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... Would you think its easier to remove from bottom with a lift? I'm not really a chevy guy. But it has to be a vin d? ...
An LLT for LLT (VIN code D) engine swap is the least complicated. How you R&R the engine depends on your level of expertise. Dropping the engine/trans cradle from the bottom is the preferred way to do it. Swapping an engine from the top requires a whole lot of dismantling and reassembling of the vehicle's body. The level of effort either way is nearly the same.
 

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Thanks do you know if there's any write up on tearing it out? Its awd so I'm sure it will be worse. Was going to start tomorrow and trying to pre plan and don't want to take off more than needed lol
 

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Thanks do you know if there's any write up on tearing it out?
Not aware of anything that goes into great detail. You might find something to watch on YouTube.
 

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Is there a main point to disconnect the harness? Seems alot of it isn't that bad if you have lift and right tools. Main thing i seen was engine harness and might have a issue with awd thanks
 

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If you come out the bottom you don't have to remove the entire front end. I had to remove everything fender forward. it comes off in less than 2 hours. There are Youtube videos showing both ways. Watch each and make a decision. The 2015 Vin D I found was very close to a total bolt in. I made just a few changes and used the 2011 intake manifold and throttle body. Had to use the 2011 o2 sensors also. The wire harness changed in 2015
 

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Is there a main point to disconnect the harness? Seems alot of it isn't that bad if you have lift and right tools. Main thing i seen was engine harness and might have a issue with awd thanks
Agree with Speleos about tracking down a shop manual. Another option would be to spend a couple bucks on an AllData DIY subscription.

The engine cradle is designed to come out from the bottom. If you have a lift, that is the path I would take.
 

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The facts are in ....

So, I have the facts to put all of you to rest ........ I have made the engine swap in a 2011 with a complete 2017 ( not the new style ) engine..... COMPLETE - manifold to oil pan !!!! And there are just a FEW things that have to be done to make this work SO EASILY...
First - the complete engine assembly is basically the same. The only differences are the upper intake manifold ( also called a plenum ) are the 2011 is a one piece aluminum.... The newer one ( 2012 and up ) is a plastic one. You can just swap your aluminum one over to the newer engine and be done with it, and you are good to go !!! I chose to keep the newer plastic one on, and if you do, these few things are needed: Swap your original throttle body assembly over to the newer manifold and " flip it " 180 degrees ... yes - just turn it upside down. It will function exactly the same - it just lets air in...... AND, you must lengthen the wiring to allow for the connector to come around to the front of the engine where the throttle body connector will be now. There is an aftermarket connector made that has 17" of wiring with it if you want to buy that, I just used extra wiring I have around the garage from other wiring harnesses ... Just make sure you lengthen each one ONE by ONE and solder the wiring connections and put heat shrink tubing over them !!! You do not want poor connections here....... THEN, take the snorkel tube and " flip it " over 180 degrees too... ( the angle of the snorkel tube will now fall in to place to the top of the air filter box ) ..... THEN get some heat resistant vacuum hose and lengthen the pcv hose enough to connect it in a relaxed position.
As far as it goes at this point now - you're done !!!!! It all works just like factory............. DRIVE IT !!!!

Now, I will tell you the other changes in the engine assembly that nobody could answer before, and if you're just going by catalogs / books / part department people, you would never know......
The oil pan is different - but that " difference " is the 2011 pan does not have a low oil level sensor - the newer one does.... SO, you won't hook that sensor up with a connector because the older wiring harness does not have it...... The timing chain COVER has a different part number because the older one does NOT come with a belt tensioner - the newer one DOES.. ( I'm sure as time goes by - they will delete that tensioner and the cover will now cover all the years... Everything on that cover is exactly the same..........
Other than that, when you snake your original wiring harness over to the new engine, some minor differences in how the connectors attach are slightly different, but you'll see how a little modifications can be done so very easily................
THEN - drive it !!!!! Everything purrs like a kitten...... Great acceleration - great throttle response --- so smooooooth !!!!

I'll also add that the actual removal and replacement process of this engine/trans/cradle was done on the ground with 2 jack stands / floor jack / 2 furniture dollies ...... You still need an engine hoist to pull it from the cradle assembly after it's detached from the vehicle - but NO car hoist used ........ I'll put that in another thread later......

