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We have a 2011 Acadia SLT-1 with 40K miles. The other day the engine stalled 4 or 5 times while driving at fairly low speed. There were no warning light on and no power loss (dashboard was still on). Only thing happened was engine shutdown and power steering off. Each time it happened I managed to quickly start the car by switching to parking. Wife was scared to death, and we couldn't imagine if this happened while driving on highway. Sent the car to dealer for two days but they couldn't repeat the issue and didn't see any error codes. Now wife refused to drive the car. I have driven it for close to a week now and still nothing happened. We don't know what to do now and really didn't want to part ways with Acadia (We love the car and it never gives us any issue other the engine stall).

My question is have any of you experienced this issue before, and if you did, what have you done to resolve it? I googled and saw several cases like this with Enclave but not much on Acadia. If this is so rare, then maybe it is possible that it is a computer glitch (dealer said they reset those things just in case) or some loose connections (for example, during service some connectors were not installed properly by the dealer). We did have oil change and a power steering pump recall (it was not even a recall, but something dealer said is optional to replace for free) several weeks ago, but I doubt they have anything to do with engine stall. Any suggestions are welcome. It is more of an issue of confidence level we have on driving the car. If it looks like it may just be a one time deal (and somehow get fixed accidentally) then we really want to keep the car and continue driving it, but if it is intermittent and will probably happen again, we may consider sell the car. Thank you all for the help.
 

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the Acadia, Enclave, Traverse... will be the same thing.

1) has the battery been replaced recently?
if not..
2)has the battery been disconnected recently...

I would think possibly so, since it was serviced.

3)When this happened, was your AC running?
4)+ you were traveling at low speed-
5)you may have been making a turn (turning steering wheel).

This is something that Ive seen on past Chevrolets/GMCs- on the Traiblazer/Envoy...
and something that happened to me....

Hopefully its as simple a fix as it is on the Trailblazers.

WHen I experienced it- I had recently disconnected the battery (30 or so minutes).
I had not cleaned the Throttle body on this vehicle.
At slow speed, like turning into driveway, or making a right turn, WITH AC ON....
the engine shut off.
No CELs,
Engine always started right up.

The issue?

The dirty throttle body.
the low engine speed,
the AC compressor putting a load on the engine,
the driver turning the steering wheel (PS pump) putting more load on the engine....

The battery disconnect caused learned parameters for the throttle body to be lost.
the throttle body- being dirty responds slower. and the computer/engine cant respond fast enough to the load on the engine--- and it shuts down.

THe fix.

Disconnect battery for 30 or so min.
Clean the throttle body ($5 can of throttle body cleaner). simply spray the butterfly and move it to loosen crud buildup.

and that was it...

Once this was done-- the engine no longer shut off. even with AC and low speed turns etc.

Im thinking this may be what is happening to you....
its worth a try..
the cleaner is only $5.
and its very easy to clean. (I now clean my throttle bodies at every oil change since that little scenario with my TB).

http://www.acadiaforum.net/index.php?topic=8789.0
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The AC was not running when it happened, but I was traveling at low speed, in one case making a turn onto a highway ramp, in another driving in a parking lot at very low speed. A third one was while I was waiting for traffic light and it just shut down quietly. A month before this happened, the car was serviced to replace power steering pump assembly per special policy 14329 (no issue with power steering but did it because dealer said there is no charge). Maybe this combined with a dirty throttle body led to the engine stall - the dirty throttle body's slow response to the new driving condition after power steering service led to engine shut down? However, the engine shut off without hesitation (or at least it was quick enough that I couldn't really check the rpm to see any struggling), just like turning the key off - I would imagine some kind of hesitation if it is a dirty throttle. Anyway, it happened 4-5 times in a day, and hasn't shown up since, including when it was at the dealer's for fix. I will definitely try cleaning the throttle body and disconnect the battery. It will only help.

Anyone else experiencing or hearing of this issue before? Could it be a ignition switch issue as in the older models, or an ECM issue? I am thinking of having a different dealer look at it, but not sure what will happen if it doesn't show up when it is at the dealer's.
 

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Check your battery connections to be sure they are tight.
 

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zzchen76 said:
...
... I am thinking of having a different dealer look at it, but not sure what will happen if it doesn't show up when it is at the dealer's.
You won't get anything 'fixed' if they can't find out what's wrong. It's incumbent on you to figure out conditions under which the failure occurs and communicate (or show) this failure to the service center writer/foreman. If they're presented with something that simply "happens sometime," the techs probably won't be able to duplicate the problem. All you'll do is waste time and money - both yours and theirs.
 

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+1 on battery connection. We had an experience of sudden shutdown too and turns out bad connection on battery port so I cleaned it out and replaced the cable.
 

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Re:

For what it's worth, disconnecting the battery will not affect any parameters for the DBW throttle system. There are default parameters stored in the ECM, and as the car is driven, it will adapt as needed. I replaced the battery in my Outlook and had no issues with the throttle system causing stalls or other engine loads causing the engine to stall. Anyway, if you have the first design throttle body that came with the LLT's (not the plastic one that now comes standard on all lambdas) the PCV blowback that occurs there will cause a small amount of oil to get in. I don't believe this has anything to do with your issue unless it stumbles like it's struggling and then dies.

Long story short, it sounds a lot like the battery connection. Make sure both terminals are tight and that the vent hose is connected to the side of the battery properly.

I can second cleaning the throttle body. You can never overdo it when it comes to vehicle maintenance.
 

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Bumping this old post because I'm seeing what appears to be the same issue:

1 - At a coast almost at a stop, when hitting the gas there is a massive pause and then surge of accelleration. The transmision has always been a little jerky in these situations, but this is something different and more pronounced.

