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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '08 White Diamond Acadia and light grease spots olooking like stains located on my front door paint near the front tires. Has anyone experience this and if so what did you do to remove the light grease spots? Or I would greatly appreciate if someone could recommend a compound or solution to remove the grease-like spots. I've tried warm water and soap, turtle wax rubbing compound to remove stains and scratches and does not help.
 

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Try WD40 it removes road tar, bumper sticker glue, etc... After you remove the grease marks with the WD40 apply some wax over that spot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
WD40 did not seem to work for me. It appears that the grease spots are part of the paint. Is there a compound to strip the grease spots out without ruining the paint?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the link but that is not the same problem I am having. I thought it was just street grime but when I wiped it off it lightened up and appeared to stain the paint or become etched into the paint coat. I may just take it back to the dealer to look at and fix since I've only had the car for 3 wks.
 

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vlresident said:
Thanks for the link but that is not the same problem I am having. I thought it was just street grime but when I wiped it off it lightened up and appeared to stain the paint or become etched into the paint coat. I may just take it back to the dealer to look at and fix since I've only had the car for 3 wks.
I have used an orange based bike chain degreaser to remove tar and grease from my vehicles before. I bought it at the local bike shop I believe it is made by pro-line?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
At this point I wouldn't think a degreaser would work since I've tried a compound for removing stains and WD40. Has anyone tried a mild paint thinner and some wax?
 

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vlresident said:
At this point I wouldn't think a degreaser would work since I've tried a compound for removing stains and WD40. Has anyone tried a mild paint thinner and some wax?
consult a paint shop, it might be serious, could be underneath the paint.... just my 2 cents....
 

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I agree with SioXie. It may be that you could make things worse too. I would consult a paint shop or the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I totally agree after trying a clay bar last night and that did not work for me. I am taking to the dealer today. I only have 1,700 miles on the car and in the manual on p5-96 it says something similar to that the dealer will pay to have the paint fixed for chemical fallout that gets etched into the paint. I really think tar or some brake dust or something of sort got on the car and sat too long on the paint and now whatever it is got bonded/etched into the paint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK AN UPDATE. I took my car to the dealer and the dealer pointed out that the marks and spots was a result of using an oil-based tire cleaner. The grease from the tire and use of oil-based product got under my clear coat and stained the paint. The dealer body shop said the only way to get the stained spots off is that I would have to get the paint sanded down and re-paint the bumpers to get back to normal. The quote was $1,000 to do this. I was a bit upset after hearing this. The dealer body shop did give some good honest advice and told me to take my care to a car detailing shop around the corner to see if they had any type chemical that would take out the spots. So, I went over to the detailing shop and the guy there told me the same but as I was leaving he mentioned that I might be able to get some ultra fine 1500 sand paper to try to take the spots out. So, I went and bought some sand paper as recommend and started to sand away. I was able to get out all the spots with the sand paper and some turtle wax rubbing compound and looks like new. Saved me some $$$. Although, it took a lot of work and energy to do this and I DEFINITELY learned my lesson. Woosh!! I sure hope this helps someone else...
 

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Looks like you got this solved before I could reply. I was actually goign to suggest using some scratch-X or other mild abrasive scratch remover to strip a thin layer of clearcoat off. That seems to be the exact solution that worked for you. Glad to hear you solved it and kept that $1000 in your pocket! :)
 

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I've never heard of such a thing as getting under the clear coat. Once the clear coat dries, there should be no penetration at all. I've used all kinds of cleaners on my truck, mustang and acadia and never had any such problem if it happens to get on the paint. If you were able to sand and polish this out, then it didn't get under the clear coat to the paint. Rubbing compound is very harsh for clear coat also because it can leave small scratches, but it shouldn't be too noticeable in the white and in that area.
 

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Hi...I'm new to this forum and have had my Acadia for about 30 days and 1100 miles now. It was washed for the first time at a detail shop last week and they DID apply tire shine. Well, after being garaged all week long, I looked today and saw hundreds of brown spots as described behind my front tires. A few spots had made it to the area near the rear door handles and on the rear hatch.

Tried light buffing with a Meguire's compound and made no impact. This is disheartening to read but helps direct my next steps.

I plan to follow-up with the dealer next week and will update if they say or do anything worthwhile. Thanks for the info!
 

