GMC Acadia Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Okay, I’m at about my last nerve with this POS. I’ve had this car for about a year and it has had constant problems non-stop. It’s too bad, because it’s a nice looking vehicle.
It has 179k miles as well.

Anyway, so far I have codes (p0023, p0024, etc) still present which apparently turn on the traction control flashing and now it’s showing service air bag as well. The stupid bose amp doesn’t work so we have no radio either. But those are whole other issues I’ve been dealing with.

The AC has now apparently gone out. The clutch engages, but then immediately disengages.
I hooked up one of those A/C recharge kits thinking it may have low Freon, but the Freon level is at around 50psi already so the Freon is fine. But still the clutch engages and disengages nonstop.

What could be causing this? Would this have anything to do with the traction control warning due to it probably being In limp mode? The AC was working before so I don’t think that would be he case. I had a problem with the dealership who apparently caused my computer to die on their watch so I had to buy a new one for them to reprogram. After we picked it up, the A/C stopped working right as it would blow cold on the drivers side and hot on the passenger side. The dealership said it wouldn’t have been anything they did. They weren’t aware of any programming that needed to be done for A/C either. So after searching online I replaced the passenger side blend door actuator, but the clutch is still just clicking on for a few seconds before it shuts off then just keeps cycling like that. I have also tried the manual programming by removing the fuse and that doesn’t work either.

Any help would be appreciated as I’m about ready to just drive this thing off a cliff and collect the insurance pay out at this point, I’m so done with this thing. 😩
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,077 Posts
With a near 14 year old vehicle and also having work done on it I would check electrical connections under the hood and also. . . .. check the battery cables closely. Corrosion can creep under the cable ends, the clamps can get weak and only make contact in a potion of the clamp after several (many?) loosen-tighten operations.
The "Service Traction Control" message can come on for any number of reasons. It is a "catch-all" alert used for many failures some unrelated to traction control.
Also, check the fuse box under the passenger side foot well area for corrosion. . . look behind it as well and pull a few fuses and reinsert to verify there is no dull, white or other colored corrosion.

As long as you are checking the battery cables. . . . and ground points under the hood and chassis . . .. leave the negative cable disconnected and see if the issues go away for a short time.

Also, you mentioned oil leaks and engine rattle. That is not a good sign. The timing chain may need replacing or worse.
Buying a used vehicle over +10 years old is always a gamble and on any +2005 year old vehicle the electronics, engine control systems and many sensors/electrical connections often are near impossible to easily remedy. The days of shade tree repairs in the back yard or garage sadly are long gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
With a near 14 year old vehicle and also having work done on it I would check electrical connections under the hood and also. . . .. check the battery cables closely. Corrosion can creep under the cable ends, the clamps can get weak and only make contact in a potion of the clamp after several (many?) loosen-tighten operations.
The "Service Traction Control" message can come on for any number of reasons. It is a "catch-all" alert used for many failures some unrelated to traction control.
Also, check the fuse box under the passenger side foot well area for corrosion. . . look behind it as well and pull a few fuses and reinsert to verify there is no dull, white or other colored corrosion.

As long as you are checking the battery cables. . . . and ground points under the hood and chassis . . .. leave the negative cable disconnected and see if the issues go away for a short time.

Also, you mentioned oil leaks and engine rattle. That is not a good sign. The timing chain may need replacing or worse.
Buying a used vehicle over +10 years old is always a gamble and on any +2005 year old vehicle the electronics, engine control systems and many sensors/electrical connections often are near impossible to easily remedy. The days of shade tree repairs in the back yard or garage sadly are long gone.
I installed a new alternator, new battery (no corrosion there), replaced all camshaft sensor and all 4 camshaft actuators. I did notice one of the plugs to the camshaft sensors looked damaged. I saw a mention in a post of someone actually damaging one while putting in an alternator before, not sure if this is the case with me. Although I’m not a 100%, but I think the 23 and 24 codes started shortly after I installed the alternator. Still not sure about that as the traction control has been on and off for almost as long as we’ve owned it. I went ahead and bought two new camshaft sensors plugs to replace that one and maybe another one to see if this helps, will be installing those soon. It’s been so many things on this vehicle that I’ve lost count. It’s a nice looking vehicle, but has been the worst one problem wise that I’ve ever owned sadly.

