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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We are going to purchase a 08 FWD SLT-2 with sunroof - navigation - hud with ebony interior leather and medium brown / carbon / or midnight blue exterior. From my initial checks it appears it is very hard to find this car without extra options on top of that such as the trailer package, rear audio, 19 inch wheels or DVD system so it is very likely we will have to custom order. We have a 10 year old 2 door trade with 65k miles that the KBB says is $1350-1150 trade-in value (which represents good to fair and i believe it is a "good" vehicle). I will finance about half the vehicle cost with a loan before I ever set foot in the door to deal so I will be a "cash" buyer unless the dealer can beat my financing terms (unlikely unless a new dealer incentive rate appears soon.)

I do have some last minute questions though and any help I can get will be appreciated...

1. I intend to offer about 3% over invoice minus holdback + the typical acceptable fees and not allowing all the usual dealer attempted fees. Does this sound like a good starting point and how high do most of you think is fair for a final figure? I know Edmunds says 4-8% but it seems most of folks around here are getting it at invoice + or - $500 or so.

2. I was going to go to my closest dealer (where I did test drive) and make that offer stating that I intended to give them one chance, and only one chance at making a deal... that if I left I was going to the next GMC dealer and if they were lower I wasn't coming back etc. I of course want to have some room to maneuver but what is the range going on the Acadias right now, in particular a custom ordered one? I am also fairly serious about the threat, if I find a lower price I don't intend to go back to a previous dealer.

3. People talk about calling the internet manager etc. Should I simply call and by phone or perhaps FAX send the 3% profit offer? Won't they simply quote me a much higher price to get me in the haggle? Does filling out the Edmunds or Cars.com etc. form for dealer quotes really generate anything close to the final offer you can get? Seems too good to believe and that they would want you in to see how much fight you have in you... If you go the internet/phone/fax route how does it "work?"

4. When I bought my last car they (Acura) had to custom order it also and the quote for my trade in was clearly stated to be honored the 5-7 weeks later that the new car was delivered. Some have implied that GMC won't quote me on a trade until the custom ordered car arrives and then after the long wait they will jam me with a low ball offer on the trade. Is this true and should I simply try to sell it to a local used car dealer after the Acadia purchase and just front the $1000+ or so I think it will fetch me in addition to my down payment on the Acadia? I certainly can afford to do that although I hate to lose the (small) tax benefit of a trade-in plus the convenience. I can't sell it before the new car comes, nor will I do a direct sale to another buyer... far too much effort for my taste so I want to trade it in or sell it to a dealer.

5. How many of you had to pay an advertising fee and how bad was it. I intend to say "no" and see if they will move but if it sounds like I have to eat from your comments I will.

6. FINAL QUESTION... I have looked at carbuyingtips.net and intend to get the Edmunds or FightingChance pack before I buy. Which do you all prefer for accurate and useful data? Do I need the additional info (at the additional $$$) that FightingChance appears to provide?

Thank you so much... I have bought 2 previous cars but with family helping (I was 16 and 24) and we didn't do well because I wasn't running the show. I am in my early 30's now and will do it right this time. It is a great car but I am not paying a premium just because I like it or because I wasn't prepared.
 

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I would start at invoice if I were you. Were you buying a car off the lot it might seem like you would need to haggle more. As you are ordering, why pay more than invoice? That seems to be what most are getting. Why offer the extra few thousand dollars up front. I took in the printout from the Edmunds website when I went. It pretty well matched the GMC website for invoice price. If i were you, I would build your Acadia on the GMC and Edmunds sites and bring those with you. Insist on paying invoice or maybe $500 over. I originally contacted the internet manager via email. She told me what they had. I went in and asked for her. She priced it with me and it came out at $11 over invoice if I ordered. Similar Acadias on the lot were in the $40,000 range. I got mine for much less. I did have to pay the advertising fee which was $700-$750. I did not do a trade in so I have no advice for you there. My other GM car had 225,000 miles on it so I knew the dealer would not want it. I would skip the carbuying packs for now. If the first dealer balks at the invoice price then maybe get that stuff and take it to the next dealer. From what I got and sounds like others on here got, you should get right near invoice price before incentives.

Good luck!
 

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I like using carsdirect.com for pricing up my vehicles as well as autos.aol.com has so pretty accurate incentive information.

If you don't have any of the GM Friends & Family discounts, I would go the route of contacting the Internet Sales Manager. You will most likely have to customer order or they may have a chance of tracking down a comp vehicle for a dealer swap. This is the least painful and quickest way to get a good price. The trade-in on the other hand....I would think about selling that in the local paper, my reasoning is the dealer will push to offer $500-750 for it because they are just going to ship it out for a regional auto auction anyways. If you can deal with the nuts that will call you for the sale of your existing vehicle, you can make the $1000-15000 you are looking for. Me personally take the dealer trade-in offer (with a little haggling) and forget about the old vehicle.

Yes, everybody has to pay advertising. It is extremely rare a dealership does not actively participate in the national manufacturer advertising.

Good luck and enjoy the ride (literally and figuratively)!
 

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Supplier pricing offers many large employers the opportunity to get to invoice or less, right off the bat. Depends on the dealer and how well the Acadias are selling for them, but I would try to start at them showing you the invoice price. Ask for it. Don't start at 3% over. Start at $500 under and negotiate from there.

There are a ton of threads in the buying and leasing section...check out how others have done it and arm yourself with this valuable information! Good luck! :thumb:
 

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You should be able to get invoice, or at worst case $100-$200 over invoice. If you dealer participates in the advertising, then that is a real cost to them and you will need to pay it. My dealer did not participate in the advertising and I was able to order at flat invoice.