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texans59 said:
Hi...I'm new to this forum and have had my Acadia for about 30 days and 1100 miles now. It was washed for the first time at a detail shop last week and they DID apply tire shine. Well, after being garaged all week long, I looked today and saw hundreds of brown spots as described behind my front tires. A few spots had made it to the area near the rear door handles and on the rear hatch.

Tried light buffing with a Meguire's compound and made no impact. This is disheartening to read but helps direct my next steps.

I plan to follow-up with the dealer next week and will update if they say or do anything worthwhile. Thanks for the info!
That sounds like sling to me. Some "detail shops" may not use the best products for tire shine and use some nasty chemicals to put on tires. A safer alternative is a water-based tire shine product applied yourself and make sure it has time to dry before driving. I use Adam's VRT on my tires and it usually dries in about 5 minutes. It's not the wettest looking tire shine, but restores a nice, natural looking lustre to the tires. Makes'em look new again.

As for the existing spots, you might want to try out a clay bar as someone else suggested for the original poster. The ones (Mother's, Meguiar's) at local auto stores are usually very mild. I've used them before and they'd be lucky to remove dust off your paint. There are some more aggressive clays available online. However, if you get after it too much with clay, it will leave some micro-marring (very tiny scratches) on your paint. This would need to be followed up with some polishing, usually machine polishing. Machine polishing may also be needed to get the brown spots out. I've used clay before to take some pretty nasty crap out of paint, so I would start there first. Next, might be best to avoid that detail shop in the future. Let me know if there are any other questions. Good luck!!!
 

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Sorry to hear of your problem

When using anything to clean your truck remember to read the cautions or risks pertaining to paint and clearcoat finishes.
My general rule is if it can cause an irritant to my skin I won't use it on the cars paint. :eek:hno:

I also have a white diamond SLT 09' unfortunately I haven't had much experience with the truck yet but I hope they are all good.
I agree with what has been said about polishes and waxes
I use meguiars three step 1paint cleaner 2polish 3gold class wax with a power buffer on my honda since new and it's works amazing the finish is super smooth (piece of paper can't sit on the car) and restores any discoloration from weather and road grime though some of the steps may have to be repeated for desired results

with the tire shine products I take a rag and quickly wipe any leftover residue that the tire hasn't absorbed before I drive or the product can spray on the body as the wheels turns with the sun beating on the over-spray this can discolor paint

Hope this helps
Well, good luck!
 

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Be careful when using harsh chemicals or abrasive materials to clean off any kind of blemish on the clear coat. GMC's clear coat can scratch, peel off, separate from the paint, or dissolve if you try too hard to clean road grime, tar, or anything else off of it. Usually road tar will dry out over a period of time. This could take a few weeks or a couple of months based on the climate. It can take so long because most blemishes that don't wipe off with regular cleaning are oil based. Road tar and other oil based blemishes are MUCH easier to clean off after they have dried out, as they won't smear or remain "sticky." So, I suggest being patient, letting the blemish dry for a few weeks, and then trying to clean it. Impatience and using harsh chemicals or abrasives can leave permanent damage where only a temporary bit of road tar was there to begin with.

As for tire care, I am a fan of Armour All. Their products are water based, and so can easily be applied to the tires without risking damage to the paint. They are a big name brand, so they have a reputation to protect. This means they test their products pretty well before selling them to us (my opinion). The original formula also works well on all interior/exterior plastic surfaces to extend their life against UV rays and dust.

On a slightly different note, if you use Armour All on your interior leather, make sure you condition the leather at least every 6 months with the conditioning gel (brown bottle with the opening at the bottom - available at Wal-Mart). The leather cleaning products are water based, and do NOT condition the leather. If you don't condition the leather, it will crack over time - could happen in only a few years, even on a new car.

Lastly, Armour All original works GREAT on cleaning your engine. I learned this from a used car dealer. The way they keep the engine so clean is by using dramatically large amounts of Armour All - just spraying it directly onto the engine. I tried it and have decided it works very well, whether you are cleaning your engine normally or preparing a vehicle for sale/trade-in. When I clean my engine I liberally spray Armour All on all the plastic after wiping it down or spraying it clean. It soaks into the plastics and rubber, shining them up and protecting them from future dust build up. Also, it makes the engine easier to clean later because all the parts are "slicker."
 
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