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Author Topic: 1st Oil Change  (Read 16096 times, 40 Replies)
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GaryB
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« Reply #20 on: March 01, 2007, 08:03:07 AM »

If you are worried about wear and break-in, you would be far better off to change the transmission oil early than the engine oil. Modern engines aren't sooty, don't contaminate the oil much at all and are built to close enough tolerances that they don't grind a lot of metal into the crank case in the first few thousands miles.  A transmission, on the other hand, can really wear itself out with just a few metal filings in the fluid, which is continuously and rapidly recirculated.  And I would change to a synthetic tranny fluid at the same time - synthetic really makes a difference when it is going to be there for many years & 10's of thousands of miles.
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clsuper
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« Reply #21 on: March 05, 2007, 08:21:32 AM »

It's best to use standard oil for the first few oil changes, then switch to synthetic if you choose to.  Synthetic oil is so slick, it will not let the rings seat properly in the cylinder.  You run the risk of the engine using oil for the rest of its life.  Using standard oil eliminates this risk by allowing the rings to seat. 

As for the Corvette engines, and many other premium cars.....(someone please correct me if I'm wrong), they're ran on a dyno and broken in at the factory.
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002
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« Reply #22 on: March 05, 2007, 11:54:50 AM »

It's best to use standard oil for the first few oil changes, then switch to synthetic if you choose to.  Synthetic oil is so slick, it will not let the rings seat properly in the cylinder.  You run the risk of the engine using oil for the rest of its life.  Using standard oil eliminates this risk by allowing the rings to seat. 

As for the Corvette engines, and many other premium cars.....(someone please correct me if I'm wrong), they're ran on a dyno and broken in at the factory.

clsuper,

You are correct on the Corvettes.  I've been to the Corvette Assembly Plant (also assemble Cadillac XLRs) in Bowling Green, Ky several times.  After assembly, they drive the cars over bumps to set the suspension and then onto the dyno where theyr do a rolling and brake test, taking the cars up to about 75 mph.  Every so often, they take the cars out on the road for quality checks.

As for the "Performance" engines--the Cadillac V-Series 4.4L (443/469hp) Northstar engine and the Corvette Z06 7.0L 505hp LS7 engine, they are built at the GM Performance Build Center in Wixom, MI and are "Hot Tested" for 20 minutes before being shipped to Bowling Green, KY (Corvette Z06 and XLR-V) or Lansing Grand River (STS-V).  BTW, The Acadia is assemble at the Lansing Township Plant, not far from the Cadillac STS Lansing Grand River Plant.

Probably more info than you wanted . . .

002
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clsuper
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« Reply #23 on: March 05, 2007, 03:36:42 PM »

Very interesting...thanks for the input.
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zman
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« Reply #24 on: May 30, 2007, 02:52:35 PM »

I am going to change the oil on our Enclave for the first time.  Is there any type of crush washer on the oil pan drain plug that will need to be replaced?  I don't want to get into the oil change and find out I need to take a trip to the dealer.

Thanks.
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« Reply #25 on: May 30, 2007, 05:57:01 PM »

I am going to change the oil on our Enclave for the first time.  Is there any type of crush washer on the oil pan drain plug that will need to be replaced?  I don't want to get into the oil change and find out I need to take a trip to the dealer.

Thanks.

I've never heard of a crush washer on an oil drain pan plug. Typically, GM uses a drain plug with a recessed rubber O-Ring. (could be different on this motor though) but i highly doubt they would use a crush washer on there... too too easy for someone to not put it on and cause all kinds of leakings!


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zman
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« Reply #26 on: May 30, 2007, 07:15:21 PM »

I've never heard of a crush washer on an oil drain pan plug. Typically, GM uses a drain plug with a recessed rubber O-Ring. (could be different on this motor though) but i highly doubt they would use a crush washer on there... too too easy for someone to not put it on and cause all kinds of leakings!


