Seems like a headache; once you figure it out you'll probably shake your head hno: about how easy it was

 

Dang, I did this so long ago - tis hard to remember. kinda think the key was pushing towards the outside of the car. Maybe try a smaller screwdriver? I'll go out tomorrow and see if I can get mine off and will let you know.

 

Check this thread out.

http://www.acadiaforum.net/forum/index.php?topic=76.0

 

Dang, I did this so long ago - tis hard to remember. kinda think the key was pushing towards the outside of the car. Maybe try a smaller screwdriver? I'll go out tomorrow and see if I can get mine off and will let you know.

Just tried it (unless things have changed for newer cars), went pretty easy.
Put screwdriver in hole (I used one with a very small head), push pretty hard, straight back. And (this may be the key), while pushing in use your other hand to slide off the top part. You definitely have to push and slide at the same time. Good luck :cheers:

 

Thanks, but still no luck. I'm beginning to think something's different on the 2009 model, which is odd because the cross rails have the same instructions and the rails have the same access hole. I can't believe I'm having this much trouble with it. If it's not too much trouble, I think it would have tremendously if someone posted a picture with the rail cover removed so I can better visualize how the release mechanism works.

:banghead:
-Steve

 

Weird ! the mechanism is really simple. you are just pushing against a lever that when pushed back far enough, the pin (or long metal thing) from the top can slide past. That reminds me - once the top starts to slide, you do have to pull the screwdriver out . Try wiggeling the top as you are pushing it back. You only need to slide it abouta a half of an inch before you pull out the driver. If that doesn't work - well how far are you from San Pedro?

 

Thanks for the continued guidance, but it's still not coming loose. I don't feel a level in there moving at all to even begin sliding the cover. Hrmph! I'm near Universal City in the valley, so San Pedro is less than an hour from me. I appreciate the offer to help, and just might take you up on it. I haven't quite given up yet.

 

Keep us posted. You might just try going back to the dealer and asking if they have a mechanic that can show you how. There is also a good chance they have no clue. My offer stands if nothing else works out - of course, if they have changed the silly thing, I won't be much help either.

 

Thanks for the continued guidance, but it's still not coming loose. I don't feel a level in there moving at all to even begin sliding the cover. Hrmph! I'm near Universal City in the valley, so San Pedro is less than an hour from me. I appreciate the offer to help, and just might take you up on it. I haven't quite given up yet.

There seems to be some kind of disconnect; I would have thought with all the help you would be good by now; I hope the dealer can help you out and let us know what they say for future reference

 

When you insert the screw driver, you are pressing a flat piece of metal that has a tooth on it. When not being pressed, the tooth is locked in a hole. When you depress this flat piece of metal, the tooth is forced out of the hole, thus releasing the cover. Hold the screw driver perfectly straight when inserting it in the rail. When you feel it hit something, that should be the tab you are supposed to be pressing. Lightly apply and release the pressure on the object. If you feel a “spring” type pressure pushing back on the screw driver, you are definitely pushing on the tab. Just press in while you slide back the rail cover. Don’t lift the rail cover, slide it straight back as you depress the tab.

I’ll take off the cover and post pics for you tonight, if I don’t see a success story at some later time today.

Good Luck!

 

The only thing I can figure is that you are not pushing in far enough.
Inserting the tool pushes on the tab which opens the way for the POST
to pass through the opening created. You cannot push too far, as there is a STOP.

 

Nice pics; and the free hand graphics; sometimes you have to see what's inside to get a better understanding

 

BTW, I think the star wrench supplied with the kit works fine to depress the tab.
A flat head screw driver could slip behind the tab as you depress it and get stuck.
Pull straight back (to the rear of the vehicle) on the cover, not up.

 

Those are great pics - I am very impressed :cheers: did you photoshop the graphics on?
by the way, I have always felt that that would be a good place to hide a key - of course you would also have to have a way to get the cover off. I am thinking maybe a 10 penny nail held in place with a small magnet? which you could then use on the cover - or maybe a stick of dynamite.

 

Thank you so much. Great pictures. They confirm how I expected the mechanism should work, and that it really shouldn't be that difficult. They also help me try to feel around in there with the screwdriver to try to find that tab mechanism. Unfortunately, it's still not moving--no spring type pressure anywhere I feel around in there. Something must not be right. I'm going to take it to the dealership and have them remove the covers to see what the problem is. I probably won't be able to take it until Saturday since I want to see how they do it. Stay tuned to find out the dramatic conclusion of man v. roof rail cover.

 

:woot:

Ah ha!!! Mystery solved! It wasn't me. They did change it on the 2009 model.

I took it to the dealer this morning. One of the service reps took a look at it and tried the insert screwdriver and push method, but gave up quickly and asked me to pull it in so one of the techs could look at it. The tech pulled up the service manual, looked at my instructions that came with the cross rails, and even looked at the pictures the Copperhead13 uploaded since I brought them along. The tech tinkered for a while and likewise couldn't feel any sort of spring mechanism. So, they decided they were going to get the cover off even if it meant breaking something and got out the paperwork out just in case the needed to file a warranty claim, but thankfully nothing was broken. The design had simply been changed and no manuals or instructions had been updated to reflect the change. There's no longer a release spring which allows you to slide the cover off.

