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@Ronjh12! Thank you kindly for this precious information, not to raise the dead (post) but I'm rolling up y sleeves today to do the same swap from a 2015 Acadia to a 2010 Traverse that is mint, ...well except for the shrapnel in the cylinders and oil....and the crankshaft that wont budge, even with a 3/4" breaker bar and a 3' cheater.

Anybody have advice as to how one would get their torque converter back from a completely seized engine? I can get to one bolt. Have tried everything even shaving down an open end with a grinder to fish it in there. By the time it is thin enough to make the squeeze it isnt stout enough to break the bolt loose haha.

My best guess is to pull the bottom end apart and release the rotating assembly from the rods. Seriously, wide open to suggestions.

I will be swapping over the aluminum intake manifold as I dont have a cover that fits the plastic one, am planning on using the new(er) throttle body to avoid cutting into this beautiful, completely intact (I seriously lucked up there) wiring harness.

Cheers,
Alex
 

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@Ronjh12! ...
Anybody have advice as to how one would get their torque converter back from a completely seized engine? ...
I believe the torque converter just slides into the transmission. Try pulling the transmission off the seized engine. That could work. Either that, or drop the oil pan and remove the caps for whatever bearings have seized the engine so you can turn it.
 

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The torque convertor should slide on to the output shaft of the transmission, but it should also bolt to the flywheel. If the trans can't be unbolted and pulled away from the motor, thus leaving the TC bolted to the flywheel, then the only option is to remove the oil pan and disassemble the bottom end. Assuming I am right about the TC bolting to the flywheel, and I am not saying I am 100% sure, I would not risk damaging the trans in any way by attempting another method. With any luck, you can get into the bottom end enough to free up whatever is preventing the crank from turning.
 

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@Ronjh12! Thank you kindly for this precious information, not to raise the dead (post) but I'm rolling up y sleeves today to do the same swap from a 2015 Acadia to a 2010 Traverse that is mint, ...well except for the shrapnel in the cylinders and oil....and the crankshaft that wont budge, even with a 3/4" breaker bar and a 3' cheater.

Anybody have advice as to how one would get their torque converter back from a completely seized engine? I can get to one bolt. Have tried everything even shaving down an open end with a grinder to fish it in there. By the time it is thin enough to make the squeeze it isnt stout enough to break the bolt loose haha.

My best guess is to pull the bottom end apart and release the rotating assembly from the rods. Seriously, wide open to suggestions.

I will be swapping over the aluminum intake manifold as I dont have a cover that fits the plastic one, am planning on using the new(er) throttle body to avoid cutting into this beautiful, completely intact (I seriously lucked up there) wiring harness.

Cheers,
Alex
According to this engine chart, as long as you get the LLT 3.6L as provided in the 2009 to 2016 Acadia, you should be ok. Again, as others have stated, best to keep the old engine around in case mounting brackets and other bits had changed.

2007–20083.6 L LY7 V6275 hp (205 kW)251 lb⋅ft (340 N⋅m)6-speed 6T75
2009–20163.6 L LLT V6288 hp (215 kW)270 lb⋅ft (366 N⋅m)
20173.6 L LGX V6310 hp (231 kW)271 lb·ft (367 N·m)6-speed 6T70
 

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So, as far as you know --- up to 2016 it's all the same ????? Cuz in the interchange searches, it's 2007-2009 / 2010-2012 / 2013-2015 ........ I know the 2007-2009 is not Direct injection - so that makes sense, but what's changed in the 2013-2015 ???? And maybe up to 2016 included..........
Who say 2009 is nop direct injection a you sure about that?
 

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Who say 2009 is nop direct injection a you sure about that?
The correction was made in posts after that. 2009 was the first year for 3.6L GDI engines in Acadia.
 

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Hey Acadia forums. I might have the perfect mix of access and knowledge to answer this question. I am an owner of a 2010 Acadia SLT and I also happen to sell auto parts engines included for a living. if you'd like to swap a 13-16 engine into a 2010 you need to swap the intake manifold and the oil pan. If for some reason you'd like to put a 2009 engine into a 2010 you'd need to change the front cover.

