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Finally got mine installed. Here are a few hints to make the process easier.
OK, got them installed. If I had to do it again - probably could do it in half hour or less. Took me considerably longer first time.
Main thing - screws are different. The torx head go on the top. (they look just like the other ones except they have a little stud in the middle that prevents you from using a regular star drive - guess who didn't notice this until the front ones were on and I had to start over). The tie downs go inside (not top) and in the back holes.
To remove the rear cover - once the screw driver is inside the hole- push it towards the center of the car. The directions say depress. I kept pushing down, nope its "in". You have to do the same thing when you slide the rear cover back on. By the way, you could easily hide a key under the rear covers.
There is definately a front and rear crossrail (slightly different lengths).
The tap plates kinda seem to fit only one way. So if the hole doesn't line up - flip it over. If that doesn't work, try another one.
Think that's about it. Do read directions carefully.
Will try to get some pictures up in a couple of days. I'm kinda tired of looking at the car right now
 

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sandman said:
Finally got mine installed. Here are a few hints to make the process easier. OK, got them installed.
Ya' know, after reading this, I think I am going to take your advice.

Kelly
 

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Just installed my roof rails. Took about 20 minutes to do solo, not including time to open the box, check parts, and read this Forum thread. The info contained here was very helpful! Thanks to all of you.

My notes:
The instructions are not well written, or at best not thorough. The graphics are ok, but the text isn't all that clear.
You do not need to use a screwdriver to unlatch the rear part of the roof rail cover. I used the torx wrench that came with the kit. Yes, per the earlier posting, you just push in, not down.
You do not need a #6 torx screwdriver for the 4 top screws to attach the top plates. The torx wrench that came with the kit does it all.
Yes, the 8 screws are confusing without reading this thread. Also, the 4 screws you use first that are regular hex heads have a rust/orange coating on the ends of the thread. The remaining 4 torx head screws are plain.

So other than a stepstool/stepladder to get to the roof of Alice Acadia and a plastic bag to put the instructions and the torx wrench that came with the cross rail set, no additional tools were necessary after opening the box.

I would recommend that you buy the cross rail set and install yourself and save the dealer labor charge/profit.

See this thread for the full discussion--
http://www.acadiaforum.net/forum/index.php?topic=76.0
 

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I just installed the cross rails and it appears they have resolved the confusion with the screws. The top screws were larger than the other screws. ie, 4 larger torx screws for the top. 4 smaller torx screws for the side screws and then the 4 tightening screws with the tie down feature. I hate to say it but I was so prepared for confusing screws from the information that I thought I was missing something. Evendently they had received complaints or something causing a rewrite of the directions and a different setup with the screws. It was a very easy install. 20 minutes at the most. I definately recommend doing it yourself to avoid the install charge.
 

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I just installed my GMC Acadia SLTcross rails, on the luggage rack bars, and they were a pain. The part that was difficult, was, interpreting the instructions, because they did not apply to my 2009 SUV. It said to insert a screwdriver into the hole on the inside of the back rear cover base that attaches to the roof of the vehicle and "depress". Well I spent 1 hour depressing, pushing, swearing and getting depressed, when I finally put a slim wooden wedge under the rear of the chrome end rail cover and pushed the wedge in as for as it would go, which lifted the back of the cover about 1/4". I then took my hand and rolled the end rail cover back and forth and it finally came off, albeit, I broke off the 2 black plastic tabs and the single chrome 1/4" plastic pin that was attached to the underside of the rear cover cap. The 2 black plastic tabs broke off from the base of the rail system that came with, and was bolted, to the suv roof. I super-glued the pieces back in place and added a little clear latex caulk and reinstalled and everything seems ok. The holes for the screwdriver had absolutely no purpose. They must be a carryover from earlier year models!!!
NOW THAT I KNEW HOW TO DO THIS, I PUT A SLIM WOOD WEDGE UNDER THE OTHER REAR END COVER AND USED 2 PUTTY KNIVES ON EACH SIDE OF THE FRONT OF THE COVER, RAISING UP THE FRONT OF THE COVER AND PUSHING THE WEDGE IN AT THE BACK, AT THE SAME TIME, AND IT FINALLY "POPPED" "STRAIGHT-UP" AND I DID NOT BREAK THE TABS OR PIN AND DID NOT HAVE TO CAULK THE COVER BACK IN PLACE!
Installing the rails was a breeze. The longer rail goes in the front and shorter rail in the back. Make sure to look at the arrows, on all of the pieces. They always point to the front of the vehicle. Also, check "LH " and RH" as left is the driver's side. Do not tighten the front screw down too tight(on the slides) so the cross bars will slide when you loosen the rear "tie-down" bolt, which can be tightened or loosened by hand, therefore, making the crossrails slide to whatever positon you want and then you can tighten them down with you hands and the rails will not move.
I purchased mine online from Stonebriar Chevrolet in Texas: www.StonebriarChevrolet.com(www.yourgmparts.com) and they were $148.00 pluse $15.00 for shipping. They were very pleasant to deal with and their products are GMC parts. I would recommend them to anyone!
GOOD-LUCK!!!!!!
 
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