Now, the covers held on to a couple of posts and just snap on and off vertically with enough pressure. Not knowing this, I had been afraid of breaking some clasp.

And, yes, jsimms, it did turn out to be things where I'm now shaking my head about how simple it was.

Thanks to everyone for suggestions and support. Hopefully this new information saves some other soul from beating his/her head against the wall...

 

:woot:

Ah ha!!! Mystery solved! It wasn't me. They did change it on the 2009 model.

I took it to the dealer this morning. One of the service reps took a look at it and tried the insert screwdriver and push method, but gave up quickly and asked me to pull it in so one of the techs could look at it. The tech pulled up the service manual, looked at my instructions that came with the cross rails, and even looked at the pictures the Copperhead13 uploaded since I brought them along. The tech tinkered for a while and likewise couldn't feel any sort of spring mechanism. So, they decided they were going to get the cover off even if it meant breaking something and got out the paperwork out just in case the needed to file a warranty claim, but thankfully nothing was broken. The design had simply been changed and no manuals or instructions had been updated to reflect the change. There's no longer a release spring which allows you to slide the cover off.

Now, the covers held on to a couple of posts and just snap on and off vertically with enough pressure. Not knowing this, I had been afraid of breaking some clasp.

And, yes, jsimms, it did turn out to be things where I'm now shaking my head about how simple it was.

Thanks to everyone for suggestions and support. Hopefully this new information saves some other soul from beating his/her head against the wall...

My 2009 Saturn Outlook (build date of 12/09/2008) was the same way as yours with two clips and the cover pops straight up. I struggled with this one for a couple hours trying to find the retainer through the small inboard hole - now I know why I couldn't find it. Thanks for posting this!

 

Wow! So I am not weak and Stupid! I didn't feel the spring tension either so I took it the my dealer... They never did tel me how they got them off.

 

Yup, just when out in the garage and had the cover off in about 5 seconds! That's easy. Now I can take off the rails until I need them. Thank you :cheers:

 

Funny, that is three things my 2009 Acadia didn't get updated.
I still have the 4,500 lbs tow capacity, and the 2007-2008 roof rails;
and I got the "corrected" heated washers from the left over 2008 parts. :blob:

Mine is looking more like a 2009ish GMC Acadia.
I guess mine is a "cross over" in more than one way!

BTW: I noticed from your pic that they left the old "structures" in; just didn't add the clamp
and post.

 

For those of you who have been following this post - I have always wanted a place to hide a spare key.
Finally did it. Put a key in a double snackbaggie and placed it under the infamous cover. Plenty of room.
I then used a very small powerful magnet to put a nail in the track of the cargo carrier, so I would always have an handy entry tool. Works great!!!

 

I've got an 09 SLT2 also with the old release system.

My dealer was supposed get a set of rails from another dealership, since I needed them this weekend and he didn't have any in stock. I went to pick them up today, only to find that he received one bar, which was all that the other dealer had. So he offered me the set off the only vehicle on the lot that had them. He felt so bad that he dropped another $20 off the price. He took me over to vehicle to look at the rails and give a quick rundown on how to install them. Of course in keeping with step with the bad luck on the day, we discovered that the rear right side upper t-cover was missing. I wavered briefly, but decided to take them anyway, since we're leaving on a road trip this weekend. I waited 20 min inside the dealership while he removed them. He comes to get me and while we drive back to the shop area he tells me that he's going to purchase them on his account and that way there would be no sales tax either. Of course such generosity seldom comes without some underlying reason. He stripped one of the bolts and the plate nut. He promised he would have replacements for me tomorrow.

Anyway, I went to Home Depot and Advance Auto hoping to find something, with no luck. On top of that I found out that the pin in the upper bolts is a security device and neither of them carried a tool that would work nor had a substitue bolt that I could use. I guess those of you that purchased kits got the necessary tools.

For those of you that might think I'm nuts for taking them in the first place, I ask you. Would you do it for $100 out the door? Of course it might not look like such a bargain when they're sitting in my garage his weekend as we (2 adults and 3 early teens) drive off for FL packed to the ceiling with every nook and cranny filled.

Thanks for letting me share.

 

Can you attach a picture of the bolt's head? By pin, do you mean there was a protrusion in the center of the bolt like this?:

These are called Torx security or tamper proof fasteners and the tools can be found cheaply at Harbor Freight or at Amazon.

 

Thanks Blue, much obliged I'll go over there today. Hopefully, they'll have a replacement bolt also.

Thanks again!

 

As long as you can match the thread, you don't need to use another one of those- I'd go ahead and replace all of them. It's probably a metric thread, which means you need to know the diameter and pitch of the threads, i.e. 8mm x 1.25. A hardware store or Lowes / Home Depot can probably help with this.

Unless the head needs to be the same for clearance or another reason, a hex bolt & washer would probably work. Lowes & Home Depot usually have a selection of metric hardware. If not, I've had good luck with harder to find blots at Bolt Depot. They have a good selection and don't gouge on shipping.

 

Great job- I looked over the PDF & the instructions part was a little fuzzy, but the rest looked very good. Figuring anyone doing this should have the instructions (or if they are a real man they won't need 'em anyway), this shouldn't be critical. I'm going to split and sticky your post to the top of this section.

Thank you for taking the time to document this. :thumb: