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GMC Acadia Denali 2011:
Bought a new battery last year, lasted about 6 months after which remote start stopped kicking in then starting the car from the inside would stutter a lot before finally kicking in. Changed battery through warranty as the alternator is good and charging well but the battery on testing was poor. Anyway, new battery put in 4 days ago and this morning remote start will not happen and starting the car with key resulted in some stuttering again before finally kicking in the 3rd attempt. What is going on? Alternator is good. We found that that the rust proofing device was taking in too much so disconnected that unit a year ago. Any of you found this issue with your car?
 

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"Rust proofing Device "?

I guess a check for parasitic battery drain is still in order.
 

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What is a "rust proofing device?"
It's a low-power impressed current device attached somewhere on the vehicle to prevent metal oxidation or galvanic corrosion. Someone posted years ago that it caused battery problems on their Acadia.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A rust proofing device is a small is it placed in the car that helps prevent oxidation, just as Speleos mentioned. This is supposedly used to help prevent rent forming on the chassis and rest of the car. Did not seem to work for me but it came with the car. It is always running even when car is off. It gets very cold here and worthy eh snow we thought it was a good thing to have.
this morning it was stuttering to start again and remote start did not work. The car recognized the signal to start, tried and just stopped.
 

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Check for something else draining the battery... or somehow you got 2 duds, unlikely though.
 

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Check for something else draining the battery... or somehow you got 2 duds, unlikely though.
Will do. From all that i have read, looks like that may be whats remaining. Will update once I get some info. Thanks everyone.
 

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GMC Acadia Denali 2011:
Bought a new battery last year, lasted about 6 months after which remote start stopped kicking in then starting the car from the inside would stutter a lot before finally kicking in. Changed battery through warranty as the alternator is good and charging well but the battery on testing was poor. Anyway, new battery put in 4 days ago and this morning remote start will not happen and starting the car with key resulted in some stuttering again before finally kicking in the 3rd attempt. What is going on? Alternator is good. We found that that the rust proofing device was taking in too much so disconnected that unit a year ago. Any of you found this issue with your car?
I have a 2011 and have had battery problems for sometime. When it started it would happen when it was cold, while driving the battery would die, unable to jump would have to recharge it in a charger. This would happen then it would be fine for a couple months as soon as it was cold it would do it again. I bought multiple new batteries. There are no lights on to read out. At this point a full charged battery will die quickly while driving, it has to be an electrical problem. I literally drive with 3 batteries so I change them out once they die.
 

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If it dies while you are driving it there has to at least be al alternator problem.

George
 

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I wonder if it is a wiring issue. Could it be something was 'shorting' the circuit and sucking out the juice from the battery? Not to forget they did find the anti rust unit doing this to the battery. Could they have missed something else? Is it possible for circuit problems where wires could be shorting the connections?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If it dies while you are driving it there has to at least be al alternator problem.

George
I have a 2011 and have had battery problems for sometime. When it started it would happen when it was cold, while driving the battery would die, unable to jump would have to recharge it in a charger. This would happen then it would be fine for a couple months as soon as it was cold it would do it again. I bought multiple new batteries. There are no lights on to read out. At this point a full charged battery will die quickly while driving, it has to be an electrical problem. I literally drive with 3 batteries so I change them out once they die.
I wonder if it is a wiring issue. Could it be something was 'shorting' the circuit and sucking out the juice from the battery? Not to forget they did find the anti rust unit doing this to the battery. Could they have missed something else? Is it possible for circuit problems where wires could be shorting the connections?
 

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I wonder if it is a wiring issue. Could it be something was 'shorting' the circuit and sucking out the juice from the battery? Not to forget they did find the anti rust unit doing this to the battery. Could they have missed something else? Is it possible for circuit problems where wires could be shorting the connections?
It is indeed possible on a used vehicle to have some other electronics installed by a previous owner.
A good inspection for wire taps, black electrical tape or wire that doesn't look "factory" might be in order.
(y)
 

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I have a 2011 and have had battery problems for sometime. When it started it would happen when it was cold, while driving the battery would die, unable to jump would have to recharge it in a charger. This would happen then it would be fine for a couple months as soon as it was cold it would do it again. I bought multiple new batteries. There are no lights on to read out. At this point a full charged battery will die quickly while driving, it has to be an electrical problem. I literally drive with 3 batteries so I change them out once they die.
Your vehicle could have a pinched wire somewhere near a harness mount, light fixture, or some other screwed-to-the-body component. It might not be shorted enough to blow a fuse, but just a nuisance drain on the battery that took time to show itself. Somebody found a situation like that years ago and it took a long time to figure out. See if you can find that post and read about the trouble and what it took to resolve it.
 
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