I hope that helps all the ones that have ever wondered if / how this is possible, and for God's sake - let's stop the bickering like a bunch of children !!!!!! Some of the people on here act like a child and beat down others like they have no knowledge when they themselves don't know.... How about just saying " I don't know " ?????? peace out.
Hey, I understand the swap will work for 09 and newer direct injected acadias. I have an 08 that I’d like to swap engines with a newer. Is it the same process, or will it not work entirely? Thx
 

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Hey, I understand the swap will work for 09 and newer direct injected acadias. I have an 08 that I’d like to swap engines with a newer. Is it the same process, or will it not work entirely? Thx
It's not that easy to exchange the port-injected LY7 (engine in '07 and '08 Acadias) for a direct-injected LLT ('09-'16). You'll have to be well-versed in computer controls to make it work. At a minimum, the ECM/PCM package and programming are different. You'd be better off making the LY7 to LY7 swap.
 

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Hey everyone I located a 2015 engine locally. Mine is a 2011. It is a vin code d. But they called back saying there where differences and it might not work. I remember seeing something about oil pan. And intake but he did say something about cylinder heads where different? I'm hoping this works cause they will bring it tomorrow. Thanks everyone
 

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If you come out the bottom you don't have to remove the entire front end. I had to remove everything fender forward. it comes off in less than 2 hours. There are Youtube videos showing both ways. Watch each and make a decision. The 2015 Vin D I found was very close to a total bolt in. I made just a few changes and used the 2011 intake manifold and throttle body. Had to use the 2011 o2 sensors also. The wire harness changed in 2015
Ordered one from 2015 it is vin code d. But they said alot of differences including cylinder heads. But this should work right? Thanks
 

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The facts are in ....

So, I have the facts to put all of you to rest ........ I have made the engine swap in a 2011 with a complete 2017 ( not the new style ) engine..... COMPLETE - manifold to oil pan !!!! And there are just a FEW things that have to be done to make this work SO EASILY...
First - the complete engine assembly is basically the same. The only differences are the upper intake manifold ( also called a plenum ) are the 2011 is a one piece aluminum.... The newer one ( 2012 and up ) is a plastic one. You can just swap your aluminum one over to the newer engine and be done with it, and you are good to go !!! I chose to keep the newer plastic one on, and if you do, these few things are needed: Swap your original throttle body assembly over to the newer manifold and " flip it " 180 degrees ... yes - just turn it upside down. It will function exactly the same - it just lets air in...... AND, you must lengthen the wiring to allow for the connector to come around to the front of the engine where the throttle body connector will be now. There is an aftermarket connector made that has 17" of wiring with it if you want to buy that, I just used extra wiring I have around the garage from other wiring harnesses ... Just make sure you lengthen each one ONE by ONE and solder the wiring connections and put heat shrink tubing over them !!! You do not want poor connections here....... THEN, take the snorkel tube and " flip it " over 180 degrees too... ( the angle of the snorkel tube will now fall in to place to the top of the air filter box ) ..... THEN get some heat resistant vacuum hose and lengthen the pcv hose enough to connect it in a relaxed position.
As far as it goes at this point now - you're done !!!!! It all works just like factory............. DRIVE IT !!!!

Now, I will tell you the other changes in the engine assembly that nobody could answer before, and if you're just going by catalogs / books / part department people, you would never know......
The oil pan is different - but that " difference " is the 2011 pan does not have a low oil level sensor - the newer one does.... SO, you won't hook that sensor up with a connector because the older wiring harness does not have it...... The timing chain COVER has a different part number because the older one does NOT come with a belt tensioner - the newer one DOES.. ( I'm sure as time goes by - they will delete that tensioner and the cover will now cover all the years... Everything on that cover is exactly the same..........
Other than that, when you snake your original wiring harness over to the new engine, some minor differences in how the connectors attach are slightly different, but you'll see how a little modifications can be done so very easily................
THEN - drive it !!!!! Everything purrs like a kitten...... Great acceleration - great throttle response --- so smooooooth !!!!

I'll also add that the actual removal and replacement process of this engine/trans/cradle was done on the ground with 2 jack stands / floor jack / 2 furniture dollies ...... You still need an engine hoist to pull it from the cradle assembly after it's detached from the vehicle - but NO car hoist used ........ I'll put that in another thread later......

I hope that helps all the ones that have ever wondered if / how this is possible, and for God's sake - let's stop the bickering like a bunch of children !!!!!! Some of the people on here act like a child and beat down others like they have no knowledge when they themselves don't know.... How about just saying " I don't know " ?????? peace out.
Thanks for the info. Did you use your original injectors or new ones? I heard someone saying there where slight differences in fueling. But maybe that was using the old manifold. Also what about exhaust I heard some saying modify the down pipe? My daily 2011 blew and just got a 2015 coming Thursday and hoping to swap it quick. Thank you. Did you also use the old 2011 ecu? I heard someone say differences there also thanks.
 

