GMC Acadia Forum banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
A few weeks ago. I let my 2010 Acadia with 94K miles get to about 1/8 a tank of gas. The low fuel light was not on and the car ran fine. After refueling, I had to crank the engine over for maybe 5 seconds when the engine usually starts right away. The engine ran really rough for a few seconds and then died. I tried to restart the car and it just cranked. I sat there for a minute deciding what to do next- call a tow truck or something. I decided to crank it again and give it some gas if it didn't start right away. (Can you tell my first car had a carburetor?) I gave it some gas and it started but still ran rough. Revved it up a couple times and it ran OK so I was on my way. Now my Acadia runs fine until I buy gas. After refueling I have to crank the engine for several seconds and sometimes it takes 2 or 3 attempts to get the car started. Any body ever have this problem? I've been told there is NO fuel filter on this car. Is that true? Think I can get the dealer to check the fuel pressure at the gas station after I fuel?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
186 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,448 Posts
crystal red has it right.

If youre handy you can change that part.

Check those links.. theres also pics on the Outlook forum of someone changing that part
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,567 Posts
So did you top-up the fuel regularly? I'm curious to know if that was the cause.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
I can assure you that it has nothing to do with the purge system. You can unplug that system and the car will run fine. All it does is purge trapped vapors from a charcoal canister under certain atmospheric conditions.

What IS wrong is that you have a foreign contaminant on your fuel tank that is being stirred up and blocking the screen at your fuel pump inlet. After there is no pressure it falls to the back of your tank.

You need to drop your fuel tank and clean it out. Fairly easy to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,448 Posts
all indicators are folks are topping off---
fuel gets into that recovery line- and causes issue with the valve.
once the valve is replaced- starting is back to normal.

Plenty of folks here who have had that issue.
Replacement fixes the problem and if they had the CEL-- it too goes away.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,567 Posts
rbarrios said:
all indicators are folks are topping off---
fuel gets into that recovery line- and causes issue with the valve.
once the valve is replaced- starting is back to normal.

Plenty of folks here who have had that issue.
Replacement fixes the problem and if they had the CEL-- it too goes away.
+1

Seen that issue over and over again around here.

We still don't know if the OP 'topped-off' the tank or not, so it is still just speculation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,567 Posts
TJs07 said:
I can assure you that it has nothing to do with the purge system. You can unplug that system and the car will run fine. All it does is purge trapped vapors from a charcoal canister under certain atmospheric conditions.

What IS wrong is that you have a foreign contaminant on your fuel tank that is being stirred up and blocking the screen at your fuel pump inlet. After there is no pressure it falls to the back of your tank.

You need to drop your fuel tank and clean it out. Fairly easy to do.
If not the purge, you might be correct on this. I've seen clogged fuel pump inlets do this lots of times on all types of vehicles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,127 Posts
TJs07 said:
I can assure you that it has nothing to do with the purge system. You can unplug that system and the car will run fine. All it does is purge trapped vapors from a charcoal canister under certain atmospheric conditions.

What IS wrong is that you have a foreign contaminant on your fuel tank that is being stirred up and blocking the screen at your fuel pump inlet. After there is no pressure it falls to the back of your tank.

You need to drop your fuel tank and clean it out. Fairly easy to do.
There is a solenoid under the hood near the throttle body. This is called the solenoid purge valve and it does go bad, especially seems like if the fuel tank is filled up and topped off. I believe the part is somewhere around $60.00 or so and very easy to replace. Heck one post even said they purchased the solenoid from Auto Zone and had it shipped for a total of $35.00! Car is running great 2000 miles later with no more hard starts after fueling.

A lot cheaper and less labor than dropping the fuel tank when the cause is more than likely this purge valve solenoid.

IF there is contaminate in the fuel tank large enough to block the pick up screen, you have really problems with where you are buying your fuel. It would also cause drive-ability problems during normal driving, not just at start up time. The fuel is being sucked up constantly so if there is crud it would not just block it during start up.

This would be the FIRST time a blocked screen caused the no start after filling that I have heard or read about on all four of the forums (Enclave, Traverse, Acadia, Outlook).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
ls973800 said:
There is a solenoid under the hood near the throttle body. This is called the solenoid purge valve and it does go bad, especially seems like if the fuel tank is filled up and topped off. I believe the part is somewhere around $60.00 or so and very easy to replace. Heck one post even said they purchased the solenoid from Auto Zone and had it shipped for a total of $35.00! Car is running great 2000 miles later with no more hard starts after fueling.

A lot cheaper and less labor than dropping the fuel tank when the cause is more than likely this purge valve solenoid.

IF there is contaminate in the fuel tank large enough to block the pick up screen, you have really problems with where you are buying your fuel. It would also cause drive-ability problems during normal driving, not just at start up time. The fuel is being sucked up constantly so if there is crud it would not just block it during start up.

This would be the FIRST time a blocked screen caused the no start after filling that I have heard or read about on all four of the forums (Enclave, Traverse, Acadia, Outlook).
Old trick, people would ball up a piece of paper and shove it inside a gas nozzle, you fill up and bam, clogged inlet screen. Also remember the old ping pong ball trick? The inlet port isn't that large.

