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Discussion Starter #1
Had the oil changed on a regular basis. Driving to work one day I had a message flash saying to stop the engine low oil pressure. I stopped the engine and immediately checked the dipstick. Oil was not low. Someone stopped and helped look at a few things and told me it should be fine get to the gas station to get my daughter and I off the middle of the road. I did. Light came on again. Again I was told just get up there (I was .5 a mile a way). I was able to get there and the light didn't come back on. My husband finally got my message and came to help escort us back to the house. I sat there and idled the engine and after a few minutes at 2000 rpms the light came back on. Car was due for an oil change we were just trying to get to Saturday which was 2 days away. We got the oil changed and wham car was fine. We drove it Friday through Tuesday afternoon (town driving and interstate driving, I work an hour away). Upon leaving Tuesday the light came back on. There are no codes stored in the computer. The light comes and goes. I was told if it was a bad sensor there would be a code. However there is nothing even showing that the shut down message occurred. I was told the oil pump is going out and to change it the engine needs to be lifted. I see there are a lot of complaints on here regarding these errors and with 165,000 miles on the vehicle and owing 9500 $ to the bank I am not sure what to do. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have been told once these vehicles start having issues like this it is all down hill and this year make and model are known to have a lot off issues.
 

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It's been known that oil pressure sender/computer communication is prone to send erroneous messages about low oil pressure at times. I don't believe the oil pressure sender fault stores a code in that case. There are other places on the engine where oil pressure is also monitored. As long as the engine isn't knocking, or clattering, it should be OK. The place to start with any repair would be changing the pressure sender and having the engine's oil pressure checked by a scanner capable of reading engine oil pressure.
 

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Thank you! It just seems like I have had nothing but problems with this vehicle and I need 2 hub assembly's as well. With the mileage I put on it I am wondering if it is even worth the loan anymore. I will try this and go from there! Thank you again!!!!
 

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Are you talking about the low oil light (yellow) or low oil pressure light (red)?

If low oil pressure, you seriously need to confirm whether the problem is the sending unit or the oil pump. Sending unit is an easy fix, oil pump not so much.
 

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Are you talking about the low oil light (yellow) or low oil pressure light (red)?

If low oil pressure, you seriously need to confirm whether the problem is the sending unit or the oil pump. Sending unit is an easy fix, oil pump not so much.
Red light came on and on the driver display it said low oil pressure shut off engine
 

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Maybe you just have something simple like a frayed wire coming from the Oil Pressure Switch? If not, and the wiring looks OK, I'd be changing the Switch out ASAP. You need to know ASAP whether you have some level of oil pressure problem (if at all) before continuing to drive the vehicle.

But in all likelihood, it's the Switch and/or the wiring to it ... otherwise you'd probably be hearing the engine getting noisier and noisier.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Right now were not driving the vehicle as the hub assemblies need to be repaired as well. I was told I should have a code though. We are going to buy the part this afternoon and install it. I will keep you all posted. Thank you for your help.
 

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I had the same problem, 2010 GMC Acadia SLT FWD w/143,000 miles, intermittent warnings that the oil pressure is low, shut off the engine (RED Light on dash, and similar chime to a disconnected seatbelt), particularly when the car was idling at 600-700 RPM (like at a stop light), but if I put it in neutral and got the RPMs to 2000+ it would usually end the warning message. Over the period of a couple weeks it got more frequent. However, the engine did not heat up, sounded normal, ran perfectly normal.

I called the dealer, they told me it is a $700 repair job, because they need to remove the alternator to get to it. I watched a few videos on YouTube, and went to NAPA auto-parts GM Part Number is 12635957, NAPA # is ECH OP6233 for $53. I also got a Oil Pressure Switch Socket, NAPA # 3458. You absolutely need the socket to remove the switch. It is really a very tight space to work around. I also needed to use a socket wrench with an extension. Be really careful if you are going to try it. First, do not damage the electrical connecting harness, it is clipped on to the Oil Pressure Sending Unit. Gently remove it, by releasing the clip, then sliding it off. I had to put the socket on the sending unit first, then connect the extension, then connect the socket wrench to the extension. Again, apply consistent pressure to remove the sending unit, don't jerk it. You don't want to damage the treads or you will have a major problem. Due to the confined space, I could only move the socket wrench maybe 60 degrees. So, it will take a while, lots of short movements on the socket wrench.

Getting the new sending unit into the treads it difficult, because you really can't see what you are doing, you have to feel your way into the threads with your hand, and align the new sending unit properly into the threads. Try to get a few turns by hand to secure the new sending unit, and ensure it is aligned properly before you start applying the force of the socket wrench. Also, ensure you stay squared up down the length of the extension, so as not put uneven torque on the unit while screwing it in to the engine (or you might damage the threads). There's an o-ring on the sending unit, so once it is tight and completely in stop, don't over tighten it. I took the socket off twice while I was installing the new sending unit to visually inspect it was going on straight and true; once at the very start after about 5-6 turns (before I could do any serious damage), then again when it was requiring a bit more force to turn the wrench, which at that point, there was only a 2mm gap to close before the sending unit was completely seated. Then reattach the electrical harness.

I've been driving for the past few days, and have not seen the warning light reappear - problem fixed. Be patient with the process, it is a really simple fix, but made very challenging due to the confined space.
 
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