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Ok Everyone did the swap. Put a 2015 vin d 40k in it. Went pretty easy used the new intake but used old throttle body flipped 180. Old wiring was used. Exhaust was fine. Used old o2 sensors with new manifolds. Runs great! I did get one code that popped up today p0420 had about 60 miles on it before it came out and a few ignition cycles. It was raining hard tho also. I used the 2015 injectors. I swore somewhere there was a post about fueling being different? I'm thinking that could be the issue. I haven't loaded up tuning software to check fueling yet. Can anyone shed some light on injector differences? Thanks.
 

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.. Can anyone shed some light on injector differences?.
GMPartsDirect shows fuel injector part numbers changed in 2012. Don't know what that could mean overall. Both the 2011 and 2015 engines are direct-injection.
 

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I heard someone saying fueling was slightly off. Not sure if thats where the issue is yet. Guess I'll know more when I put tuning software on it
 

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Hey Acadia forums. I might have the perfect mix of access and knowledge to answer this question. I am an owner of a 2010 Acadia SLT and I also happen to sell auto parts engines included for a living. if you'd like to swap a 13-16 engine into a 2010 you need to swap the intake manifold and the oil pan. If for some reason you'd like to put a 2009 engine into a 2010 you'd need to change the front cover.

Hope this helps. If anyone needs a engine for this car I can ship nation wide feel free to reach out.
I need a engine please contact me at 1 902 314 6401
 

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I need a engine please contact me at ...
Welcome to the forum.
That member hasn't been on the forum for a few years. They left after refusing to follow vendor rules.
 

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I am doing my 2011 Acadia now that needs a new engine at 138,000 miles, I bought it broken. Like yours the cam sensors have lots of metal in them. My timing chains and tensioners look OK. I kept searching and the source in my 2011 engine failure was Rod Bearing failure. The inside of the engine is pretty clean so they changed the oil frequently but must have run it low on oil to cause the rod bearing failure.

I found a 2015 engine complete and I'm getting ready to install it now. Waiting for a couple seals I want to replace. The 2015 O2 sensors do have a different plug but the 2011 O2 sensors fit right in the exhaust. As you mentioned the Oil Level sensor on the 2015 can be ignored without any issues. The 2015 has aluminum valve covers, look better than the 2011 plastic covers. The 2011 Intake manifold is aluminum and shorter than the 2015 plastic intake manifold so I will stick with the 2011 intake manifold in my swap.

Mine is a 4wd model so I had to pull the tranny and transfer case with the engine, I pulled it out the top. Lots of work but should be a straight forward install. You are correct on the number of bolts and nuts, hundreds of them, the number of electrical connections, ground wire connections is amazing, must be 100 or more. I have not started my install but will soon and report back. Changing the AC compressor because I found a leak on the old one. Also need to fix the Power steering high pressure connection it has a leak. Hope it helps someone.
What mod did you have too do too the 2015 valve covers too fit on the 2012 engine.
 

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It has been a while since I did this job and I sold the vehicle now but it was running like brand new after install. The valve cover mod was really simple. I seem to remember there was a harness that clipped to the top of the valve cover. The 2011 had a boss that was threaded to receive this harness bolt down. The 2015 looked the same but the boss was not threaded. 2011 was plastic and had self tapping screws if I remember correct. The 2015 was set up identical but made of aluminum and the boss was not tapped for threads. I do not remember if I tapped the 2015 cover with a tap or if I used a self tapping screw, I am thinking I used a tap and made threads for a screw. It is a very minor issue. I have set of taps and a variety of screws at home so I am pretty sure that is how I fixed it. I do have a good scan tool and there was no fuel issue with the 2015 injectors used in the 2011 vehicle. It ran perfect and got great gas mileage. The injection pump in these engines is a very expensive part, I would not consider putting the old part on the new engine. There is no need to change the Oil Pan or Timing Cover at all. I used the Intake just to keep it looking the same and everything bolted up the same. The aluminum intake is not going to wear out ever but a plastic intake can warp and fail over time. The 2015 passed smog with flying colors although I wished I had purchased new O2 sensors when the 2015 sensors could not be used. The engine was so new it was dumb to put sensors back on that had 134,000 miles on them.
 
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