Hope this helps. If anyone needs a engine for this car I can ship nation wide feel free to reach out.
Hey Acadia forums. I might have the perfect mix of access and knowledge to answer this question. I am an owner of a 2010 Acadia SLT and I also happen to sell auto parts engines included for a living. if you'd like to swap a 13-16 engine into a 2010 you need to swap the intake manifold and the oil pan. If for some reason you'd like to put a 2009 engine into a 2010 you'd need to change the front cover.

Hope this helps. If anyone needs a engine for this car I can ship nation wide feel free to reach out.
Have a 2007 acadia can I replace it with a 2011
 

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Have a 2007 acadia can I replace it with a 2011
Not without modifications to the electronic components, especially the ECM/PCM. The 2007 is a port-injected engine, the 2011 is direct-injected. Your best bet is to locate an LY7 variant of the V6.
 

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I have an 08 acadia, owned it 1 year, replaced the engine once already and timing chain went on this one now. I have no interest in putting in another piece of SH** LY7 engine. How much electronic work is needed? Is it just replace the ecm with one for that current year? I wish i could swap in an old 3800 series 2 engine, those were great. Why did they abandon that design? Too good?
 

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... How much electronic work is needed? Is it just replace the ecm with one for that current year? ...
Won't be that simple. Engine harness, fuel supply, etc., etc. are all different.
 

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The facts are in ....

So, I have the facts to put all of you to rest ........ I have made the engine swap in a 2011 with a complete 2017 ( not the new style ) engine..... COMPLETE - manifold to oil pan !!!! And there are just a FEW things that have to be done to make this work SO EASILY...
First - the complete engine assembly is basically the same. The only differences are the upper intake manifold ( also called a plenum ) are the 2011 is a one piece aluminum.... The newer one ( 2012 and up ) is a plastic one. You can just swap your aluminum one over to the newer engine and be done with it, and you are good to go !!! I chose to keep the newer plastic one on, and if you do, these few things are needed: Swap your original throttle body assembly over to the newer manifold and " flip it " 180 degrees ... yes - just turn it upside down. It will function exactly the same - it just lets air in...... AND, you must lengthen the wiring to allow for the connector to come around to the front of the engine where the throttle body connector will be now. There is an aftermarket connector made that has 17" of wiring with it if you want to buy that, I just used extra wiring I have around the garage from other wiring harnesses ... Just make sure you lengthen each one ONE by ONE and solder the wiring connections and put heat shrink tubing over them !!! You do not want poor connections here....... THEN, take the snorkel tube and " flip it " over 180 degrees too... ( the angle of the snorkel tube will now fall in to place to the top of the air filter box ) ..... THEN get some heat resistant vacuum hose and lengthen the pcv hose enough to connect it in a relaxed position.
As far as it goes at this point now - you're done !!!!! It all works just like factory............. DRIVE IT !!!!

Now, I will tell you the other changes in the engine assembly that nobody could answer before, and if you're just going by catalogs / books / part department people, you would never know......
The oil pan is different - but that " difference " is the 2011 pan does not have a low oil level sensor - the newer one does.... SO, you won't hook that sensor up with a connector because the older wiring harness does not have it...... The timing chain COVER has a different part number because the older one does NOT come with a belt tensioner - the newer one DOES.. ( I'm sure as time goes by - they will delete that tensioner and the cover will now cover all the years... Everything on that cover is exactly the same..........
Other than that, when you snake your original wiring harness over to the new engine, some minor differences in how the connectors attach are slightly different, but you'll see how a little modifications can be done so very easily................
THEN - drive it !!!!! Everything purrs like a kitten...... Great acceleration - great throttle response --- so smooooooth !!!!

I'll also add that the actual removal and replacement process of this engine/trans/cradle was done on the ground with 2 jack stands / floor jack / 2 furniture dollies ...... You still need an engine hoist to pull it from the cradle assembly after it's detached from the vehicle - but NO car hoist used ........ I'll put that in another thread later......

