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Author Topic: 2013 Oil Change  (Read 11125 times, 25 Replies)
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crystal-red
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« on: May 01, 2013, 11:38:59 AM »

Anyone change their oil in a 2013 yet?  What did you go with, the synthetic blend or right to full synthetic?  Is it pretty obvious once you get under there where the oil plug is?
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« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2013, 11:42:36 AM »

Posted this over on Traverse forum:

Just changed the oil (2013), used an old 2-liter pepsi bottle, cut out half of the bottom to make a ramp into the top half...

I left the cap on the pepsi bottle and used this under the oil filter, the 1/4 of a quart of oil collected near the cap when I removed the oil filter...  Stuffed some used paper towels into the bottle to stop the oil from spilling out...

Other than that, pretty straight forward, I looked up a video, and the guy points to the transmission drain...  flaming mad
http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2009_Chevrolet_Traverse_LT_3.6L_V6/oil/change_oil_and_oil_filter

So I looked up the part number on the oil pan just to make sure 12648986 (if I recall correctly)...  the 2013 oil pan looks nothing like the one in the above video...

took 6.4 quarts Mobil 1 & AC delco PF63 oil filter...   15% OLM and 4,303 miles on the clock...  1st oil change, oil still looked very clean...

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« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2013, 12:08:17 PM »

You may have over filled at 6.4qts, should be 5.5qts.
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« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2013, 12:14:55 PM »

Posted this over on Traverse forum:

Just changed the oil (2013), used an old 2-liter pepsi bottle, cut out half of the bottom to make a ramp into the top half...

I left the cap on the pepsi bottle and used this under the oil filter, the 1/4 of a quart of oil collected near the cap when I removed the oil filter...  Stuffed some used paper towels into the bottle to stop the oil from spilling out...

Other than that, pretty straight forward, I looked up a video, and the guy points to the transmission drain...  flaming mad
http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2009_Chevrolet_Traverse_LT_3.6L_V6/oil/change_oil_and_oil_filter

So I looked up the part number on the oil pan just to make sure 12648986 (if I recall correctly)...  the 2013 oil pan looks nothing like the one in the above video...

took 6.4 quarts Mobil 1 & AC delco PF63 oil filter...   15% OLM and 4,303 miles on the clock...  1st oil change, oil still looked very clean...



Very good idea with the bottle.  I ordered the PF63 on Amazon and was looking to use Pennzoil's Synthetic Blend for now.  Mine has about 3,000 miles on it now.

You may have over filled at 6.4qts, should be 5.5qts.


The 2013 manual says 6.4qt.  Why can't they just make it an even number???
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« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2013, 12:20:40 PM »

You may have over filled at 6.4qts, should be 5.5qts.

its been increased to 6.4 qts on the lambdas.

(on the 3.6 in the Nox/Terrain its been increased to 6 qts)
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« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2013, 12:40:35 PM »

The 2013 manual says 6.4qt.  Why can't they just make it an even number???
EXACTLY!!!!! Bang Head

2004 Volvo takes 7.3 qts

Do we really need the extra .4 and .3 qts?
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« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2013, 01:24:58 PM »

Those are engineering numbers. The more decimals, the more accurate it is  Grin
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« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2013, 01:57:19 PM »

Very good idea with the bottle.  I ordered the PF63 on Amazon and was looking to use Pennzoil's Synthetic Blend for now.  Mine has about 3,000 miles on it now.

In my case, the PF63 filter is/was cheaper from the dealer w/ no shipping.
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« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2013, 02:13:38 PM »

In my case, the PF63 filter is/was cheaper from the dealer w/ no shipping.

i paid $6.64 on Amazon, no shipping cost with Amazon Prime membership.
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« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2013, 04:21:07 PM »

If you're planning on keeping your Acadia for awhile, I highly recommend a Fumoto valve to replace your oil drain bolt.  I used one one my WRX for 7 years and put on one the Acadia for my first oil change.  It makes it a lot quicker to put my arm under, flick open the valve, and let it drain, instead of jacking up the truck.

http://www.oildrainvalve.net/
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« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2013, 05:55:17 PM »

The best part about the Fumoto is you can attach a tube to the models with a nipple and drain directly into a bottle. Now that's convenient!
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« Reply #11 on: May 01, 2013, 06:36:06 PM »

i paid $6.64 on Amazon, no shipping cost with Amazon Prime membership.

Dealer for me was $5 and some change. I also like having the receipt from the dealer for warranty purposes.
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« Reply #12 on: May 01, 2013, 07:36:44 PM »

Dealer for me was $5 and some change. I also like having the receipt from the dealer for warranty purposes.

Yeah I'm saving all my receipts after reading some posts on here about needing to show maintenance records if there is an issue.
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« Reply #13 on: May 07, 2013, 10:03:42 AM »

Just to make sure, oil plug location on 2013 - towards passenger side, plug parallel with the ground pointing towards the rear, and there is a hole cut out of a support to access it?  I have an old Grand Am that the plug is parallel like that too... first time I underestimated how far it was going to shoot out.  Looks like I can do it without even putting it up on ramps.  My Envoy plug and filter were way up there, needed up on ramps or on a lift.

