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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hola - I'm new to the Acadia community, I really like the Lamba format and am still deciding on an Acadia or Enclave ;)

I currently have a Mazda6s and the online community over at mazda6club.com has some great ideas on power increases for cheap (or free!)

Airbox Mod:
http://www.amity.org/~data/m6airboxmod/

Resonator delete(step 12-12b.):
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=39&Itemid=35

I haven't even looked under the hood of an Acadia to see if this option would work, but most cars I've owned has some sort of 'silencing' device on the intake to make things less 'racy' when you step on the gas...

this may only give you 3-5HP but it's a free upgrade and the increase in air volume sounds nice as well...

Great site and keep up the great work!
 

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I don't get it...where did the Tuba part connect to prior to removal, or did it just drop down lower behind the front end to reduce noise? So effectively removing that will do nothing more than make the intake louder? You can't possibly believe that you are getting more HP(3-5 at that) by removing the parts indicated in that link. Do any of those guys have dyno sheets to prove it? All they did was open more holes to the airbox. But since they are not low enough to draw in the cold air from the outside, all they did was pull in more hot air from the engine effectively losing HP potentially. know this is free, but it really isn't doing anything. Unless the intent is to just make the intake louder...then more rice to ya!

Now your second link makes more sense, but then its also not free because technically the resonator is being removed to make way for the CAI.
 

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Couple of things.
First, congrats to whowever took all the pictures for the above links. That's a really nice tech job.
Second, our airbox has none of the gadgets or junk pictured. its just a box linked to a air filter. Follow this link for pics
Third, I would be tempted to add a K&N filter and then find some way to extend the tube which comes out of the air box to pickup the airflow more directly from the front of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
imgntht said:
I don't get it...where did the Tuba part connect to prior to removal, or did it just drop down lower behind the front end to reduce noise?  So effectively removing that will do nothing more than make the intake louder?  You can't possibly believe that you are getting more HP(3-5 at that) by removing the parts indicated in that link.  Do any of those guys have dyno sheets to prove it?  All they did was open more holes to the airbox.  But since they are not low enough to draw in the cold air from the outside, all they did was pull in more hot air from the engine effectively losing HP potentially.   know this is free, but it really isn't doing anything.  Unless the intent is to just make the intake louder...then more rice to ya! 

Now your second link makes more sense, but then its also not free because technically the resonator is being removed to make way for the CAI. 
the tuba is mounted near the bottom of the stock intake, it is shaped to reduce intake noise and flapper (inside the box) reduces noise as well, but they also reduce airflow - car manufacturers have to produce power but usually also have a need to reduce intake/exhaust noise - that's why there are so many mods for intake/exhaust, a small open up in the stock intake can make a small difference... and even improve mileage

engines are just big air pumps, the more efficiently you can bring air in and exhaust it out - the more power/gas mileage you'll achieve :)

I took the more expensive route - intake and catback exhaust, and it's DEFINITELY noticeable, and a true - albeit a bit noisier (but not ricey!)... it will be interesting to see what the Denali packages bring, and any freer flowing intake/exhaust combos from the aftermarket...  300 peak HP should be a no brainer for these vehicles - you figure 3.5L nissan motors were making 298HP last year, and the 3.7L models are pulling 330HP...

yah, yah - i'm sure premium fuel will come into play - but it's all about the challenge ;)
 

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Toadster said:
engines are just big air pumps, the more efficiently you can bring air in and exhaust it out - the more power/gas mileage you'll achieve :)
Yeah I get that, I had a 300HP 2nd Gen Eclipse with plenty of mods to it. However usually opening things up won't give both better power and gas mileage...it's a trade-off at times.

I still disagree that opening up those 2 little holes in the airbox can really give you any HP increases. Again love to see dyno sheets to prove it. There is so much heat underhood and no direct open space in the front of the car where those 2 holes are that would create a "cold-air ramming" effect which would give more power. People probably assume it is faster because the noise is louder and they spent so much time taking it apart, they want to believe they actually had an affect. Guess I'm hard to impress when it comes to mods! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i can't find the dyno's right now, but there was a 3-5 (peak) HP increase... granted, that's not much of anything - you can get that much on a cold versus hot day ;)



a full CAI and exhaust will have a bigger impact though...
I'm wondering how restrictive the 3.6L intake/exhaust is on the Lamba series engines...
 

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All I can tell you is that when I removed the three mufflers, they were really heavy. They muffled the sound very well. Just due to the lack of noise from the exhausts, I am guessing that there is a lot of baffling or restriction (at least compared to the magnflows and flowmaster I installed).
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
sandman said:
All I can tell you is that when I removed the three mufflers, they were really heavy. They muffled the sound very well. Just due to the lack of noise from the exhausts, I am guessing that there is a lot of baffling or restriction (at least compared to the magnflows and flowmaster I installed).
do you notice any power increase? how's the butt dyno? ;)

and did you do any Dyno testing?
 

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Sandman, when you first began posting about your performance exhaust installation, you felt you were experiencing improved mileage. Have you continued to monitor your mileage, and if so is this via the DIC or manual calculation? I'm thinking it could pay for itself within a year, if a roughly 2 mpg increase is consistent, assuming you rack up a fair amount of miles per year (and I do). A little more pickup would help with any lingering flat spots in acceleration, as well as any lingering uncertainty as far as upshifting/downshifting, too. I'm not dissatisfied with the sound of the factory system, maybe a little more prominent note at idle and under full acceleration would be ok, but I'm not looking to wake the neighbors, lol.
 

