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Author Topic: Changing coils on 2009  (Read 15342 times, 36 Replies)
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t4tr
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« on: March 25, 2013, 08:43:17 AM »

Hello-

I've read a few of the threads here regarding bad coils, especially on cylinder #5.  Several weeks ago my 2009 was starting to misfire.  I took it to the dealer and they changed coil #4.  The Acadia has about 75K miles.  Last week, it began skipping again and the CEL came on.  I took out my handheld and determined I had a misfire on cylinder #5.  Not wanting to face another couple hundred dollar bill, I decided to do this one myself.  Since #4 had a new coil, it was easy to identify which cylinder was #4.  What I didn't know, was which way to go to get #5.  As luck would have it, I got #1 and the problem still existed.  Anyway, I put the coil I took out of #1 into #5 and the problem went away.

My question is; How many more of these can I expect to change?  Is it a chronic problem?

Thanks for your help! Cheers
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« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2013, 09:06:42 AM »

This seems to be a nagging issue for the 09; coincidental that this was the first year for the DI engine.  I wouldn't expect anymore than 1 but you are getting ready to change your second one.  Hopefully this will be the last one that needs changing
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« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2013, 09:23:00 AM »

I had one go bad around 36k, replaced under warranty.  Next one is probably on me, as the 2009 has 49,300 miles and ticking.  It would be nice to know the firing order, I believe it is 2-4-6 in the back left to right, and 1-3-5 in the front left to right.
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lamping.ap
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« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2013, 06:25:27 PM »

From the FSM:
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The right bank of cylinders are number 1-3-5 and the left bank of cylinders are 2-4-6. The engine firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6. Right hand (RH) and left hand (LH) designation through the engine mechanical section are viewed from the rear of the engine or from inside the vehicle.

So the front of the car would be 2-4-6 and the rear 1-3-5 from left to right.

The coils are 'supposed' to last 100k mi.
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jcbecker28
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« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2013, 07:34:58 PM »

Just change them all.  That's what I did along with the spark plugs.  I kept the old ones, but have no idea how to test them.  Amazon is your friend.
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lamping.ap
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« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2013, 08:16:45 PM »

Just change them all.  That's what I did along with the spark plugs.  I kept the old ones, but have no idea how to test them.  Amazon is your friend.
According to the FSM, they only need replaced if the car pops a code for a misfire. It has you test the circuitry to the coil, then if that passes, you know the coil is faulty and should be replaced. See below.
Quote
Circuit/System Testing

Note: Do not perform this diagnostic procedure if you were not sent here from a misfire DTC or the Engine Cranks but Does Not Run diagnostic.
 •Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector of the ignition coil.
 •Ignition ON, load test for battery voltage between the ignition voltage circuit terminal 2 and ground.
 ⇒If less than B+, test the ignition voltage circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal and the ignition circuit fuse is open, test all the components connected to the ignition voltage circuit and replace as necessary.
 •Crank or start the engine. Test for 200-400 mV between the appropriate IC circuit terminal 1 and ground.
 ⇒If less than the specified value, test the IC circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit/connection tests normal, replace the ECM.
 ⇒If greater than the specified value, test the IC circuit for a short to voltage. If the circuit/connection tests normal, replace the ECM.
 •Connect a test lamp between the each of the ground circuits terminal 3, and terminal 4, and B+. The test lamp should illuminate on each circuit.
 ⇒If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the suspected circuit for an open/high resistance.
 •If all circuits/connections test normal, replace the ignition coil.
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stoney56
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« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2013, 07:26:03 AM »

Just an FYI, when my coil went bad, the car did not store an engine misfire code.  They had to do the resistance test that lamping.ap described to find it.
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StanB
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« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2013, 11:19:49 AM »

I just took my 2009 Acadia in this morning due to misfiring.  Coil #2 was the issue.  BTW, not covered under powertrain warranty.  Not a "lubricated" part...  so sad

I'm expecting Ourisman Chevrolet-Buick-GMC in Alexandria, VA to screw up the repair somehow, as they always seem to do.   GM should shut that dealership down for the shoddy repair work they do on their vehicles.  I really like my Acadia, but it will probably be the last GM vehicle i buy if I have to deal with Ourisman...

Stan
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« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2013, 11:36:29 AM »

Just an FYI, when my coil went bad, the car did not store an engine misfire code.  They had to do the resistance test that lamping.ap described to find it.
If your Acadia wasn't throwing codes, how did you know that you had a bad coil?  I mean, what led you to even having them tested?
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lamping.ap
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« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2013, 12:03:27 PM »

I just took my 2009 Acadia in this morning due to misfiring.  Coil #2 was the issue.  BTW, not covered under powertrain warranty.  Not a "lubricated" part...  so sad

I'm expecting Ourisman Chevrolet-Buick-GMC in Alexandria, VA to screw up the repair somehow, as they always seem to do.   GM should shut that dealership down for the shoddy repair work they do on their vehicles.  I really like my Acadia, but it will probably be the last GM vehicle i buy if I have to deal with Ourisman...

