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Did the first oil change yesterday at 500 miles.  Took me a few minutes to find the filter.  First vehicle I have owned where you access the oil filter from the engine bay, not the garage floor.  Its located low on the front of the engine (what is the front on a transverse mounted engine?).  It's located between the radiator and the engine.  What oil runs off during filter removal appears to have been planned for and is relatively easy to clean up.  Thankfully the oil filter wasn't installed by a gorilla like the factory Duramax filter and was easy to get off without using a long pipe wrench.  The shortness and height of the front end enables the use of ramps.

Takes 5.5 qts of 5w30 and an AC Delco PF48 oil filter.  I'll do two more dino changes and at 5k miles switch to Mobil 1.  I'll then change the oil and filter every 6 months.  We only accumulate about 10k miles per year in a cold climate with short trips.  It cost $35 for a dino change at the dealer.  Doing the changes myself enables the use of a synthetic oil and is still cheaper.
 

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Useful info--thanks!
 

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Smart move. I've always done the same thing...first oil change between 500 and 1,000 miles. Next 2 before 5,000 with the dino juice. Then I switch to Synthetic. I've used AMSoil for the past 5 years. I believe it's the best oil on the market and the prices are really competitive...especially when you join them as a dealer.

I've used synthetic for probably 500,000 miles and have never had a car burn oil. Love synthetics. I usually keep the cars for around 150,000 miles then trade. I drive 40,000 miles a year and do my own oil changes...it's easy, saves time and money.

And you know the job got done right!
 

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The dino juice is my silly way of saying regular oil. Since it came out of the ground some people call it Dino Juice. The dealerships usually will let you bring in your own oil...just ask them ahead off time. I've done this at dealerships and also the quick lube places like Jiffy Lube. I bring in my own oil and they credit me their cost for their oil you are not using.

I even send in oil samples from time to time to check and see how my engines are running...what metals they are using, etc. Most of those places will also tell you how much life your oil has left. That way you can safely get the most life out of your oil yet still fully protect your engine.
 

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RedRocker said:
Smart move. I've always done the same thing...first oil change between 500 and 1,000 miles. Next 2 before 5,000 with the dino juice. Then I switch to Synthetic. I've used AMSoil for the past 5 years. I believe it's the best oil on the market and the prices are really competitive...especially when you join them as a dealer.

I've used synthetic for probably 500,000 miles and have never had a car burn oil. Love synthetics. I usually keep the cars for around 150,000 miles then trade. I drive 40,000 miles a year and do my own oil changes...it's easy, saves time and money.

And you know the job got done right!
I heard the best oil is REDLINE but at $10+ per quart it is overkill for me. I also used Amsoil 15-20 years ago when it was only Amsoil and Redline. Now with Castrol Syntec, Mobil-1 and others selling the 5 quart containers for $20-22 dollars I switched over.
 

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I am not an owner yet, but I'm doing extensive research, and hope to make the decision soon. I downloaded the Acada owner's manual recently, courtesy of this website. What a great find!

I noticed that there are basically no recommended oil change intervals for the vechicle. Instead, the computer and engine sensors determine when the oil has deteriorated enough, and tell you to change it. Pretty high tech, but I'm skeptical. What do others think of this system?

I've read articles recently quoting GM as saying this is one of the many ways they are going "green" as a company. The theory is that lots of people change their oil premataturely, just to be safe. By having the engine tell you when to do it, they will conserve a huge amount of oil over the life of the fleet (think hundreds of thousands of vehicles and many years of service).

In order to achieve this, I assume that this will be new feature on many GMs for years to come.

Anyway, I've always been a conservative DIYer changing my own oil/filter religiously at 3000 mile intervals. I usually change at 1500 on a new car, then 3000, 6000, etc. I have a hard time convincing myself to lengthen this out to whatever the computer thinks. Seems like pretty cheap insurance to go with the "overkill", and keep on the 3K schedule.

I do use dino, and have never switched to synthetic. Too cheap, I guess. I've had Fords, GMs and Subarus with 150K+ miles, and no oil burning problems.

Love the forum.
 

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I suppose in the macro sense, squeezing even a few more miles out of an oil change can save a lot of oil across a whole fleet of vehicles. But I agree with xcskier. I'd rather change every 3000 miles. I don't remember burning oil in a car since my first few heaps as a teenager in the 60's. Damn, that was a long time ago! I'll change my mind when this new fangled oil life sensing gizmo has some time under it's belt and proves trustworthy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I felt the same as xcskier before I started using synthetic (Delvac 1) and went to extended drain intervals on my Duramax.

