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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a 2017 Acadia Denali for the family. I actually got it from carvana, so i wasn't able to inspect it before purchase, but figured it would be nice having only 10k miles. While they had it all cleaned up, it was obvious the previous owner had taken it through automatic car washes :(
Im very particular about my cars,and while you are allowed to return it, we were just to busy.
Anyway, before:
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The hood and everything above the door line was in decent shape, but quite a few areas needed some work.
I used a combination over 2000 and 3000 grit sand paper, and 3d one hybrid polish. I finished up sealing the car with menzerna power lock. Looks better then new IMO. I also tinted the fronts with 20% and the rears with 35%

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Looks great! I can't do this type of work, but have a talented friend who does. Charges very reasonably. Not a car wash fan.
 

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Looks great. Was there any orange peel before your work on it?
So you basically sanded the clear coat?

There was a tiny bit of factory orange peel. Yes, you sand some of the clear coat.
In reality you're only taking away a very small percentage of the clear coat, literally microns... in fact, most of the time Orange Peel is retained. (As in my case)

I generally do a paint correction on all my cars, some require more work than others. I actually prefer sanding opposed to a heavy, cutting compound. Sanding is very slow and controllable, compared to a high speed rotary buffer with abrasive compound.

Anyway, I may hit it with some super fine polish, and then apply a ceramic coating
 

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Sanding is very slow and controllable, compared to a high speed rotary buffer with abrasive compound.
I learned on a rotary when I did prep work at the Olds dealer. In the late 80's & early 90's, cars were coming off the truck with acid rain marks. Definitely easy to burn through edges.
 

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Could you have achieved similar results with a clay bar as opposed to sanding? Seems like sanding would require a lot more patience and a higher degree of attention to what you're doing.
 

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Looking at this a 2nd time, that “hairline” scratch “damage” reminds me of what I’d usually see on my Dad’s cars up in MA when I cleaned them. Every winter he’d routinely use one of those 3’ long snow removal tools with the big “sweep broom” on one end, and the plastic scraper on the other. If pushing the snow and ice across the paint didn’t do it, it might’ve been the frozen bristles of that brush on the tool. I remember one winter I was visiting and we got bombed with a lot of snow. My Dad was out there early cleaning off all the cars and he’d gotten to my Equinox! I ran out there half-dressed and told him to STOP - that I’d get it later myself. Being the bull-in-the-China-shop that he was, however - he just waved his hand, said “Ahhhh! - and went ahead and finished anyway.

Not sure how much damage he caused to my paint that day, but I’d scratch up every inch of all my cars to have him back again ...

Don’t think I’d have the nerve to put a piece of sandpaper to my car’s paint - even 2000 or 3000. I’d be too afraid of unevenness.
 

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Could you have achieved similar results with a clay bar as opposed to sanding? Seems like sanding would require a lot more patience and a higher degree of attention to what you're doing.
A clay bar is very good at removing contaminants from on top of the paint, but does nothing for the quality of the paint.
Factory clear coat is about 50 mils thick, most scratches and swirls are in the first few mils. The goal is to remove just enough paint, say 5mils, so that the paint is smooth, shiny and glossy. You can check this with a paint thickness gauge.
The corrected paint is now in its best shape, and will protect the finish for years to come. On the other side of the spectrum, you've seen them, cars even just a few years old with oxidation, peeling paint etc. Those little scratches open up the paint to compounding deterioration and your original 50mil clear coat slowly gets worn down.



Here is my 10 year, 100k mile yukon, before and after
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If you want to start a thread on your Lingenfelter CTS-V, I know I wouldn't mind.... :)
 

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I'll ask you to prep HiYo if I ever want to enter it in a Concours d' Elegance. LOL
Haha, I actually do live just a few miles away from where they hold the Amelia Island Concours d'Elegance and I've actually had cars entered in the show previously. I'll check if there's an Acadia category, and I'll hook you up LOL
 

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If you want to start a thread on your Lingenfelter CTS-V, I know I wouldn't mind.... :)
Unfortunately I haven't updated my signature in a while, CTS-V is long gone. But it's been replaced with cars that bring me that much bigger smile.

You still that Lt1 transAm? My first car was a 97 Camaro 30th ss. Loved that car at the time, modded the crap out of it
 

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Haha, I actually do live just a few miles away from where they hold the Amelia Island Concours d'Elegance and I've actually had cars entered in the show previously. I'll check if there's an Acadia category, and I'll hook you up LOL
Got one here across the Chesapeake Bay from me at the end of the month - St. Michaels Concours d’ Elegance. Grab your grit and come north. LOL
 

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You still that Lt1 transAm? My first car was a 97 Camaro 30th ss. Loved that car at the time, modded the crap out of it
Yes, I still have the LT1. It has a 383 with forged internals, Lloyd Elliott ported heads & cam. The exhaust is a bit potent due to the amount of intake/exhaust valve overlap timing.
 

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Amazing results. . . wish I had the time and patience to do the same.
But happy with a good claying, polish-sealant- was job.
When I look at other cars on the road or even neighbors, I can not believe most do not even do any basic paint finish care.
 
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JayTee2019
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