Stan

They are very simple to change out. You should've tried to do it yourself.

Edit: I'm referring to Coil #2. #s 1, 3, 5 require you to remove the intake manifold per the FSM.
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« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2013, 01:20:36 PM »

My car starting "bucking" when it was was running between 1800 and 2200 rpm, mostly in 6th gear, on the interstate.  It was especially bad when it was very cold outside (not sure if the outside temp has anything to do with it, but I noticed this twice). 

I brought it in the first time and Ourisman reflashed my transmission, which did nothing to fix the situation. 

Then I started researching the issue, and I found some posts in the Saturn Outlook forum about this same issue happening on 2009 Outlooks.  I took my car in this morning and brought the forum posts with me to give to the technican, which included a referenced service bulletin.  Sure enough, that was the issue.  Ourisman called me 2 hours after I brought it in, guess it was a slow day for service...

I don't do it myself because I don't have confidence in my abilities to do it.  Maybe next time...
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StanB
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« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2013, 01:34:25 PM »

Here is the post from the Saturn Outlook forum which helped me diagnose the problem, and what I brought to Ourisman this morning...

?topic=2153.0

Stan
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« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2013, 05:14:57 PM »

I just took my 2009 Acadia in this morning due to misfiring.  Coil #2 was the issue.  BTW, not covered under powertrain warranty.  Not a "lubricated" part...  so sad

I'm expecting Ourisman Chevrolet-Buick-GMC in Alexandria, VA to screw up the repair somehow, as they always seem to do.   GM should shut that dealership down for the shoddy repair work they do on their vehicles.  I really like my Acadia, but it will probably be the last GM vehicle i buy if I have to deal with Ourisman...

Stan

 Uzi This stealership is CRAP! I was robbed by them when I was visiting the MD area with my family. My water pump died and my vehicle was towed to this place.
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« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2013, 06:40:38 PM »

I can tell you for a FACT that my coils did not have CEL on, but was experiencing the "bucking" situation.  After coil replacement, everything was fine.
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« Reply #14 on: April 02, 2013, 10:31:48 PM »

Hi Stan,

I am sorry to hear about this issue you are experiencing.  I would like to help in any way that I can.  If you wouldn't mind sending me your VIN# and zip code I can take a look further and find another dealership in your area. 

Jessica
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I just took my 2009 Acadia in this morning due to misfiring.  Coil #2 was the issue.  BTW, not covered under powertrain warranty.  Not a "lubricated" part...  so sad

I'm expecting Ourisman Chevrolet-Buick-GMC in Alexandria, VA to screw up the repair somehow, as they always seem to do.   GM should shut that dealership down for the shoddy repair work they do on their vehicles.  I really like my Acadia, but it will probably be the last GM vehicle i buy if I have to deal with Ourisman...

Stan
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« Reply #15 on: April 03, 2013, 07:30:01 AM »

Stan - I have bought vehicles from Koon's GMC in Manassas and have been very pleased with their service.  It is a bit of a drive from Alexandria but might be worth considering.  I hope you get your issue resolved soon.  All the Best
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« Reply #16 on: April 03, 2013, 12:51:53 PM »

My car starting "bucking" when it was was running between 1800 and 2200 rpm, mostly in 6th gear, on the interstate. 

Points to either a coil and/or spark plug misfire.  Replacement of the coil may not fix the problem.  Most dealers will replace the coil and the spark plug that is causing a misfire condition in the appropriate cylinder.
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« Reply #17 on: April 03, 2013, 02:30:05 PM »

I had the same bucking issue on the freeway and went ahead and changed the plugs, which looked like they could have lasted another 40K miles (I have 60K on it now).   However, when I was pulling the intake manifold off, I noticed one of the vacuum lines was completely disconnected from the manifold.  I have no idea if changing the plugs fixed it or if reattaching the hose did.  Either way, the plugs and coil packs looked fine (some sites suggested that if the coil pack was bad, there would be a black carbon trail on the plug porcelain, which I did not see) when I pulled them out.  I lubed them up good with dielectric grease when I put the new plugs in.

The Acadia DID flash a CEL when I went WOT to do an uphill pass before I changed my plugs, but it must not have stored it, as the dealership was unable to see any codes when they checked.  Apparently, they were also unable to see the disconnected hose, despite telling me that I had oil in my intake that needed a $200 cleaning to remove.   so sad
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« Reply #18 on: April 03, 2013, 03:06:24 PM »

despite telling me that I had oil in my intake that needed a $200 cleaning to remove.   so sad

Wow; $200 to clean out the oil in the intake that GM decided to route in there in the first place  facepalm
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« Reply #19 on: April 04, 2013, 03:05:11 PM »

That's what I thought, too.  I've read good things about their Top Engine Cleaning, but an $8 can of Seafoam would probably be just as easy.
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