Transmission blown or dealer screwing me? - GMC Acadia Forum: AcadiaForum.net
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Angry Transmission blown or dealer screwing me?

I took my car into the dealership because I noticed there was this dropping feeling when I would take off from a stop sign and it felt like I would loose power in my 2012 Acadia. They hooked it up to the computer and saw that it was getting error codes that had to do with speed codes. They finally looked at it and said the transmission fluid was really dark, smelly and had a lot of metal in it. They are saying they need to replace the tranny. I'm looking to find out if this is my only option? They're going to charge me $6,000 for a new transmission and I already owe $6,000 more than the vehicle is worth! My Acadia was the worst vehicle decision I've ever made. They said they can take the tranny out and pull it apart but if it still ends up being bad, I will need to pay for that time in addition to the new transmission.

The worst part is I just hit 104,000 mile and had it into this same dealership 4 months ago for an oil change before the warranty ran out.

HELP!? TIA
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 02:10 PM
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You could take the car elsewhere and get a second opinion/estimate.

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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 03:35 PM
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Agree with Speleos, second opinion from another dealer or transmission shop. You could also ask the current dealer for a quote on a remanufactured or used transmission.

Not many other options available.

I don't believe the dealer is screwing you.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-07-2019, 05:34 PM
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BTW, it appears the dealer is 'highballing' you on the price to check out how earnest you are about fixing the car. A remanufactured transmission sells for ~$3000.00 or less from almost every supplier (some give up to $1000.00 back on a "core charge"). Labor to do the job is about 15 hours. You do the math based on your dealer's labor rate.

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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-09-2019, 09:34 PM
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You’ve got a 7-8 year-old vehicle. You should’ve weened yourself off the dealer the day after your warranty ran out!

Get a recommendation for a reputable and trustworthy independent mechanic - and be prepared to go 50-60 miles, if necessary. You really shouldn’t need a new transmission at such low mileage - unless it’s been abused in some way. Maybe you just need a much-less-costly repair - like something in your valve body. Just because the dealer says there are chunks of metal in your fluid doesn’t mean there are chunks of metal in your fluid.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colt Hero View Post
You’ve got a 7-8 year-old vehicle. You should’ve weened yourself off the dealer the day after your warranty ran out!

...
How do you justify giving such advice? On customer-pay jobs, dealerships and outside repair shops use the same flat-rate time schedule and charge nearly identical money for their labor. Both have mark-ups for profit on any parts they sell. Good shops (both dealer and outside) will give options on the place parts are obtained - either manufacturer-supplied, aftermarket, or owner-supplied. The price difference for their work will be negligible.

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Last edited by speleos; 01-10-2019 at 01:02 AM.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 01:11 AM
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@totravel01, here's some information you might find interesting while you're deciding what to do: https://www.transmissionrepaircostgu...emanufactured/

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 02:12 AM
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[QUOTE=speleos;312761]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Colt Hero View Post
You’ve got a 7-8 year-old vehicle. You should’ve weened yourself off the dealer the day after your warranty ran out!

...
How do I justify giving such advice?

First-hand, personal experience. Now granted - it was years ago, but after being burned a few times, I started buying the Helm Manuals, my own set of tools, and I’ve never looked back.

But I’ve continued to price repairs (to see if I think it’s worth paying someone to do the work instead of me), and the cost difference (between Independent and Dealer) is *not* “negligible” ... it’s “considerable”. And for what (?) - to do rudimentary stuff like fluid changes, plugs, and brakes? To me, you buy the car from the dealer because you *have* to, but then once the warranty period expires you get as far away from that place as possible!

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 07:41 AM
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[quote=Colt Hero;312765]
Quote:
Originally Posted by speleos View Post

How do I justify giving such advice?

First-hand, personal experience. Now granted - it was years ago, but after being burned a few times, I started buying the Helm Manuals, my own set of tools, and I’ve never looked back.

But I’ve continued to price repairs (to see if I think it’s worth paying someone to do the work instead of me), and the cost difference (between Independent and Dealer) is *not* “negligible” ... it’s “considerable”. And for what (?) - to do rudimentary stuff like fluid changes, plugs, and brakes? To me, you buy the car from the dealer because you *have* to, but then once the warranty period expires you get as far away from that place as possible!
A little background so you know where I'm coming from I've been working on my own and other folks cars for 50+ years. Have built drag cars and drag bikes. Heck, back in the 70's I was part owner of a repair facility.

Still do my own work on my 35 year old Corvette but won't own a daily driver that is not under warranty. Way too many gizmos that can go boom in the night.

I used to always recommend your advice of finding a good, trustworthy local shop. Still do for routine maintenance items.

The bane of many vehicles these days is electrical issues. An owner will be best served by having a dealer tech resolve those issue. In many cases it is a must as your local shop doesn't have access to the dealer's computer system and related software.

My son is a service advisor for Car Max. They routinely transport cars to dealers for repair because they are the ones with the needed tools and the factory trained techs.

The biggest reason repair costs can be substantially different between independent and dealer shops is the labor rate. Can be as much as $50 an hour. But with modern vehicles, the owner may be best served by having the vehicle repaired at the dealer, especially if the problem calls for some troubleshooting.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-10-2019, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by divotdug View Post
...
The biggest reason repair costs can be substantially different between independent and dealer shops is the labor rate. Can be as much as $50 an hour. But with modern vehicles, the owner may be best served by having the vehicle repaired at the dealer, especially if the problem calls for some troubleshooting.
In my area, hourly rates have very much equalized - some outside shops actually charge more. Overhead costs have necessitated that in most instances. You'll only find a substantial difference if the shop is located on property owned by the proprietor.

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