When I buy a car, I first shop for the sales person. I go into the dealer, ask the sales person if they will order me a car at flat invoice, and if they say no, I ask for the manager. I tell the manager that if he doesn't have someone that will order me a car at flat invoice, then I will go to another dealer.

I have never walked out and have always purchased new cars at flat invoice.

Any rebates or incentives come off below the invoice price. Some dealers that know there is a $500 or $1000 incentive will say yes to invoice price but really are saying invoice price AFTER their incentives. Make sure that is clear.

After you have come to an agreement to order at invoice, then use a site like edmunds to build your car and go in with the info to place your order.

My dealer built my Acadia for me, then printed out the invoice price sheet that showed all options priced out. I checked this against edmunds and it was an exact match. I then went back in and placed the order at flat invoice.

If you go online and use GMs site for pricing at "Supplier Pricing", and then compare that to flat invoice, you will always be about $500 better off paying flat invoice. The "GMS", or employee pricing, will always be about $500 less than invoice, but that does require being an employee or family member of an employee. Also, some GM credit card earnings cannot be used with GMS pricing.

Good luck!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
We have a local CarMax, I think I will just sell my trade in there after I purchase the Acadia. I will put $1000 extra down on the Acadia to account for the old car and if I get less at selling the used car it won't be that bad, if I get more well... then I will just say it is for mats etc. for the Acadia.

How about this then... I just start cold calling all the internet managers, tell 'em what I want and I will pay flat invoice with rebates applied. I'll tell them I will pay standard fees (which from the sound of it includes advertising) and nothing else. Hopefully someone bites.

I intend to start this on Monday. :)
 

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I would get a quote at CarMax and a trade-in quote from your dealer. My CarMax offered us $500 less than what the dealer offered, and the dealer's offer was $3000 less than trade-in values on Edmunds, KBB, and NADA. I actually ended up selling my car on EbayMotors in less than a week for $3k more than what the dealer offered me. However, that may not be a good option for you if you are only expecting $1500 for your current car.

I'm sure it varies by location, but I would not go over invoice. I agree with Cravenfan in that you should start at $500 under invoice expecting that they will try to negotiate up to invoice.

I purchased my Acadia last week. I had 2 offers on the table from 2 different dealers for cars on their lots. The first offered me 1% under invoice plus the ~$800 advertising fee and the other offered 2% under invoice without the advertising fee. I obviously took the second deal. (They did tack on an extra $300 fee for window etching which I was not happy about, but it was much better than the advertising fee.)

I had actually originally custom ordered an Acadia last March at invoice but had to back out of the deal. If dealers were willing to order at invoice 9 months ago, I would think it would not be a problem to get the same deal now.
 

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canyonblue737,

Another option for selling your car is to put it on Craigslist.org. We sold our Odyssey that way and ended up getting about $2,000 more (almost 20%) than the dealer would offer on a trade. I know it's a hassel dealing with selling it yourself and I was real tempted to just let the dealer have it, but I guess we got lucky and had a decent buyer. Plus our dealer went along with a dealer pass-through where, on paper, it looked like we traded in the Odyssey and then our buyers bought it from the dealer, so we got the bonus of selling it for more money plus the sales tax benefit of the trade-in.

My suggestion, don't even worry about the holdback. Like you mentioned, shoot for invoice right from the start, especially if you order one. The holdback will be pure profit for them in that case. Buying one off the lot may cost a little more, as the time it has sat there has eatin up some of the holdback due to financing costs to the dealer.

And make sure that the negotiated price is before any incentives are applied. Advertising fees are generally non-negotiable, an especially hungry dealer might be willing to eat this too, but don't count on it.

I guess I'm lucky enough to have an honest, small-town dealer to work with. He will sell me any ordered vehicle, any time for invoice + $400 - incentives, with no advertising charges. Yeah, I might be able to get it a few hundred cheaper if I shopped around, but it's nice always knowing exactly what I'll be paying for a vehicle without the headache of haggling.
 

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I agree with all the statements listed above about using invoice (or below) as your starting point. I would also recommend either calling, emailing, or faxing multiple dealers with the config you are looking for, letting them know that you are contacting multiple dealers, and asking them to give you their best offer.

My dealer started the discussion at invoice price before I even mentioned any numbers. Then we worked from there. The price we agreed upon at ordering time didn't include any incentives or rebates that were available at that time, but the final price at delivery time would reflect any incentives or rebates that were available at delivery time. In my case, there was a $500 conquest rebate available at ordering time that was still valid at signing time. So that $500 was subtracted from our agreed upon price at ordering time as my final price. However, if the rebate would have changed to $1000, I would have gotten the full $1000 off of my agreed upon rate instead of just the $500 that was available at ordering time. Conversely though, if the rebate had gone away completely, my final delivery price would have been the price negotiated at ordering time.

My local dealer actually happens to be a small family run dealership that was great to work with. Before I signed for my order, we agreed to a price for my trade in and they said they would honor that deal at delivery time as long as the condition of the vehicle hadn't changed in the interim period. When it came to delivery time, they didn't even bother to look at my trade-in and still honored the agreed upon rate. I'm sure not all dealerships would be so honorable, but it worked out well for me.
 

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I think this only applies if you are already a GM customer, but in addition to all the other cash back offers, I talked with the service manager at the GM dealer and he gave me an additional $500 off from the service department's funds. Just another thought....
 
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