I'm going with Mobil 1 with the AC Delco PF63 filter.  I'm going to try the nifty bottle funnel idea to catch the oil from the filter.
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« Reply #14 on: May 07, 2013, 10:33:30 AM »

this is my 2010..
the 2013 should be the same..

but while draining oil-- and doing a tire rotation-- I noticed the oil drain hole in relation to tire..
So if youre loosening a bolt that is NOT in this location-- theyre youre doing the wrong one.
The transmission is on the other side and more forward... (yes Ive read someone draining the trans- and then refilling a full engine with more oil).

You dont need to remove tire to drain oil--- like I said-- I was rotating tires and just happen to notice it.



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« Reply #15 on: May 07, 2013, 12:04:15 PM »

this is my 2010..
the 2013 should be the same..

but while draining oil-- and doing a tire rotation-- I noticed the oil drain hole in relation to tire..
So if youre loosening a bolt that is NOT in this location-- theyre youre doing the wrong one.
The transmission is on the other side and more forward... (yes Ive read someone draining the trans- and then refilling a full engine with more oil).

You dont need to remove tire to drain oil--- like I said-- I was rotating tires and just happen to notice it.


Looks about the same.  I want to say the plug was on the other side of the oil pan though, not right next to the tire.
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« Reply #16 on: May 07, 2013, 12:39:52 PM »

well its not 'right' next to the tire......

what you see in the pic- is the frame and one of the engine pulleys and one of those accordion looking thingys.. cant think of name...
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« Reply #17 on: May 07, 2013, 12:48:51 PM »

Boot... Cheers
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« Reply #18 on: May 07, 2013, 07:53:36 PM »

Boot... Cheers
Yup, CV Axle.
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« Reply #19 on: May 23, 2013, 09:37:09 PM »

Just changed my oil for the first time on this vehicle.  Trying to keep adequate records for warranty purposes.  Let me know if this should suffice. 

Used Penzoil platinum, 6 quarts, Fram ultra filter and put the fumoto valve and extension on.  Made quite a mess with the filter.

Oil change documentation


Going to keep a gmail email address just for documentation and email all my videos and pictures of receipts to keep them organized.
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« Reply #20 on: May 24, 2013, 07:43:17 AM »

i did the same thing with google drive, scanned in my receipts for the oil and filter and created a document in there with a spreadsheet of the date and odometer reading.
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« Reply #21 on: May 29, 2013, 10:17:09 PM »

Maybe I missed it, but I had the similar question regarding synthetic or not? I know the difference and benefit, but is it actually being called for by the good ol' GM engineers for this motor? About to do first oil change and if it is regular oil, it would worry me that my oil life is still at 59% nearing 3,000 miles.  shrug  Im all for trusting the OLM, but wondering if it only reads the drive parameters of the motor and not the difference in normal vs. synth. oil.
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« Reply #22 on: May 29, 2013, 10:29:29 PM »

Maybe I missed it, but I had the similar question regarding synthetic or not? I know the difference and benefit, but is it actually being called for by the good ol' GM engineers for this motor? About to do first oil change and if it is regular oil, it would worry me that my oil life is still at 59% nearing 3,000 miles.  shrug  Im all for trusting the OLM, but wondering if it only reads the drive parameters of the motor and not the difference in normal vs. synth. oil.

You need to use an oil that meets dexos1 specifications and GM did with the factory fill.  Almost all of those are synthetic blends or full synthetic.  The Olm is programmed for dexos, but doesn't know or care if it is a blend or full (or conventional that meets the specs).
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« Reply #23 on: May 29, 2013, 10:39:54 PM »

You need to use an oil that meets dexos1 specifications and GM did with the factory fill.  Almost all of those are synthetic blends or full synthetic.  The Olm is programmed for dexos, but doesn't know or care if it is a blend or full (or conventional that meets the specs).

Makes sense to me  thumbs up  That's the scary thing to me...someone who does not do the research and uses a lesser standard oil, trusts the OLM to do the work, and needs work later...only to be shunned for not checking first....These new vehicles are confusing me more and more...Cant keep up with the times.  confused
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« Reply #24 on: May 29, 2013, 11:40:10 PM »

most oils that meet dexos- will be synthetic blend....

Price wise-- youre better off just going with Pennzoil platinum.
Ive compared prices of some synthetic blends and for a little more-- may as well go with PP--

as I posted on another thread--- Pennzoil has a rebate offer currently...
$10 main in rebate-- 2 per household


When PP is on sale/rebates-- I stock up.
My 2013- I have a good 8 jugs of PP stocked up.

For my 2010- Dexos was not a requirement...
and I run dino oil (Valvoline) to 5000 miles.

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« Reply #25 on: May 30, 2013, 12:01:40 PM »

most oils that meet dexos- will be synthetic blend....
Price wise-- youre better off just going with Pennzoil platinum.
Ive compared prices of some synthetic blends and for a little more-- may as well go with PP--
as I posted on another thread--- Pennzoil has a rebate offer currently...
$10 main in rebate-- 2 per household
When PP is on sale/rebates-- I stock up.
My 2013- I have a good 8 jugs of PP stocked up.
For my 2010- Dexos was not a requirement...
and I run dino oil (Valvoline) to 5000 miles.

Sounds good to me! I have used anywhere from quaker state to Royal Purple in my older vehicles...The Royal purple only on my ol' hopped up 90' until I realized I was investing more than the truck and components were worth in protecting them.
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