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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
please can you guys help me for the overheating issue in my 2008 Acadia,
i had the thermostat changed, water pump changed and coolant level is the same at all time, but driving slowly or during traffic jams, the temperature gauge goes up 2 or 3 dashes from 100 degrees Celsius mark. even climbing a very low inclined hill, it overheats. what could be the problem, and proposed solution please, before I go and pay more money for the mechanic.

as well I hear a bearing or pully noise, though i changed the tensioner the serpentine belt.
 

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How many miles, how well maintained? I would suspect clogged water passages or some sort of blockage in the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How many miles, how well maintained? I would suspect clogged water passages or some sort of blockage in the radiator.
230,000 KM almost 142915 Miles. well maintained oil changes before it's due time, and always changing the oil filter. no leakages spotted all options and systems seems to be working fine.
what could i do in case clogged water passages? or radiator blockage?
I guess flushing will not help, should I replace the radiator ?
 

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... coolant level is the same at all time, ...
Coolant level in the coolant recovery (expansion) tank should change when the engine temperature changes. The tank is marked "Full Cold" and "Full Hot." You should notice coolant level changes between these marks when you stop after driving fo a while if the cooling system is working properly. Before first start of the day, check that the recovey tank level is at "Full Cold" and the radiator is full of coolant. Once you drive somewhere (a good, long trip), stop and look at the coolant level in the recovery tank - it should be near the "Full Hot" mark. If that coolant level hasn't changed, it could be an indication the radiator cap has gone bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Coolant level in the coolant recovery (expansion) tank should change when the engine temperature changes. The tank is marked "Full Cold" and "Full Hot." You should notice coolant level changes between these marks when you stop after driving fo a while if the cooling system is working properly. Before first start of the day, check that the recovey tank level is at "Full Cold" and the radiator is full of coolant. Once you drive somewhere (a good, long trip), stop and look at the coolant level in the recovery tank - it should be near the "Full Hot" mark. If that coolant level hasn't changed, it could be an indication the radiator cap has gone bad.
the radiator cap was damaged yes, and we replaced it as well.
many thanks
 

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the radiator cap was damaged yes, and we replaced it as well.
many thanks
Are you using the proper mix of coolant and water? It should be a 50/50 mix in order for the cooling system to function properly. Any other mix ratio will cause the gauge to fluctuate and make it seem there's a problem with the vehicle.
 
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...the temperature gauge goes up 2 or 3 dashes from 100 degrees Celsius mark. even climbing a very low inclined hill, it overheats...
What is the actual temperature? No idea what 2 or 3 dashes past 100C means. Is this something new? Did it happen over time, or suddenly? Did you do anything before it started?
 
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Why don't you tell people you live in a part of the world where the ambient daytime temperature can get close to that inside an air-fryer? lol
 

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230,000 KM almost 142915 Miles. well maintained oil changes before it's due time, and always changing the oil filter. no leakages spotted all options and systems seems to be working fine.
what could i do in case clogged water passages? or radiator blockage?
I guess flushing will not help, should I replace the radiator ?
Perhaps some air is still in the coolant system? How was it filled? If an air pocket gets into the system, it can block flow.
Do you know for sure that it was filled through the radiator cap?
It is often important to fill at the radiator cap and then check as the engine warms up and check/top off in the coolant over flow over the next day or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What is the actual temperature? No idea what 2 or 3 dashes past 100C means. Is this something new? Did it happen over time, or suddenly? Did you do anything before it started?
actual temperature is 100C, it is the midway, and the maximum is 125C. so 2 dashes would be somewhere between 105 and 107. it started after a harsh stop due to an accident that happened before my eyes. we did flushing radiator flush to make sure no air is stuck in the coolant system, it ran fine for sometime, and overheating started again.
 

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actual temperature is 100C, it is the midway, and the maximum is 125C. so 2 dashes would be somewhere between 105 and 107. it started after a harsh stop due to an accident that happened before my eyes. we did flushing radiator flush to make sure no air is stuck in the coolant system, it ran fine for sometime, and overheating started again.
Have you checked the coolant level (after sitting over night) on a cold engine at the radiator cap? Air may have been in the system and worked it's way into the radiator, heater core, etc.
At the factory, they use a machine to place the clolant system under a vacuum so that as it is filled, no air can stay in the system. Some shops have a similar system. If coolant is drained and then refilled just pouring more in, air pockets can result that will do exactly what you are describing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Have you checked the coolant level (after sitting over night) on a cold engine at the radiator cap? Air may have been in the system and worked it's way into the radiator, heater core, etc.
At the factory, they use a machine to place the clolant system under a vacuum so that as it is filled, no air can stay in the system. Some shops have a similar system. If coolant is drained and then refilled just pouring more in, air pockets can result that will do exactly what you are describing.
thanks a lot @JayTee2019, is there anyway i can get rid of air pockets?
 

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thanks a lot @JayTee2019, is there anyway i can get rid of air pockets?
Check at the radiator cap on a cold engine after sitting all night. If coolant is not right level under the radiator cap, then there is air in the system. Top off the radiator with 50/50 Dexcool and replace the radiator cap.

One other thing you can try (on a cold start) is if you can park the vehicle on an incline with the front end upward . . . remove the coolant over flow reservoir cap and start the engine letting it warm up. This will sometimes allow air to work its way up and out. But the coolant level at the radiator cap should be checked and filled first.
 
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I second the notion that you probably need a true radiator flush. JMHO
 

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My 2012 overheated the same way. I found that only one of the fans was running at the highest temperature with the air conditioning on. I changed out the fan relay and while the car still overheats climbing hills pulling a trailer on a hot day, it runs fine the of the time.
 

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If your car is not overheating at sustain high speed and overheats in stop & go traffic or at a stop light, the radiator fan may not be working correctly. Could be either a bad fan or fan relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thanks for all your advices and comments, i wanted to share what appeared to be the real issue,
1) Radiator cap needed to be changed as it had a bad seal.
2) and the most important, the Catalytic converter needed to be cleaned, the system was checked by laser temperature gun, and appeared that the heat is being preserved at the level of Catalytic converter. sharing this for you to think about it if it happens with any of you guys. @[email protected] you can check it as well.

now waiting to clean it and hope that will resolve the overheating problem.
 

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Two things bother me here.
1. I thought the Catalytic converters normally get very hot. Have heard of parked cars setting grass fires.
2. Have never heard of Catalytic converters being cleaned. The only fix is replacement. The contents of the converter can be removed, but then all you have is a pipe, not a converter.
 
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