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The manufacturer is usually a more reliable source of information.
 

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agree to disagree its a pointless argument to take part in.

The only thing that really matters here is if you'd like to use a newer lower mileage engine and you have your orgional engine still (i always suggest keeping your core until the new engine is in and working) there are no real significant issues in doing so.
 

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It might be a good idea for @admin2 to approach you about becoming a forum sponsor. Unless you're a legitimate Acadia owner, attempting to sell things in the middle of a forum discussion isn't much appreciated by many members.
 

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i bought a 2010 Acadia SLT last wednesday. If most members here are like you please kick me out I'm not interested in helping people with with such temperments. good bye
 

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You probably have a lot of Acadias like that sitting around waiting for someone to buy parts from you.
 

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A decision is in admin's court, now.
 

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i bought a 2010 Acadia SLT last wednesday. If most members here are like you please kick me out I'm not interested in helping people with with such temperments. good bye
Most members are NOT like him, most of us here appreciate different views, angles, knowledge and opinions. The "Ignore" button works great and it has been used MANY MANY times regarding this member. Stick around, it's a good forum...and spelos, in my opinion you're out of line...AGAIN! Reply to me all you want now, I don't have time to get into pishing contest with you, just stating my opinion!
 

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It's been taboo for retailers to try and slip their business dealings into forum posts since the day this forum started. The mods and admin took care of keeping almost all of them at bay. Many left of their own free will after numerous member complaints - not just from me! A few of them turned around and became legitimate forum sponsors.
 

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Most members are NOT like him, most of us here appreciate different views, angles, knowledge and opinions. The "Ignore" button works great and it has been used MANY MANY times regarding this member. Stick around, it's a good forum...and spelos, in my opinion you're out of line...AGAIN! Reply to me all you want now, I don't have time to get into pishing contest with you, just stating my opinion!

I have since used said button. thanks :)
 

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My feelings are really hurt! :hilarious: Just know that any time someone wants to baffle the crowd with BS and I find facts to refute it, those facts will be posted. In absence of facts, the BS is only conjecture or personal preference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
The facts are in ....

So, I have the facts to put all of you to rest ........ I have made the engine swap in a 2011 with a complete 2017 ( not the new style ) engine..... COMPLETE - manifold to oil pan !!!! And there are just a FEW things that have to be done to make this work SO EASILY...
First - the complete engine assembly is basically the same. The only differences are the upper intake manifold ( also called a plenum ) are the 2011 is a one piece aluminum.... The newer one ( 2012 and up ) is a plastic one. You can just swap your aluminum one over to the newer engine and be done with it, and you are good to go !!! I chose to keep the newer plastic one on, and if you do, these few things are needed: Swap your original throttle body assembly over to the newer manifold and " flip it " 180 degrees ... yes - just turn it upside down. It will function exactly the same - it just lets air in...... AND, you must lengthen the wiring to allow for the connector to come around to the front of the engine where the throttle body connector will be now. There is an aftermarket connector made that has 17" of wiring with it if you want to buy that, I just used extra wiring I have around the garage from other wiring harnesses ... Just make sure you lengthen each one ONE by ONE and solder the wiring connections and put heat shrink tubing over them !!! You do not want poor connections here....... THEN, take the snorkel tube and " flip it " over 180 degrees too... ( the angle of the snorkel tube will now fall in to place to the top of the air filter box ) ..... THEN get some heat resistant vacuum hose and lengthen the pcv hose enough to connect it in a relaxed position.
As far as it goes at this point now - you're done !!!!! It all works just like factory............. DRIVE IT !!!!

Now, I will tell you the other changes in the engine assembly that nobody could answer before, and if you're just going by catalogs / books / part department people, you would never know......
The oil pan is different - but that " difference " is the 2011 pan does not have a low oil level sensor - the newer one does.... SO, you won't hook that sensor up with a connector because the older wiring harness does not have it...... The timing chain COVER has a different part number because the older one does NOT come with a belt tensioner - the newer one DOES.. ( I'm sure as time goes by - they will delete that tensioner and the cover will now cover all the years... Everything on that cover is exactly the same..........
Other than that, when you snake your original wiring harness over to the new engine, some minor differences in how the connectors attach are slightly different, but you'll see how a little modifications can be done so very easily................
THEN - drive it !!!!! Everything purrs like a kitten...... Great acceleration - great throttle response --- so smooooooth !!!!

I'll also add that the actual removal and replacement process of this engine/trans/cradle was done on the ground with 2 jack stands / floor jack / 2 furniture dollies ...... You still need an engine hoist to pull it from the cradle assembly after it's detached from the vehicle - but NO car hoist used ........ I'll put that in another thread later......

I hope that helps all the ones that have ever wondered if / how this is possible, and for God's sake - let's stop the bickering like a bunch of children !!!!!! Some of the people on here act like a child and beat down others like they have no knowledge when they themselves don't know.... How about just saying " I don't know " ?????? peace out.
 