I hope that helps all the ones that have ever wondered if / how this is possible, and for God's sake - let's stop the bickering like a bunch of children !!!!!! Some of the people on here act like a child and beat down others like they have no knowledge when they themselves don't know.... How about just saying " I don't know " ?????? peace out.
Big thanks to you and salvageman for supplying the information I needed to proceed with a 2014 engine into a 2010 (enclave). Also thanks to Winnipeg Engine | Specializing in Rebuilt Engines for Diesel & Gas Trucks for offering a 2007-2008 engine and a 2009-2016 engine on the website. This information helped to confirm for me that the long block was the same.

I did not record the process very well but I will try to give the best information from what I recall.

I do not have a lift so I did it from the ground. The one option I have seen is lifting the car up high enough to remove the engine. I was not interested in this option though. I had just finished fixing up a 2013 that was in a front end collision, so I was familiar with how the front end comes apart. So I just removed the bumper, headlights, front fender liners, rad support, etc. Its about 2 hours but then you can get at everything on the engine quite nicely. Removal/installation of the engine cradle was so much nicer this way to. Hardest part is installing the wiring harness, I did learn from my first one and marked the spots where the harness clips go. Also, I broke a bolt off in a front impact sensor trying to remove, just disconnect the wiring harness instead. The one side is very hard to see how it is clipped in, look at the one on the other side as the harness is on the top. Put any bolt you take out back where you got it from whenever possible, label all others in bags. Mark the lower strut mount holes around the bolts. This is how camber is adjusted and if you don't want to do a wheel alignment after, put back exactly where they were.

-The intake and oil pan are indeed different. Don't touch the oil pan if you are going from newer year to older car - it has the sensor as previously said, it will just remain empty (no wire harness to plug in). The intake is different, I just unbolted the old one and installed on newer engine with a new gasket. If you are ordering a gasket, order for the older engine (I think they are different)
-I transferred the wiring harness over. I did not check for differences, just knew that that is what came out, so it will go back in.
-The o2 sensors had different plug (unless you transfer the old exhaust system over. You can either transfer the o2 sensors over or I just undid the pins from the connector and transferred them over to the original plugs. 2 of the wires are the same color so I did not observe pin location for these and had no issues. Just make sure to get the other 2 right. I believe all i removed is the rear cat. The rest of the exhaust stayed bolted on. I purchased new gaskets for that and the connection for the exhaust that is still on the car. One of the gaskets is a "crush" gasket on the cat, so i don't think reusing the old one would be good (its a round one). The other 2 gaskets are flat and could probably be reused. I think I had to remove the rear cat to remove the transfer case.
-I believe the a/c compressor had to be reused from the old one. There is a mounting bracket that needed to be swapped over as well.
-The belt was also a different length so use the original one. It is a very small change but i did get the newer belt on. Because it seemed to be to tight, i looked up the numbers online and they were different.

After I had everything back together, it started right up and ran great. I was going finish installing the front end when I thought I would check for any engine codes. I was using a blue driver code reader. A P0008 came up. GREAT! After some research i thought I was going to have to pull the engine again and do the timing chains. I was not expecting this as the chain issues shouldn't be in the 2014 engine. I left the car for quite some time not sure what to do. I tried changing the oil, cam sensors and cam solenoids. No change. I came across some info on how the code sets. it should throw and engine light after so many seconds. I did not get an engine light at anytime. I checked the ecu with another code reader (more expensive) and the same code shows up. I then checked it with a $20 code reader and no code on that one. Not sure why I thought this but I decided to set an engine code so I could see the engine light come on. I unplugged the maf sensor and the engine light came on. I then cleared all codes with the blue driver and now I have not seen the P0008 come up gain and have been driving the car for several weeks. As I purchased the car not running, I was not sure what took the engine out. Best guess would be that code was from the previous engine. Very strange how it wouldn't clear until I gave the ecu another code to set the light. The cam solenoid was covered in metal filings so it was likely the timing chain. The solenoid was also very brown compared to the newer engine of the same kms (170,000). Likely due to improper oil changes. My understanding is keeping the oil clean in these 3.6L, is vital to keep the timing chains in good shape (2010 and on anyways).
The PCV hole on the 2014 was larger then the 2010 - check you tube for videos on modifying this. Small holes were plugging. My 2013 has the small holes and I will either check every oil change to make sure is clear or do the mod. Important to check oil level regularly as oil is lost through this system. Timing chain damage will occur with low oil. And...don't follow the oil life monitor. There is an update out to reduce the time but I wouldn't even trust it with that. Oil/filter is a lot cheaper then an engine or chains.
 

