This would be the easiest and best solution...
If you do it, please post a write-up...
Phewsh....I did it....only 27 laborious steps. You may want to set a few hours aside for this one. This will make only the fog lamps come on and not the other driving lights as happens when using the fog lamp button.Materials:
1a) If you have a DRL fuse, 2" 18 AWG wire... no more, no less
1b) If you have a DRL2 fuse and RPO code TVD, 6" 18 AWG wire... no more, no less
2) Two 18 AWG wire tapsTools:
1) Wire cutters (to cut the 2" or 6" wire)
2) A ruler for measuring the wire.
3) Something to attach the taps (the wire cutter may do)
4) Fingernails (to remove the plastic rivet thingies that hold panels on)Step 1:
Cut 2"/6" 18 AWG wire. Be careful! Don't screw it up! <--that's sarcasmStep 2:
Remove kick panel from below the dash on the driver's side.Step 3:
Find BCM. It looks like this:
The other stuff you see going on there is for my backup camera override.Step 4:
Starting from the left side of the BCM, find connector four (X4) and pull it out (or leave it in). I'll give you a hint; it's the fourth one over...and black. It looks like this:Step 5:
Find the Dark Green
wire with a white stripe. This wire should be for pin 11 and controls the fog lamp relay. If you would like to verify, disconnect from the BCM then stick a wire in its hole in the harness and touch to ground to turn the lights on. Now we need to find the wire that controls the DRL. If you have a DRL2 fuse and RPO code TVD, you need to head over to BCM connector seven (X7) which is gray or grey depending on your county of origin. You should find a Dark Blue
wire at pin 8. Everyone else needs to locate the Purple
wire at pin 23 of X4. The Dark Green
wires can both be seen in the image back in Step 4
. The wire from X4 and X7 both control the DRL's by sending to ground so, just like with the fog lights, stick a wire in the hole and touch it to ground to verify the lights turn on. If you had already pulled the DRL fuse, this test won't work but should if the DRL's were turned off manually.Step 6:
Grab your wire taps of choice and, using your cut piece of wire, connect the fog lamp wire to the DRL wire. The result should be similar to this:Step 7 (conditional):
If you unplugged anything, plug it back in.Step 8 (conditional):
Remove your DRL/DRL2 fuse if you haven't done so already.Step 9:
Continue at Step 25
.Step 25 (may be swapped with Step 26):
Reinstall the kick panel.Step 26 (may be swapped with Step 25):
Verify that enough ambient light exists to activate DRL's and then test your new setup.Step 27:
Drink beer and beat your chest while grunting in a manly manner.In summary...
1) Remove kick panel
2) Place a jumper at BCM across X4-11 and X4-23 or, if you have factory HID, X4-11 and X7-8
3) Replace kick panel
4) Pull appropriate DRL fuse
5) Drink beer and beat your chest while grunting in a manly mannerMETHOD 2
I've learned that there may be apprehension with some folks when it comes to tampering with BCM wires so I've gone back to my schematics and figured out another way. I have not tried it this way so be sure to verify everything with a meter and tracing. This approach requires that the DRL fuses be left in place.Materials:
1) Two 18 AWG wire taps
2) 2" 18 AWG wire
3) Electrical tapeTools:
1) Wire cuttersStep 1:
Locate connector one (X1) at the fuse block under your hood.Step 2:
Locate the Purple
wire at position ten. This should be the fog lamp wire.Step 3:
If you have RPO codes TVD & Z88 (HID on a GMC) then locate the Dark Blue
wire at position five otherwise, locate the Purple
wire at position 20. These should be for the DRLs.Step 4:
Use the taps and piece of wire to splice the fog lamp wire to the DRL wire. The only problem with this setup is that both fogs and headlights will turn on for the DRLs. To fix this you will have to CUT the DRL wire to the headlights.
FUSE BLOCK -> DRL WIRE -> FOG LIGHT TAP -> DRL WIRE -> **CUT**
Tape up the exposed ends and you should be good to go.