A big issue for me is cold pour point. Oil analysis' on the Dmax have been fine. My 5000 mile intervals with synthetic compensates for cold climate operation and short trips. If my vehicle were run for an hour at highway speed each time it were started I would run Mobile 1 at 8-10,000 mile change intervals in the Acadia. I'll also be using M1 oil filters when they are cross referenced to the Acadia and I can find the proper part number.
 

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I agree with everyone...AMSoil recommends changing the oil at 25,000 to 35,000 intervals...no way am I going that long. I usually change it around 6,000 miles.

I just checked pricing for AMSoil's best oil for 5 quarts...it cost $27 for 5 quarts...so close to $22 but your right...still higher by $1 per quart. Slightly more than some of the other brands out there...especially the cheaper synthetics like the Wal-Mart brand...but since I personally like the AMSoil better than the others...a couple bucks more a year is worth it to me...plus I can get their oil and air filters in one quick online purchase.

Below are the scores and rankings for different 5w30 motor oils from an independent lab...

But we are totally splitting hairs here...probably using any good quality oil...whether it's dino or synthetic is good enough...especially with GM designed and engineered motors. I've used Mobil 1...loved it. Used Castrol Synthetic...no problems.

Now in a Yugo...you might want to be more concerned right?!!! Nothing against Yugo.

Brand Product 5w30

AMSOIL XL7500765 763
Schaeffer Moly Pure 759
AMSOIL 5w30 756
AMSOIL XL7500 749
AMSOIL S3000 749
AMSOIL S3000 732
Havoline Synthetic 725
Exxon Superflo Syn. 725
Valvoline SynPower 725
Valvoline SynPower 725
Chevron Supreme Syn. 718
CAM2 Synavex 715
Havoline Energy 711
Kendall Elite 710
Kendall SHP 707
Valvoline SynPower Racing 705
Red Line Passenger 705
 

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What's the score for Mobil 1 or Castrol? Not on your list.

Another question -- What about switching to synthetic at the first oil change? I notice that several posters don't change to synthetic until about the 3rd or 4th oil change, or about 5K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think its ok to go with synthetic initially. Many cars ship from the factory with synthetic. I use dino for the first few as the change intervals I use initially are shorter and dino oil is cheaper.
 

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Sorry about that...

Mobil 1 spec'ed out at 684
Castrol at 696

As for going w/Synthetic right away...I agree with some other posts I've read...you can probably go with synthetic right away...all Corvettes, Porsche's and other performance cars are shipped w/ synthetic...usually Mobil 1. I've also read some of the pro's say that it doesn't hurt to let the car break in for 5K-10K miles before you switch over.

I really have not noticed any better fuel mileage (if there is it's maybe 1 mpg...not 10-20% like some companies claim for their synthetic oil or oil additives)...I'm confident that cold starts are much better on Synthetics along with super hot conditions, idling in traffic and running the engine in the upper RPM ranges.

I used to have a turbo w/ a boost gage on it...(Toyota MR2). When I bought it the car had 60,000 miles on the odometer. The boost gauge for the turbo would max out at 8 lbs of boost. I switched it to Mobil 1 on my first oil change and immediately the needle would go to the red line on the turbo boost guage...I think it was 12 or 13 lbs. That pretty much sold me on synthetics...then I started doing a ton or research on them and eventually found my way over to my favorite.
 

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In addition to removing these micro pieces of metal in the oil you also know exactly what type of oil is in the engine. I'm sure they use a good oil...but I'm guessing it's not the quality of oil GM puts in their super-premium engines...Northstar, LS6, LS7, etc.

I'm sure it at least meets minimum requirements...but I don't want just minimum in my engine. I want the best protection I can get. So purposes are served...getting rid of the debris and then knowing the type of oil the engine is basking in!
 

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My buddy who's an auto tech guy, said just change the filter after the first 500 to 1000 miles. I was too embarrassed to ask if that wouldn't get a bit messy?
 

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My last 2 Corvette owners manuals said to use Mobil 1 synthetic.

My BMW said to use Castrol Synthetic and if not available, use Mobil 1.

I plan to use synthetic in the Acadia.
 

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Below are the scores and rankings for different 5w30 motor oils from an independent lab...
What do those oil rating numbers mean? Is a higher number better or worse? The variation from low to high is less than 10%, which is probably insignificant anyway.
 
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