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Author Topic: Sticky: Extend headlight life by pulling the DRL2 fuse  (Read 24087 times, 63 Replies)
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« Reply #40 on: April 10, 2012, 07:39:46 AM »

I changed one myself for only the cost of the bulb and no bumper removal.  Heck I think it would take longer to remove the bumper, change out the bulb and reinstall the bumper than it would to just work through the wheel well  wink
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« Reply #41 on: April 10, 2012, 08:44:20 AM »

My dealer went through the wheel well to do one bulb on the 2010. When the second bulb went, just out of warranty, they claimed that they needed to remove the bumper for access.... I had my independent change it instead and he went through the wheel well!
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« Reply #42 on: November 21, 2012, 04:49:10 PM »

Bought our 2007 used in December 2009.  in June '10, we noticed the driver's side DRL was out.  Dealer replaced it at no charge (under warranty, or so the paperwork said).  In Aug '12, passenger bulb went out.  Different dealer replaced bulb and melted socket.  Charged me $95.92  thumbdown  Oct '12 and noticed driver's side DRL was out (again) Bang Head.  Searched the forum, saw this thread, removed the DRL2 fuse (awkward, but got in there!).  Will drive without DRLs from now on.  I know of no one who's been ticketed for not having their DRLs on.
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« Reply #43 on: December 31, 2012, 09:28:50 AM »

I've been considering just rerouting the DRL wire down to the fog lights.  That way I get DRL using bulbs that are easy to replace.
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« Reply #44 on: December 31, 2012, 01:01:34 PM »

This would be the easiest and best solution...

If you do it, please post a write-up...

I've been considering just rerouting the DRL wire down to the fog lights.  That way I get DRL using bulbs that are easy to replace.
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« Reply #45 on: December 31, 2012, 04:09:06 PM »

Pulling the DRL fuse was one of the first things I did to Have Blue, the lights are too expensive and too
hard to get at.
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« Reply #46 on: January 24, 2013, 02:38:23 PM »

This would be the easiest and best solution...

If you do it, please post a write-up...



Phewsh....I did it....only 27 laborious steps.  You may want to set a few hours aside for this one.  This will make only the fog lamps come on and not the other driving lights as happens when using the fog lamp button.

Materials:
1a) If you have a DRL fuse, 2" 18 AWG wire... no more, no less
1b) If you have a DRL2 fuse and RPO code TVD, 6" 18 AWG wire... no more, no less
2) Two 18 AWG wire taps

Tools:
1) Wire cutters (to cut the 2" or 6" wire)
2) A ruler for measuring the wire.
3) Something to attach the taps (the wire cutter may do)
4) Fingernails (to remove the plastic rivet thingies that hold panels on)

Step 1:
Cut 2"/6" 18 AWG wire.  Be careful!  Don't screw it up!  <--that's sarcasm

Step 2:
Remove kick panel from below the dash on the driver's side.

Step 3:
Find BCM. It looks like this:

The other stuff you see going on there is for my backup camera override.

Step 4:
Starting from the left side of the BCM, find connector four (X4) and pull it out (or leave it in).  I'll give you a hint; it's the fourth one over...and black.  It looks like this:


Step 5:
Find the Dark Green wire with a white stripe. This wire should be for pin 11 and controls the fog lamp relay. If you would like to verify, disconnect from the BCM then stick a wire in its hole in the harness and touch to ground to turn the lights on.  Now we need to find the wire that controls the DRL.  If you have a DRL2 fuse and RPO code TVD, you need to head over to BCM connector seven (X7) which is gray or grey depending on your county of origin.  You should find a Dark Blue wire at pin 8.  Everyone else needs to locate the Purple wire at pin 23 of X4.  The Dark Green and Purple wires can both be seen in the image back in Step 4.  The wire from X4 and X7 both control the DRL's by sending to ground so, just like with the fog lights, stick a wire in the hole and touch it to ground to verify the lights turn on.  If you had already pulled the DRL fuse, this test won't work but should if the DRL's were turned off manually.

Step 6:
Grab your wire taps of choice and, using your cut piece of wire, connect the fog lamp wire to the DRL wire.  The result should be similar to this:


Step 7 (conditional):
If you unplugged anything, plug it back in.

Step 8 (conditional):
Remove your DRL/DRL2 fuse if you haven't done so already.

Step 9:
Continue at Step 25.

Step 25 (may be swapped with Step 26):
Reinstall the kick panel.

Step 26 (may be swapped with Step 25):
Verify that enough ambient light exists to activate DRL's and then test your new setup.

Step 27:
Drink beer and beat your chest while grunting in a manly manner.


