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Discussion Starter #41
I’m sorry. I was measuring resistance having pulled out the rear hatch bulbs completely... I pulled out all of my overhead bulbs... front, middle, rear and hatch and measured resistance at each location for the gray/blk to be about .6 to .7ohms... i also disconnected the rear hatch completely and measured to the pint of disconnect and had same reading. Very frustrating. I expect there is a short somewhere. I guess given all of this would you gentlemen agree that the shirt has to be on that gray/blk line? I’m a bit of a novice... but I believe that the way a short works is that somewhere along that gray/blk it’s either running about wire or frame and it’s resulting in less resistance which would cause the power to choose that path rather than continuing to each of the lights? Is it logical to the following? The short must exist on that gray/blk wire and it has to be after the fuse box but could be going to any of the doors, headlight switch or dome/hatch lights?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
One thing I can think that I’m not sure if could be related but I know my wife’s seat heater does not work on drivers side.. I would expect that to not be an issue as it would be in entirely different circuit but I do wonder if that info could help a bit. I’m taking a look at the component file now to try make sense if this... but I’m not the sharpest when it comes to this stuff!! :)
 

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The seat heater is different. Another time. Yes your short is somewhere in the Gry/Blk wire. I posted the component locator. The wiring for the hatch goes from the BCM to connectors X202 then to X903 then X940. The last connector in that line is in the hatch. If you feel ambitious you can remove the trim on the hatch, disconnect the connector and see if the short clears. You can follow the harness and connector routing through the component locator PDFs. Good Luck.
I see you disconnected the hatch connector? At what connector?
 

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Did you check the resistance from the removed connector at the BCM to ground with all the bulbs removed?
There is one connector, down by the passenger foot console area. If you could access that connector and disconnect it then try readings or power to installed overhead lamps, that will separate the hatch from the overhead lamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Ok... i has put everything back together but with the recent guidance I have decided to soldier on... I’m going to rip into this again and see if I can narrow this down now that you have showed me how to read the component diagram info you provided. :). I guess I will start with x202 and disconnect and check resistance there to BCM, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Well, I pulled the x202 and measured resistance from there to BCM and all was good.. this was after I realized my cheap meter does not zero but starts at about .3 ohms. :). I then measured from x202 to rear panel lamps... and I had about .6 ohms (is adjusting for my meter this was maybe .3 of resistance... so I then pulled apart rear panel and measured to x903... still had .6 ohms.. so then I started pulling down the headliner in rear enough to see wires go down the drivers side rear corner. I tapped into wires there to still get .6 ohms..... as I continued to take off that Interior trim to follow gray/blk I found this (picture). The gray/blk wire had been shorted against a clip (this is the clip for the screw under the cap that says airbag) near the top of the pillar. It’s about the same level as the gas shocks that support the rear hatch attach to the car. I pulled wire away from clip and tested resistance and all looked good. I called wife out to show her the wire and said I’m certain this is the issue but we are going to test this together!!! Connected up the x202, x903, BCM... turn key to ON and we have interior lights!!! It has literally been maybe 7-8 years like this. I paid a shop that i had do work once to at the same time try to find the issue and after a couple of hours they said they thought it was likely BCM but I did not want to pay the $400 at the time for new BCM, etc... all I guess I needed was a little guidance from you all to push me thru this!! Thanks Speleos and a very special thank you to “Electbc”.. you are awesome!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Last post for anyone that may experience a similar situation. I would think this clip could like cause issues for many and this would be a bit of a gremlin situation. In the attached you can see the difference from the previous photo in the thread. I put this clip on my grinder and took off the sharp edge that was cutting into the wire. I also them used a rasp to dull the edge... but lastly I taped up the wires good in that area of the pillar to also provide a little protection. My wife started thinking back and she believes that maybe these issues started for us back after she brought the car into dealer for warranty work on the rear struts. I do not recall but that seems plausible that maybe in that process they pulled the wires a little too close to this clip and that eventually caused this short. Note, this is definitely an area I’d suggest for others that may have similar issues to check as that clip really has a sharp edge and is right next to the wires. It’s pretty easy to pop off that cover that says “airbag” and remove the screw.. them pop off the upper trim on that back drivers side corner (that has the seat belt going thru it) and just check in this area for a short. Take care!!
 

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I usually do ask if there was any work done just prior to when a problem appears, but going back 7-8 years who remembers. I wouldn't think that they would need to disturb the wiring to replace the struts, but you never know. That is a lousy design, I always hated those sharp edged metal clips, disasters waiting to happen. That harness should have had at least some tape wrapped around it in that area. Anyway, glad you got it fixed.
Now, about that heated seat, you should wait till dead of winter when the wife will really give you some Extra Credits.
There are several options for the wiring diagrams.




The option codes are printed on a sticker on the inside of the glove box door.
First check if the fuse is good, if it is and you never had to replace it, them possibly the pad element is open, not shorted.
If the passenger side is good, you can take resistance measurements and compare them between driver and passenger sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Thank you... yes I should wait for the dead of winter to look at the seat heater but here in MN that can get pretty rough!! She went thru most of this last winter with the issue and she was not too happy. :). I checked the sticker and if interpret the codes correctly I believe mine will be your middle post. I see both codes A45 and KB6 codes on my sticker. I will get under the seat and check resistance of both driver and passenger across similar wires. Hopefully I can interpret the diagrams well enough to make sure to test the correct wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Thanks.. I think I will spin up a new post regarding the seat heater issue that I have. I looked thru everything I could find and the closest post that I feel I have found is this one.


but I don’t see that this was followed thru to resolution. I did dig into the seat heaters a bit yesterday.... I had everything removed for both driver and passenger (to compare resistance as passenger is currently working). I also had the leather nearly completely off on the drivers side... but stopped at point of pulling the hog clips... as I felt that was a pint of no return. :). I thought before I do that I really want to be certain that it’s an electrical issue in the grid first. Originally I was thinking I could quickly remove the grid and just visually see and test... but it’s quite involved. Anyways I will start a new post and hopefully be able to trace thru to resolution. Thx
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Here is new post.

 
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