Do I need to remove the fuse box by the foot well or just inspect the fuses themselves?

Also what would cause the A/C clutch to be so intermittent?
Appreciate the help on this. 👍🏻
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
You mentioned the gauge was showing 50 psi, was that when the compressor was running? Your description sounds like the compressor is going off on the low pressure switch, then builds up static pressure when its off and then makes back to run, indicating low on refrigerant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You mentioned the gauge was showing 50 psi, was that when the compressor was running? Your description sounds like the compressor is going off on the low pressure switch, then builds up static pressure when its off and then makes back to run, indicating low on refrigerant.
My apologies. Yes the 50psi reading was when the compressor kicks on, after it kicks off it goes down to around 9psi or so… then it kicks on again and goes back up to around 50psi (45-50). It just keeps repeating this over and over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Your 50 psi is when it is off, when it runs your pressure drops to the 9 psi and shuts down, then the pressure rises and makes the pressure switch to let it run again. Low on charge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,077 Posts
My apologies. Yes the 50psi reading was when the compressor kicks on, after it kicks off it goes down to around 9psi or so… then it kicks on again and goes back up to around 50psi (45-50). It just keeps repeating this over and over.
The A/C pressure switch may be malfunctioning. But if replaced I imagine the system will need evacuating and charging again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Your 50 psi is when it is off, when it runs your pressure drops to the 9 psi and shuts down, then the pressure rises and makes the pressure switch to let it run again. Low on charge.
So you are saying it actually is low on refrigerant?
The instructions didn’t explain it like that.
So when it drops below 50psi it is when the clutch is engaged and then shuts off when it realizes the refrigerant is low?
I really hope this is the case because that will be great if that’s all it is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
The pressure switch is doing what it is suppose to do. With compressor running, A/C on high, the low side should be around 35-40 psi at a fast idle, not 9.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Okay, I’m at about my last nerve with this POS. I’ve had this car for about a year and it has had constant problems non-stop. It’s too bad, because it’s a nice looking vehicle.
It has 179k miles as well.

Anyway, so far I have codes (p0023, p0024, etc) still present which apparently turn on the traction control flashing and now it’s showing service air bag as well. The stupid bose amp doesn’t work so we have no radio either. But those are whole other issues I’ve been dealing with.

The AC has now apparently gone out. The clutch engages, but then immediately disengages.
I hooked up one of those A/C recharge kits thinking it may have low Freon, but the Freon level is at around 50psi already so the Freon is fine. But still the clutch engages and disengages nonstop.

What could be causing this? Would this have anything to do with the traction control warning due to it probably being In limp mode? The AC was working before so I don’t think that would be he case. I had a problem with the dealership who apparently caused my computer to die on their watch so I had to buy a new one for them to reprogram. After we picked it up, the A/C stopped working right as it would blow cold on the drivers side and hot on the passenger side. The dealership said it wouldn’t have been anything they did. They weren’t aware of any programming that needed to be done for A/C either. So after searching online I replaced the passenger side blend door actuator, but the clutch is still just clicking on for a few seconds before it shuts off then just keeps cycling like that. I have also tried the manual programming by removing the fuse and that doesn’t work either.

Any help would be appreciated as I’m about ready to just drive this thing off a cliff and collect the insurance pay out at this point, I’m so done with this thing. 😩
Have you checked the AC clutch relay ? Super common to stick at first and eventually fail completly.. easy way to test it is to swap with one of the relays next to it.. more then likely you should have 4 that are the same in the under hood fuse box. Just don’t forget which one you swapped with
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top