Btw.. I'm sure a vast majority of lambda owners are not on these forums ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
My Ford work truck did the same thing. It would run fine until I filled it up. Purge valve was bad and was allowing pressure to build in the tank and keeping vehicle from starting. Changed the purge valve and truck now starts normal after fill up. :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,127 Posts
TJs07 said:
Old trick, people would ball up a piece of paper and shove it inside a gas nozzle, you fill up and bam, clogged inlet screen. Also remember the old ping pong ball trick? The inlet port isn't that large.

Btw.. I'm sure a vast majority of lambda owners are not on these forums ;)
Well, if something had been placed inside the gas nozzle, the car would not run at all once it got blocked. This is a situation where the car has trouble starting ONLY after filling up. Once started, it runs fine according to the post.

Even though I am sure also that the vast majority of lambda owners are not on these forums, there have been plenty of posts regarding the bad purge valve solenoid as being the cause. Hasn't been one single post about a clogged inlet screen or filter yet.

I still say replace the purge valve solenoid first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I read the link about the purge valve. I am guilty of topping off but I don't have any check engine light on. Most of the others mention a P0496 code with their hard start issue. Does this trouble code always trigger a check engine light?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,448 Posts
I thinks its a matter of time before it sets it.
any Pending codes set?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
75 Posts
TJs07 said:
I can assure you that it has nothing to do with the purge system. You can unplug that system and the car will run fine. All it does is purge trapped vapors from a charcoal canister under certain atmospheric conditions.

What IS wrong is that you have a foreign contaminant on your fuel tank that is being stirred up and blocking the screen at your fuel pump inlet. After there is no pressure it falls to the back of your tank.

You need to drop your fuel tank and clean it out. Fairly easy to do.
TJs07, I don't think that is the problem here. If that was the problem, it would have a problem starting ALL the time. These people are saying it starts hard ONLY after filling the tank. None of them said it starts hard everytime you start the cold engine. I do not agree with your diagnosis. I would agree with the purge valve replacement to remedy the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
Re:

I'd tend to agree that it is the purge valve, especially if the users are topping of their tanks after the pump automatically shuts off.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App[/color]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I have a 2010 Enclave, ~66k miles. The no-start, rough-start thing just started happening about a month back. It happens ONLY after a fill-up. The two times it happened to my wife she did a complete fill-up and had to call me when it did not start. But, with persistence it started. This past weekend I took it in for gas when it was pretty low (low-fuel warning on), but did NOT top it off. Same thing happened again. It sounds really strange when it is trying to start. It started and "coughed" for about 3-4 seconds and then got going fine. I shut it down and restarted without moving the vehicle from the pump. It coughed a bit but not as much and then ran fine. So, this is 3 gas-ups in a row where this happened. Does NOT happen any other time. I just did an experiment while writing this - went out and cranked it. Cranked fine. Opened the gas cap and put it back on - cranked fine. Drove it some and opened gas cap again - cranked fine.

I can't imagine the cause is trash in the gas tank. We have lived in the same place for 15 years and get gas for all our cars from same places - no issues with other vehicles, ever. I suppose there could be some flaw inside the tank that is generating particulates or some type of foreign material.

These cars have the "auto-start" feature which does not require you to keep the key turned to keep the starter engaged. Once it detects the engine turning over on its own, I suppose it tells the starter to disengage. I wonder if there is some problem related to this auto-start feature?

Another potential cause could be a weak battery (probably not), but the car is 4 years old and still has original battery. I'm a ME not EE, but I hear weird things sometime happen with low-voltage (voltage numbers look fine on the gage). Called the Buick dealership and service person does not recall seeing a large number of these problems. She did mention a lot of people have trouble with the gas pump auto-shutting off before the tank is full.

I will look into the other fix that was mentioned (valve of some sort) and see if that might be the cause.

Will write back if I fix it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,448 Posts
its not particles/dirt in the gas...

its the overfilling of the tank- so gas/gas vapors get into this little tube that goes to the engine....
I believe corrosion is present on the valve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
OK. Yes, indeed it was the purge solenoid valve. Part cost $20 on ebay. I created a video of it and posted on YouTube - search for 2010 Enclave Purge Solenoid and FiveYorks (add http in front of this: youtu.be/rTvzHXrmjac). Apparently I am not allowed to post links.

The solenoid is NOT in the same place as the Saturn Outlook. I looked for it from the top and for at least 30 minutes from underneath - looking near the engine, transmission and all around the fuel tank. I thought the part was bigger than it actually was, so I missed it right in front of my face initially. The good news is that it is even easier to get to - right in front on top.

I tested the installed solenoid electrically and it was working (moving the actuator). I suppose that is why the CEL did not come on. However, it let air pass in both off and actuated positions which it is not supposed to do. I'm going to take it apart to see what is going on, but have not done that yet.

Replacing it only takes five minutes (no kidding).

ps. with the old solenoid installed, I tested the theory that you had to fill the tank all the way up, and you do not. I left it at least 5 gallons short and the vehicle still would not start after putting in a less-than-full tank of gas.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top