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I am doing my 2011 Acadia now that needs a new engine at 138,000 miles, I bought it broken. Like yours the cam sensors have lots of metal in them. My timing chains and tensioners look OK. I kept searching and the source in my 2011 engine failure was Rod Bearing failure. The inside of the engine is pretty clean so they changed the oil frequently but must have run it low on oil to cause the rod bearing failure.

I found a 2015 engine complete and I'm getting ready to install it now. Waiting for a couple seals I want to replace. The 2015 O2 sensors do have a different plug but the 2011 O2 sensors fit right in the exhaust. As you mentioned the Oil Level sensor on the 2015 can be ignored without any issues. The 2015 has aluminum valve covers, look better than the 2011 plastic covers. The 2011 Intake manifold is aluminum and shorter than the 2015 plastic intake manifold so I will stick with the 2011 intake manifold in my swap.

Mine is a 4wd model so I had to pull the tranny and transfer case with the engine, I pulled it out the top. Lots of work but should be a straight forward install. You are correct on the number of bolts and nuts, hundreds of them, the number of electrical connections, ground wire connections is amazing, must be 100 or more. I have not started my install but will soon and report back. Changing the AC compressor because I found a leak on the old one. Also need to fix the Power steering high pressure connection it has a leak. Hope it helps someone.
 

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Before I determined the engine bearings had failed I pulled the timing cover off and valve covers, inspected the Intake Valves at 138,000 miles the back of the intake valves you see when looking down the manifold were built up with carbon like Tee Pee's. This was choking off the intake flow and I bet power was down on this engine at least 30% due to lack of flow. Something to think of. There are treatments known to help knock off this carbon build up in these direct injected engines. The 2015 engine at 34,000 miles only had a minor amount of build up. Maybe 3% of what I found on the 2011 engine. Use the proper oil and change it regularly to keep these engines alive.
 

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I finally fired up the 2015 3.6 Vin D in my 2011 Acadia. Smooth and quiet I am happy. Have not driven it yet, still need to recharge the AC system, it had a pesky leak I had to chase down but it is now being evacuated. If it holds I will charge the system tomorrow. Fingers crossed. I installed a new compressor on the new engine due to a previous leak at the compressor.

As far as this job goes, it is not for the weak at heart. There are so many wire connections, bolts and nuts on this job. More than on any I have done in the past. I had the engine fully ready to install Monday, Tranny connected, Transfer case connected and the wire harness fully attached to the engine. It actually slipped into the car pretty easily and I worked alone no help. I went very slow to avoid ripping any wires or damaging anything. Installing the transmission motor mount was a chore. I ended up dropping the frame support an inch or so to get it in place.

I had left the power steering pump in the car. If I had a do over I would have disconnected the power steering lines and taken the engine out with the pump attached. Well, this part was done because I pulled apart the timing cover which made me pull the power steering in advance. Once the timing cover was off the old engine I found engine bearing material in my oil pan. Then I pulled the old engine knowing it needed a full rebuild. I bet I spent 4 hours getting that power steering pump back in place. I had to loosen the fluid lines to get it to swivel into place. They must have moved pulling the engine out. The 2015 does fit in the 2011. There are some modifications, use the 2011 intake manifold and throttle body and the upper end will bolt up fine. The 2011 valve covers differ slightly but with a minor mod the 2015 valve covers worked fine and I liked them better, they are aluminum not plastic. The 2015 flywheel looks different but it works in the 2011 just fine. I did verify that the aftermarket flywheels/flexplate use the same part number for both engines. Hooked up the code reader after running it for an hour, everything looks great so far. No check engine codes at all. I changed the tranny fluid and transfer case fluid at the same time, before I take it off jacks I plan to change the brake fluid and rear diff fluid so all fluids in the rig will be new.

