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Honestly... feels like what it is, a Chevy with doodads. It has some nice features, good safety adders, decently finished, but the Acadia is nicer for me.
It's immediately apparent that it's a 4 banger, but you should be fine with that power-wise with how light you are on the throttle. Feels and sounds like a 4 though, never owned one, I'll stick with that.
Do not like the non permanently defeatable auto shut off. That's probably common now, but I would avoid it like the plague.
The ride is a bit more harsh if you hit irregularities in the road, it has very low profile 20's, mine has 17's. This is not a Corvette. It should not have 20's IMO. And yet at the same time it is not as firm over speed bumps for example.
The seats are stiff, not much give. Plus being leather they are chilly in the morning at first. I'm not a leather fan. Add that the material is not "rich Corinthian leather" (gotta be older to get that one).
It's a loaner while they're looking at my tranny. I would not trade in any regard.
Thanks for the review. Guess I will have to test drive one. I've rented an XT5 twice and I enjoyed that.
My CTS had 2.0 turbo and it was more than ample power for my needs in a daily driver. A great touring car but just not much room in the trunk.
 

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The XT4 trunk isn't roomy either, but might fit your needs. To be sure, my nitpicks are nitpicks, it's not a horrible vehicle by any means. It's just not for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
So to those who have it, or installed one, are you happier? I'm currently driving a 2020 Caddy which has one. To some degree it's nice. But I find the inside of my hands being nice and warm, but not the backs of my hands or my thumb much. Plus you have to hold on to the wheel with both hands to get the advantage.
I do not find my Acadia steering wheel to feel all that cold, even on the coldest days.
In other words... I can take it or leave it.
For the $120 I spent on the project it was worth it for me. Definitely not a requirement, just something I have wanted.
 

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For the $120 I spent on the project it was worth it for me. Definitely not a requirement, just something I have wanted.
Nothing wrong with that. It's an IDM (it don't matter) option I find unimpressive when selecting my personal ride - like many of the other 'tech toys.' Leather-wrapped matters more to me - the feel and grip is better, IMO. I seldom drive with gloves on my hands.
 

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I'm about to do this for the wife... There are two different clocksprings for the Lambda. One has an extra set of 2 pin connectors for the heated option. One connector plugs into the heated steering wheel module in the wheel and the other has a 7.5 amp fuse holder right before it and it plugs into the steering column harness.

Looking at the schematic for a 2016, the ignition power for the heater runs from the steering column harness back through two different harnesses until it finally reaches power from the ignition main relay under the hood. It isn't fused anywhere besides the one between the clockspring and the connector that goes to the steering column harness.

The pain here is that the wire to feed ignition power isn't in any of the harnesses I previously mentioned in a 2012. I'm somewhat reluctant to pull power from anywhere that is BCM switched (which I think is what the other poster did here). I'm trying to decide if I want to find another switched source like the backup camera circuit, run a new circuit from the ignition main relay, or tap into a BCM ignition source with a relay. I'd rather not pop the hood and see wiring modifications, but this car largely lacks ignition switched power sources. I'll need to think about this more.

I found a 2016 Denali wheel from a JY near me and ordered the clockspring from eBay. The clockspring P/N is 23248442, which replaced 22770354, Also, I ordered the ACDelco pigtail connector that plugs into the clockspring (in lieu of the proper harness). The ACDelco P/N is PT2524 or GM 19367515, which replaced 13574780.
 

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For the $120 I spent on the project it was worth it for me. Definitely not a requirement, just something I have wanted.
Agree. . . not a bad price at all . . . . (y)
 

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Following up... I got this done last weekend. It wasn't too bad. I only had one hiccup where I got complaints from the car, where it disabled traction control and told me to service all those related systems. The code was C0253 which the FSM says is the EBCM yelling about the steering wheel angle sensor. Reading some more in the FSM told me that the car isn't calibrated to the new one that came with the new clockspring. So, I had to swap the old one back (removing it from the old clockspring) to avoid dealer programming. For wiring, I got a micro relay. Remembering that I used a 4 wire cable when I ran wires to the gauge cluster (IPC) when I added the DIC switch (which only needed 3), I decided to leverage the extra wire and pull the ignition signal from back there. It's a pink wire that leads to the 10A airbag fuse, switched by the ignition main relay. For power and ground I cut up and soldered the leads midway into the trailer brake harness (I have the ends connected to my brake controller), for those of us that have V92 (factory tow). It's the one that came in the glove box with the purchase of this wonderful machine when you buy it new that plugs under the dash into X201 by the parking brake lever. This is a 30A circuit labeled trailer brake. I also took the opportunity to finally mount the DIC switch I added many years ago.

Here is a link to the photo album:
 

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Nice job. Plead explain what you said about mounting the DIC switch. Didn't you have one before? Or it was the annoying Capacitive type and you went with a button instead. .
So you have complete steering wheel heat control and indicator lamp with the old clockspring?
 

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Before this, the DIC switch was just chilling by the instrument panel (IP), hanging by the wires when I wired it in years ago (The car didn't come with it.). Picture sitting in the drivers seat and bashing your knee to right against the center of the IP. It was right there where the plastic meets the carpet. If you find the DIC upgrade thread somewhere around this forum, you'll see details of what this upgrade involves. Another poster bought the bracket (the same one pictured here), which is where I got the idea. I cut the hole in the panel and JB plastic weld the trimmed up bracket to the panel. Then you can take a torch (I used mapp gas) to the opening to lightly melt the edges, smoothing the rough cut, and make it look more like it was intended to be there.

Not the old clockspring. New clockspring with the old steering angle sensor. You need the additional set of wires for the new connector as I explained above. One of the pictures shows them separated. They just snap together.
 
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