a code if you were leaking that much fluid and steering was gone. ...
I've not read anywhere that a fault message would be illuminated for a loss of p/s from lack of fluid. No 'code' was ever set on vehicles which exhibited the loss of power steering assist from a faulty pump/valve, even though the reservoir may have been full. Hydraulic power steering is probably not monitored by any of the control modules (ECM, PCM, or BCM).
 

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My wife's 2014 Encore sets codes and illuminates a fault light, so I figured it was prevalent on most modern day vehicles. I guess it's only for electronic power steering systems.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the follow-up and report. I'm still surprised that you didn't have a code if you were leaking that much fluid and steering was gone.

As I too have a 2014 model year, I'm curious at what mileage you started encountering PS issues? I just put a ton of money and proactive maintenance into my vehicle in the past year and I'm really hoping to not have to touch it for a while. knocks on wood
The fluid level was still between the min and max line. When the steering acted up, i didn;t notice any leaks. Then the PS starting working at idle/feeling normal but there was now fluid droping onto the ground causing puddles. The High pressure line looked to be weeping where it goes from the rubber to the metal lines but there was no obvious signs that it was spraying enough to cause the drips. Under the pump and around the pump was full of oil so i assume the seals in the pump were gone that started it all off.

Our acadia has 145 000 kms on it.. I see my lower control arm bushings at the front are worn/moving now so i need to decide to replace those for now or replace the whole control arms.. the Ball joints appear to be fine though as do the rear front control arm bushings.
 
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