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... for God's sake - let's stop the bickering like a bunch of children !! ...
The flap was about a commercial enterprise entering the forum conversation and trying to sell things without proper admin permissions and becoming a forum sponsor. It's entering forbidden territory. Contact the Gurley (AL) man for all your junk yard needs. :devil:
 

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BTW, pics of the swap and all "minor" mods would have made your 'job complete' post golden!
 

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Thanks for the update and related info ronjh12, I'm sure it will be of help to anyone looking to do this project...
 

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So, I have the facts to put all of you to rest ........ I have made the engine swap in a 2011 with a complete 2017 ( not the new style ) engine..... COMPLETE - manifold to oil pan !!!! And there are just a FEW things that have to be done to make this work SO EASILY...
First - the complete engine assembly is basically the same. The only differences are the upper intake manifold ( also called a plenum ) are the 2011 is a one piece aluminum.... The newer one ( 2012 and up ) is a plastic one. You can just swap your aluminum one over to the newer engine and be done with it, and you are good to go !!! I chose to keep the newer plastic one on, and if you do, these few things are needed: Swap your original throttle body assembly over to the newer manifold and " flip it " 180 degrees ... yes - just turn it upside down. It will function exactly the same - it just lets air in...... AND, you must lengthen the wiring to allow for the connector to come around to the front of the engine where the throttle body connector will be now. There is an aftermarket connector made that has 17" of wiring with it if you want to buy that, I just used extra wiring I have around the garage from other wiring harnesses ... Just make sure you lengthen each one ONE by ONE and solder the wiring connections and put heat shrink tubing over them !!! You do not want poor connections here....... THEN, take the snorkel tube and " flip it " over 180 degrees too... ( the angle of the snorkel tube will now fall in to place to the top of the air filter box ) ..... THEN get some heat resistant vacuum hose and lengthen the pcv hose enough to connect it in a relaxed position.
As far as it goes at this point now - you're done !!!!! It all works just like factory............. DRIVE IT !!!!

Now, I will tell you the other changes in the engine assembly that nobody could answer before, and if you're just going by catalogs / books / part department people, you would never know......
The oil pan is different - but that " difference " is the 2011 pan does not have a low oil level sensor - the newer one does.... SO, you won't hook that sensor up with a connector because the older wiring harness does not have it...... The timing chain COVER has a different part number because the older one does NOT come with a belt tensioner - the newer one DOES.. ( I'm sure as time goes by - they will delete that tensioner and the cover will now cover all the years... Everything on that cover is exactly the same..........
Other than that, when you snake your original wiring harness over to the new engine, some minor differences in how the connectors attach are slightly different, but you'll see how a little modifications can be done so very easily................
THEN - drive it !!!!! Everything purrs like a kitten...... Great acceleration - great throttle response --- so smooooooth !!!!

I'll also add that the actual removal and replacement process of this engine/trans/cradle was done on the ground with 2 jack stands / floor jack / 2 furniture dollies ...... You still need an engine hoist to pull it from the cradle assembly after it's detached from the vehicle - but NO car hoist used ........ I'll put that in another thread later......

I hope that helps all the ones that have ever wondered if / how this is possible, and for God's sake - let's stop the bickering like a bunch of children !!!!!! Some of the people on here act like a child and beat down others like they have no knowledge when they themselves don't know.... How about just saying " I don't know " ?????? peace out.
Thank you for this info Ronjh12! I successfully swapped a 2017 engine into a 2012 without any issues. The later engines for some reason are significantly cheaper with far less miles. My Acadia runs mint! Now to replace the rack that just started leaking smh...
 

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BTW, pics of the swap and all "minor" mods would have made your 'job complete' post golden!
I agree! But congratulations on your successful transplantation! I love hearing stories like this!
 
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Hello !!! Have a very similar instance.... Have a 2011 with a seized engine... Need to find out if a newer year engine ( 2016-2017 ?? ) will work in there ???? What possibly has changed with the newer years that might have to be swapped ?? I have done this before with other vehicles with minor modifications and worked great..... I have also found local engine shops that say this CAN be done, but won't give the particulars about exactly what is needed ( obviously to keep the business with them ) ... But someone has to know more about this swap....... Looking for that particular information before I buy that newer engine...... Anybody know ????? ?
Did you do this engine swap? Did it work and what had to be swapped over?
 

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Did you do this engine swap? Did it work and what had to be swapped over?
Welcome to the forum.
You'll find answers to your questions in reply #31 above.
 

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the engines are the same, differense is the timing cover just transfer it or use a later year belt, the oil pan has a oil level sensor which you do not need just leave it alone, the intake is diferent, crank sensor is the same,
use your wiring harness, other than that is the same engine, the ignition coils are different. the exhaust manifolds looked the same, its was early 2019 when i did it so cant remeber every detail but it was pretty straight foward just a little more work but very easy. same engine till 2016, after that its a different engine engine. So the only thing you want to change is the belt, ignition coils, intake manifold and exhaust manifold every thing else is the samel.
 
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