In summary...
1) Remove kick panel
2) Place a jumper at BCM across X4-11 and X4-23 or, if you have factory HID, X4-11 and X7-8
3) Replace kick panel
4) Pull appropriate DRL fuse
5) Drink beer and beat your chest while grunting in a manly manner


METHOD 2
I've learned that there may be apprehension with some folks when it comes to tampering with BCM wires so I've gone back to my schematics and figured out another way.  I have not tried it this way so be sure to verify everything with a meter and tracing.  This approach requires that the DRL fuses be left in place.

Materials:
1) Two 18 AWG wire taps
2) 2" 18 AWG wire
3) Electrical tape

Tools:
1) Wire cutters

Step 1:
Locate connector one (X1) at the fuse block under your hood.

Step 2:
Locate the Purple wire at position ten.  This should be the fog lamp wire.

Step 3:
If you have RPO codes TVD & Z88 (HID on a GMC) then locate the Dark Blue wire at position five otherwise, locate the Purple wire at position 20.  These should be for the DRLs.

Step 4:
Use the taps and piece of wire to splice the fog lamp wire to the DRL wire.  The only problem with this setup is that both fogs and headlights will turn on for the DRLs.  To fix this you will have to CUT the DRL wire to the headlights.

FUSE BLOCK -> DRL WIRE -> FOG LIGHT TAP -> DRL WIRE -> **CUT** -> HEADLIGHTS

Tape up the exposed ends and you should be good to go.
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« Reply #47 on: January 24, 2013, 02:41:54 PM »

Pulling the DRL fuse was one of the first things I did to Have Blue, the lights are too expensive and too
hard to get at.

Yours has HID?
or regular halogen?
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« Reply #48 on: January 24, 2013, 03:17:17 PM »

Sorry, this just seems appropriate... Did a bunch of shows with this band,
the guitar players were simply gorgeous, and nice guys too.


Kix - Blow My Fuse (HQ music video)



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« Reply #49 on: January 24, 2013, 03:25:05 PM »

Cutting wires going to the BCM............. Undecided  for me not worth the risks
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« Reply #50 on: January 24, 2013, 03:54:32 PM »

Cutting wires going to the BCM............. Undecided  for me not worth the risks

What wires?  The DRL/fog light mod does not involve cutting any wires to the BCM.
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« Reply #51 on: January 24, 2013, 05:28:00 PM »

Symantics; pulled wires from and into the BCM..........
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« Reply #52 on: January 24, 2013, 06:03:10 PM »

Meh...I only spliced them together.  Plus I can see from the service manual what they do and how they work.  The BCM turns on these lights simply by closing a switch to connect the negative side of a relay.  In these new fangled vehicles,  just about every wire ends up back at one of the various control modules.  The camera mod was a little trickier dealing with the digital signal.
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« Reply #53 on: January 25, 2013, 01:40:39 PM »

So to clarify the OP, can someone recap what purpose exactly is the DRL 1 fuse and what all will happen if it is pulled; and separately what exactly is the purpose of the DRL 2 fuse and what will happen it only it is pulled... and what about pulling both?
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« Reply #54 on: January 28, 2013, 10:40:51 AM »

So to clarify the OP, can someone recap what purpose exactly is the DRL 1 fuse and what all will happen if it is pulled; and separately what exactly is the purpose of the DRL 2 fuse and what will happen it only it is pulled... and what about pulling both?

You have the DRL2 fuse only if you have factory HID.  Without HID, the DRL fuse is for both low beams to be run as the DRL.  With HID, the high beams are used as the DRL with individual fuses.  I believe this is only an Acadia thing.
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« Reply #55 on: January 29, 2013, 10:12:06 AM »

That makes sense. sorry if I missed that info in other replies further up.
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« Reply #56 on: January 29, 2013, 11:55:11 AM »

You have the DRL2 fuse only if you have factory HID.  Without HID, the DRL fuse is for both low beams to be run as the DRL.  With HID, the high beams are used as the DRL with individual fuses.  I believe this is only an Acadia thing.


like he said....

look at the diagram below.
Note the .   and .. on top of the fuse box--- and next to the fuse spots

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« Reply #57 on: April 28, 2013, 09:13:31 AM »

Hi,
What is the rating of the DRL fuse(s). I want to re-enable my DRL's. They were pulled out.

Regards.
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« Reply #58 on: April 28, 2013, 11:18:44 AM »

Hi,
What is the rating of the DRL fuse(s). I want to re-enable my DRL's. They were pulled out.

Regards.

10A or 15A depends if you have HID. Read the post above yours.
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« Reply #59 on: April 28, 2013, 12:43:23 PM »

10A or 15A depends if you have HID. Read the post above yours.

Thanks  thumbs up
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