Thanks.  The Subaru's I've owned have always had crush washers.  It's good to know I won't need one.
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« Reply #27 on: May 31, 2007, 09:37:24 AM »

Redrocker,
Do you have ratings for Penzoil and Quaker State as well?  I always thought that Castrol was one of the better oils.  I remember a number of years back that Consumer Reports did an analysis of oils and Castrol came out on top.
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« Reply #28 on: June 23, 2007, 06:35:37 PM »

GM's motor assy plant out east has been using synthetic oil for some time according to my sister-in-law who works at truck plant here.  After 1st 500 miles, I put Mobil1 in.  Since 1975, I have been using Mobil 1 which is a true all synthetic oil.  Back then Mobil, was telling customers you need only change the filter every 3000 and full change at 25,000 miles.  True Synthetic oil does not break down.  Todays lab tests on Mobil1 says you can probably go 30,000 miles before change, but recommend every 12,000.  I have been changing mine every 10-12M for the past 30 years+.  Jiffy lube charges me $49.00 including tax as am a senior.  Lab tests show that conventional motor oil does not begin to break down until 6000 miles, if you care to know.  Transmission fluid is probably synthetic too, which I have not confirmed, but if it is, needs changing at 150,000 or 5 years.  If you give the dealer the VIN number on your vehicle, they can look up the fluids for your specific auto.  Happy motoring.  oooo, I put about 150,000 miles on my cars and mpg never changes from when first bought new.  Tootle looo
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« Reply #29 on: September 21, 2007, 06:43:47 PM »

I posted this in another oil post, but my GMC dealer uses Castrol Synthetic Blend motor oil...
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« Reply #30 on: November 14, 2007, 12:25:50 PM »

Where is the drain plug located at?
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« Reply #31 on: December 01, 2007, 10:49:33 AM »

am I right on the engine oil drain plug location? or it's a transmission oil drain plug?

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« Reply #32 on: December 01, 2007, 02:34:25 PM »

Yep - you got it, that's the oil drain plug.  I have yet to find the transmission drain plug, but haven't specificially looked yet either.  My drain plug was on VERY tight the first time I changed the oil FYI...
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oldegg
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« Reply #33 on: December 01, 2007, 05:07:37 PM »

Thanks, vogelm1.

I drained the oil, then I found the filter is extremely tight. I used a cap bought from walmart. It didn't work.

Then I added the new oil, went to sears, bought a plier, it worked.

Now the question is that can I chage the filter without drain the oil?

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oldegg
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« Reply #34 on: December 01, 2007, 06:27:15 PM »


I just changed the filter without drain the oil. only small amount of oil ran out.

Now the job is done.


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« Reply #35 on: December 01, 2007, 07:59:22 PM »

Good deal oldegg - glad it worked out.  Now that I think about it, my filter was also on pretty tight.  It probably would have been difficult to remove even with a cap wrench...I've started using a strap wrench that has a piece of rubber to wrap around the filter; it grips tight and seems to take less torque to remove the filter compared to other methods.
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« Reply #36 on: December 02, 2007, 09:08:21 AM »

am I right on the engine oil drain plug location? or it's a transmission oil drain plug?

Thank you oldegg for the picture!  I made 4X6 print to show next oil change person where the location is.  "First" quick oil change took 45 minutes when in AL this past June.  I know the southern folk are slow,  Smiley but think it took them 1/2 hour to figure out where drain plug was.  Had it changed again yesterday and local Sears Auto took about the same amount of time.  Probably could not find oil placement filter coupled with oil drain plug. If you can take a picture of the filter placement, I will make print of that which to give to oil change person too.  Hopefully can get in and out next time under 30 minutes, if lucky!
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« Reply #37 on: December 02, 2007, 09:25:32 AM »

For the filter, just open the hood and look down at the front of the engine
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« Reply #38 on: December 02, 2007, 10:16:25 AM »

For the filter, just open the hood and look down at the front of the engine

Thank you again!!  Got it!
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« Reply #39 on: January 04, 2008, 04:00:28 PM »

am I right on the engine oil drain plug location? or it's a transmission oil drain plug?

Thank you oldegg for the picture!  I made 4X6 print to show next oil change person where the location is.  "First" quick oil change took 45 minutes when in AL this past June.  I know the southern folk are slow,  Smiley but think it took them 1/2 hour to figure out where drain plug was.  Had it changed again yesterday and local Sears Auto took about the same amount of time.  Probably could not find oil placement filter coupled with oil drain plug. If you can take a picture of the filter placement, I will make print of that which to give to oil change person too.  Hopefully can get in and out next time under 30 minutes, if lucky!


Probably took them that long because changing out the oil filter is not a fun task when the engine has just been brought in off the road. It is hot in that area right next to the exhaust manifold and cat.  I don't have thermal gloves so from the first oil change that I did I will not let it cool down some. Now with the weather being colder it is nice to have a warm area to work in.  Also for those that might be doing their first oil change. Be careful because the oil flys out of the oil pan once you pull that oil drain plug so be sure to catch it and not over shoot your drain pan.
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