2 - At some percentage of stops the car will stall. No dash or gauge issues, engine just dies and can be immediately restarted.

No codes or any other errors or lights.

I've seen this same problem posted on the Enclave and Traverse forums as well. Unfortunately, not a single person with the problem after came back to post a resolution.

While I may start with cleaning the throttle body and checking over connections, one poster on the other lambda forum stated the throttle body was not the issue (but never returned to say what was).
 

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Hi everyone,
I'm bumping this chain as well. As mine is now doing the same thing. But, I figured out something that wasn't mentioned.

History:
2011 Acadia 114K miles. Rod failure, replaced engine from GM. $$$$$
After 12K miles on the new engine. Driving during normal highway/city conditions. Engine would surge like if shutoff for a split second but not actually stay off. Almost like I hit the brakes extremely quick. So it jerked with loss of power. RPMs dropped to 0 and came back. Would do this once or twice a day.
Sometimes after this happened and coming to a stop. Engine would stall. It does start back up. No codes like others stated.
Once it stalled when I was slowly turning left from a stop sign.
I have checked/replaced coils, spark plugs and cleaned the throttle body and MAF. Engine runs really well. But issue still remains.
I decided to drive the car different. More or less baby it. I would drive it normal but purposely not let the RPM's get above 4K.
The jerking and stalling never came back after driving it like this for a week.
The only thing I notice now is a whining like the power steering pump is going out. But, only whining with the RPM's and not when you turn the wheels stopped or moving.

Is it possible if the power steering barrings are seizing because of higher RPMs which then stops the belt from turning? I would expect a loud belt squeal in that case. But wanted to see if anyone else had this problem.

After dropping $5K for the new engine. I don't plan on getting rid of the car as the fix.
 

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you hit 4000 RPMs in your typical driving? wow.
I would also expect squealing if the pump seized and cause slippage.
 

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Yes,
When getting onto an interstate. You have to get up to speed which is usually 75MPH. Most roads in my daily commute averages 65MPH.
During cruising speeds. My RPM's are around 1200-2000 RPMs depending on the speed. But getting up to speed, yes. The engine would see 4500-5000 RPM's. Sometimes 6000 if I have to pass someone.
 

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Might want to check out the other belt-driven pulleys, too. A bad idler or tension arm pulley could whine and make the belt squeal. They could potentially cause a stall at idle if they're bad, as well.
 

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All pulleys are good except that the power steering pump is leaking. Make more sense that it's whining. But I don't suspect it would cause the shutters and engine to stall.
 

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So, I don't seem to have any power steering issues with mine. I did review video I took of the stalling and I did have it up to 3800 RPM or so a few times. I'm going to try to keep the RPMs down and see if that helps with me as well.

I took it to the dealer, who obviously did not know what to do with no codes, so they threw a new throttle body on it (under warranty) as a "guess". I'll see if it happens again.
 

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All pulleys are good except that the power steering pump is leaking. Make more sense that it's whining. But I don't suspect it would cause the shutters and engine to stall.
Belts may squeal if the power steering fluid has contaminated the belt path. It may not even look wet or feel like oil is on the belt or surface. Even a light film of fluid on the belt and pulley might cause some squeal.
Also,once contaminated, it is near impossible to clean it of since it soaks into the belt running surface. The leak should probably be fixed, pulleys cleaned with a degreaser and new belt installed. How old is the current belt?
 

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The belt was new with the engine. so only several months old.
I see . . . well, the steering pump leak may still be the cause what with fluid that may deposit on the belt and pulleys. You may not even see or feel it by wiping the belt wit a cloth you could maybe see some.
Otherwise, you could try some spray on belt dressing. if that quiets the squeak, then you know where it's coming from?
 

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Ok, finally getting somewhere.
Going back to a slipping belt. No belt slip. Power Steering leak is coming from behind the pump housing. Will have to remove this in order to have 100% confirmation. Driving the car last Thursday. I noticed my volts dropped to 12.5 and the alternator was not charging the battery. After turning the engine off and back on. The volts went back to 14.7 on the gauge. From here I don't trust the alternator. Over the week I swap out the alternator with a rebuilt one. Just because I cannot see myself paying $450 for a new one. The $165 is a gamble for a rebuilt one, but at least it comes with good warranty.
Swap the alternators out and the problem with the engine bucking and stalling is finally gone! But, of course the rebuilt alternator has issues. When giving it gas so the alternator is under load. The volts will drop from 14.7 to 12.5 until I let off the gas and it will go back to 14.7. This doesn't make me feel comfortable because if I'm going up the mountains, will the engine stall because the battery could be drained. I will swap out another alternator and will let everyone know.
 

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I hope all your alternator changing won't be done in vain. Have you read this portion of the owner's manual?

"When the engine is not running, but the ignition is turned on, this gauge shows the battery's state of charge in DC volts. When the engine is running, this gauge shows the condition of the charging system. The vehicle's charging system regulates voltage based on the state of charge of the battery. The voltmeter may fluctuate. This is normal. Readings between the low and high warning zones indicate the normal operating range. Readings in the low warning zone may occur when a large number of electrical accessories are operating in the vehicle and the engine is left idling for an extended period.

If there is a problem with the battery charging system, a SERVICE BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM message will appear in the Driver Information Center (DIC) and/or the charging system light comes on. See Battery Voltage and Charging Messages on page 5‑37 for more information. However, readings in either warning zone may indicate a possible problem in the electrical system. Have the vehicle serviced as soon as possible."

Of course, the volt gauge will show high right after starting the car. The starter motor is the single biggest draw on a car's battery. The alternator works hardest to bring the battery back to its normal charge state immediately after engine start.
 
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