When I went to disconnect the heater hoses at 138,000 miles one just broke off in my hand. When I went to put the replacement fitting in the T broke in half also. Gates and Dorman make these pieces so I was able to replace them, my hoses were still in great shape, those plastic connections I was not happy with. Something to think about if you have a 10 year old car it is a breakdown waiting to happen. Also found 2 of the 3 motor mounts broken and the 3rd had already been replaced.

I bet half the time I spent was trying to remember what wires go where, which bolts to use in what holes etc. I used about 20 small buckets and about 20 small sandwich bags to separate bolts and parts. I should have used double that. Unfortunately I tore apart the old 2011 engine in the car, all those bolts and nuts came off separately and engine and chassis bolts and nuts were mixed. Now I bought the new engine which was complete and I had to determine what bolts and nuts I needed. I should have put the old engine back together first so all those bolts were gone and out of the way. Lesson Learned. I wrote on the bags where they came from but short notes, I should have written better notes it would have sped things up a lot.

Now I just hope it runs great for a long time. Hope this helps some of you facing the same issue. There is a Youtube showing how to remove the transmission in an Acadia that was really helpful and gave a nice technique to follow to remove the engine tranny and transaxle at once.
 

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Hey Acadia forums. I might have the perfect mix of access and knowledge to answer this question. I am an owner of a 2010 Acadia SLT and I also happen to sell auto parts engines included for a living. if you'd like to swap a 13-16 engine into a 2010 you need to swap the intake manifold and the oil pan. If for some reason you'd like to put a 2009 engine into a 2010 you'd need to change the front cover.

Hope this helps. If anyone needs a engine for this car I can ship nation wide feel free to reach out.
Do you have an engine for a 2009 acadia?
im in sarasota
7325136679
jim
 

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Do you have an engine for a 2009 acadia?
That member won't be back. Search the member's screen name on the 'net and you'll find a website where you can contact them.
 

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I have the 2011 Engine from my Acadia, the heads are good, timing in decent shape but the crankshaft needs to be looked at, I think it has Rod Bearing Failure. Did not pull it apart yet.
I installed the new engine to save time.
 

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Hopefully someone can help. 2011 transverse got it a few months back knew it needed a timing chain but tried to baby it till I got more customer stuff done. Well today it snapped and siezed. I have a lift and everything bodyshop and do motor swaps,etc. Mostly jeep and Ford stuff. Its vin D any idea what vins I can use? I seen some newer camaro motors cheap like 900 with 30k. Mine is the awd version. And this was my daily driver. One of the hp tuner guys I know said this can't be done but I'm seeing post pop up that it can be. Also is it easier with motor out the top or bottom? I know all data showed like 16 hours r&I and from the comments people say this job is a bear :( I'm in Florida in rainy season now driving 1000 hp mustang with slicks and no wipers home lol. Thanks everyone!
 

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Either way you do this job, it is hard. A lot of bolts and nuts. If the timing chain failed you may have damaged valves, maybe not. I did a leak down test on mine after it failed, my leak down test showed all valves were perfect. I took apart the front of the engine to change out the timing components but found a rod bearing in my oil pan. So I replaced the engine. Any Vin D will work, must be direct injected as the heads are different on Direct Injected engines. I used a 2015 as stated above in my 2011 and it worked out really well, had 34K on it. Notes are on this forum. I pulled it out the top because I don't have a lift. Lots of bolts and nuts to manage. More than any job I have done in the past. In my case I wasted a ton of time pulling the timing apart, removed the intake manifold and cleaned the build up off the back of the intake and exhaust valves and then found I needed a complete engine. In your case it sounds like you know you have timing chain failure so that job can be fixed in the car if your valves are not bent.
 

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Its locked up came to a light and shut off. Tried moving with breaker bar and its not moving. Would you think its easier to remove from bottom with a lift? I'm not really a chevy guy. But it has to be a vin d? So I'm guessing a camaro engine won't work. I seen someone say impala. Seems people want a arm and a leg for these engines :( thanks
 
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