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my guess is that its more of a short term heat soak issue. next time time your self getting fuel. and try to recreate it with out refueling. see if it does it. 75% sure this is a drive by wire, meaning no throttle cable attached to the petal or throttle plate. uses an electric motor to open the throttle, also acting as an idle control system. if it is dirty, the gunk will shrink faster than the metal(restricting air flow). normally the computer adjusts for this but all its temps will say the engine is still hot(expanded), but the gunk will be cold(shrunk). easy fix would be having your throttle body cleaned out. best bet is to have what is called an upper intake clean. this will do a bang up job of removing all the gunk even past the plates, even from on top of your valves.
most people ignore this issue or let there car sit long enough the rest of the engine cools enough to compensate. but then have big issues when they have their battery replaced at which all pre-learned gunk(air flow) is removed.
 

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Witention said:
my guess is that its more of a short term heat soak issue. next time time your self getting fuel. and try to recreate it with out refueling. see if it does it. 75% sure this is a drive by wire, meaning no throttle cable attached to the petal or throttle plate. uses an electric motor to open the throttle, also acting as an idle control system. if it is dirty, the gunk will shrink faster than the metal(restricting air flow). normally the computer adjusts for this but all its temps will say the engine is still hot(expanded), but the gunk will be cold(shrunk). easy fix would be having your throttle body cleaned out. best bet is to have what is called an upper intake clean. this will do a bang up job of removing all the gunk even past the plates, even from on top of your valves.
most people ignore this issue or let there car sit long enough the rest of the engine cools enough to compensate. but then have big issues when they have their battery replaced at which all pre-learned gunk(air flow) is removed.
The owner reported back that yes, it was in fact the purge valve. A very easy and inexpensive repair that they did themselves.

Remember the adage, KISS!
 

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I have been having these same problems for some time now with our '09 Acadia and finally looked for answers when the CEL came on. I have since changed the purge solenoid after having the code pulled (p0496). I haven't filled up after the part was replaced. The CEL is still on. Should this go off immediately after replacement, or could an additional part have failed?
 

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Berserk said:
I have been having these same problems for some time now with our '09 Acadia and finally looked for answers when the CEL came on. I have since changed the purge solenoid after having the code pulled (p0496). I haven't filled up after the part was replaced. The CEL is still on. Should this go off immediately after replacement, or could an additional part have failed?
give it a few engine COLD engine start cycles to clear.

(many of the OBD tests- are not run every time. Some run only after certain parameters are met)
 

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I'm currently having this issue, my CEL is on, hard start after re fueling. Does anyone know if the purge solenoid covered by the emissions warranty? I still have a year left on that so if it is I might save the $20 and take it to the dealer. Thanks in advance :thumb:
 

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Hi bigbiz187,

Sorry that you are experiencing a hard start and rough idle after refueling your vehicle. I am more than happy to further discuss your situation and assist you throughout the process of working with your dealer if you choose to go that route. Please feel free to send me a private message that includes your full contact information, VIN, current mileage and dealer name and location. I am always happy to help anyway that I can.

Laura M.
GMC Customer Care
 

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I'm having the same issue on my 2011 Denail (95k miles)

The dealer said it's not a drive train part and falls under the emissions warranty (expires at 80k)

I ordered one off Amazon.. AC Delco part for $27 shipped.

It just arrived yesterday so I should know if it works when I have time to install it Saturday.

Same as everyone else reports.. I get a hard no start after refuel even if I stop 5 gallons short of full.

Treat it like a flooded engine and it'll fire right up.

I've been clearing the purge CEL code with my OBD II scanner to keep the remote start working.
 

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I got the valve installed yesterday.
probably the easiest fix ever.

The AC Delco packaged valve I got was made by BOSCH and identical to the OE one I removed.

I gave it a full fill of the tank to test it out..
It started right up without issue with the new valve.. Success!
It also starts faster and MPG is up slightly..

The dealer has it today to do the seat belt recall work.
New Tires tomorrow.
 

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I took my '08 and my mother in laws '13 in for the airbag/seat belt recall recently, and while I was at the dealer I asked about the purge valve. The manager said, and I quote, "The purge valve is considered an emissions part, however, it is not covered under your emissions warranty, your warranty only covers the ECM and catalytic converters". Then they quoted me a price of $220 to replace the valve, to which I responded with uncontrollable laughter and politely declined the offer. I bought a new valve on Amazon for $24.99 (used Discover points and got it free), and the repair took me all of 15 min, which makes their $220 estimate that much more ridiculous. Went to the gas station and topped off my tank to test it out and it works perfectly, used my OBD scanner to clear the code and all is well now. I called GM customer service and asked for an explanation of how an emissions part is somehow not covered by the emissions warranty, they said they would contact the dealer and have them call me, but I never heard a peep from them. At this point I don't care anymore, they've already lost me as a customer with the $3,400 transmission, so it doesn't matter. Anyhow, if anyone else is having this issue just know that the part is cheap and the repair is easy: remove engine cover, remove air intake tube, remove old purge valve (one 10mm bolt), install new valve, put the air intake tube back on, put engine cover back on, enjoy a cold one :beer:
 

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I forgot to mention, this purge valve issue prompted me to buy an OBD II scanner, found a usb one on Amazon for $9 and it works perfectly, plays well with my laptop, just go to Amazon and search "ELM 327 USB OBD II scanner"
 

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I got a Bluetooth ELM 327 scanner and the Torque Pro app for my Android phone.

It works awesome.

I take it with me when I'm looking at used cars and run a scan to see what turns up.
 

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Our 2011 Acadia just started experiencing this issue at 78K miles. Glad I remembered reading this thread. Sounds like it is pretty easy to change, but we still have some time left on our extended warranty and there are few things that need fixing now (why do GMs have such problems with window motors?) so I'll just let them fix it all. :beer:
 

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Just wanted to chime in with this issue in reverse. We have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 that was starting fine after fueling UNTIL we changed the purge valve solenoid and canister. Our CEL has been giving us a guessing-game the last year or two, so when we checked the codes we ordered the purge valve and canister off Amazon just to eliminate the cheap fixes. I'm wondering if we put on a bad one, so we've got the old one on now. We just had the entire gas line replaced, so it's been more detective work finding this issue.
 
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