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Frankly, I added the mufflers for the looks and the sound. They are no where near to a "waking up the neighbors level", but at acceleration the sound tis noticeable (ths is one reason why I recommended installing the mufflers in stages). I find this helps my driving as I know instantly when my revs get over 2000 and can adjust if I want. I do think I have picked up about a 1 mpg increase. I don't have access, but haven't really looked for a dyno (I think its harder to find for AWD). I think I feel more snap around 4200 rpms, but it could just be the thrill of it all.
On installing, even though I went in the opposite direction. I don't think that just installing the two magnaflows will be that loud. The main muffler is a brute. If you still wanted a bit more sound after doing the magnaflows, then you could start experimenting with flowmasters (for the main) as they come in different sound levels.
Note: on an earlier post, I included pics. The polished magnaflows would look really awesome on a red or black car. They don't stand out quite as well on my silver one.
 

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Thanks for the Dyno sheet Toadster...interesting data. I guess I stand corrected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
imgntht said:
Thanks for the Dyno sheet Toadster...interesting data. I guess I stand corrected.
no worries... it's honestly dependent on how inneficient the airflow is on the OEM unit, usually if the vehicle is meant to be a people mover, or luxury model - the intake/exhaust are built to be non intrusive to the occupants... granted, there are some 'quiet' cars that are sleepers (CTS-V, G37, etc)... but they definitely have a 'noticeable' sound...

does anyone have under hood pics of the Lamba line OEM intakes? maybe start from there and if there are any mechanics online - maybe they can assist ;)
 

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Also depends on how well GM built both the exhaust and intake from the factory. A lot of factory vehicles are coming out with these two important areas covered under good design. Having come from an SRT-4, I know this only too well - Dodge built both the stock intake and exhaust with performance in mind, and until you start doing more to add power, adding or modifying the stock intake and exhaust did very little to the turbo-4's power. However, once you do start making $$ changes (especially with the Mopar stage kits) intake and exhaust really do benefit from being opened up, but only in tandem.

I just get a kick out of these kids and their Civics with the Folgers coffee can exhausts - fantastically pointless ricer mod. ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sandman said:
check out my link here. http://www.acadiaforum.net/forum/index.php?topic=213.0 --photos and description.
nice pics! I'm really curious as to what is down in the lower portion of the intake... I know on my Mazda6s there's a huge baffle which needs to be removed to put in a CAI. Had to pull down the inner fender (just 4 screws) but it's a tight fit... I'm really hoping K&N, Injen, etc can get one to look at... it seems to be setup quite well for a CAI setup :)
 

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The one thing I don't like about K&N is that they do not filter very well. At least in my applications when ever I had my oil sampled it always came back with a high silicon reading. I would change the filter to a standard paper filter and the silicon reading would go down on the next oil sample. No matter how careful I was cleaning the filter my silicon levels were high. Others might not have that problem. You get more air flow with K&N and unfortunately I got extra dirt as well.
 

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[No matter how careful I was cleaning the filter my silicon levels were high. Others might not have that problem. You get more air flow with K&N and unfortunately I got extra dirt as well.
[/quote]

I was wondering about K&N as that seems to be the most mentioned CAI for non tuning applications. After doing a lot of reading on CAI's, I wondered about the filtering qualities of all the brands that are out there. For my Stang, I chose S&B CAI as they meet certain ISO standards than none of the other manufactures mention. S&B tech information coupled with their Quality assurance program convinced me they have the best filtering product to allow more air intake. I wrote them to see if plans for the Acadia and said no back in June. All these drop in CAI's can add 1-3 mpg depending on your driving style. There is all kinds of advertising for many CAI brands and just be careful. Microns maybe mentioned, but entrapment of these particals is MOST important in the design of these filters. Thanks rat.... for confirming your K&N finding. Extra dirt entering AI is not good to keep a happy engine.
 

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Rat407 said:
The one thing I don't like about K&N is that they do not filter very well. At least in my applications when ever I had my oil sampled it always came back with a high silicon reading. I would change the filter to a standard paper filter and the silicon reading would go down on the next oil sample. No matter how careful I was cleaning the filter my silicon levels were high. Others might not have that problem. You get more air flow with K&N and unfortunately I got extra dirt as well.
Hey Rat407, I was just curious where you were driving to get those higher silicon levels? Were you in an extra dusty or sandy enviroment? I assume you reoiled the filter after cleaning it. How often (miles wise) did you get your oil sampled? Was your filter enclosed or sitting open in the engine bay? Thanks.
 

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I'm having a tough time with this notion as well. K & N is CARB certified in the state of California. They've had a stellar reputation for decades. They do not void the drivetrain warranty, and carry a million mile warranty themselves. Occasional cleaning and re-oiling is all they require, and they last for the lifetime of the car. Just the drop-in filter can do wonders, as far as helping the engine to breathe better, providing better pick-up and better mileage. I've used them myself for years, and drive my cars (Toyotas bought new, up until the Acadia) close to 200K miles and beyond, before I trade. Never a problem.
 

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I've had good luck with K&N in both automotive and motorcycle applications, though they can clog up in dusty conditions. Here is a pretty good analysis of K&N vs some other (non-automotive) filters...

http://www.bigcee.com/filtertest/
 
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