NAVIGATION LOCKOUT BYPASS for about $3 bucks- STEP BY STEP WITH PICTURES

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[Blue_2009_SLT2]

That color coding sounds right- when I installed our headrest DVD system, the plug where it drew power used a yellow wire for this function. I'm used to seeing pink for switched and orange for battery on the engine harnesses I've worked with, so yellow was new.

[AA/78U]

That color coding sounds right- when I installed our headrest DVD system, the plug where it drew power used a yellow wire for this function. I'm used to seeing pink for switched and orange for battery on the engine harnesses I've worked with, so yellow was new.

Sometimes I think they do that so people don't get into the wiring and make adjustments; if power has always been red for 30 years; let's make power purple to throw off the DIY mechanics

[domtesta]

Tim, here you go.  IGN signal is on pin 2 of X7 on the BCM, yellow wire.  X7 is the grey 28 pin connector.  (There is another yellow wire on pin 6 of X7 but its for the door lock relay.)

For anyone else listening in, I wouldn't connect anything but a relay to this wire because I don't know how much current the BCM could supply to this circuit.  On the other hand, this circuit does supply IGN to a bunch of modules so it should be somewhat robust.

[Tim]

And it would probably even catch up on the other side of the tunnel.

That's why I mentioned Lower Wacker Drive or the Big Dig.  There are many turns before you get to "the other side of tunnel."  Take the wrong turn and you come out the wrong "other side."

I only know this because it's happened to me using handheld GPS units.  This was one of the reasons my wife and I decided to get the OEM navigation.  Though next time, because of this forum has enlightened me, we may get an after-market in-dash GPS.

[Tim]

IGN signal is on pin 2 of X7 on the BCM, yellow wire.  X7 is the grey 28 pin connector.  (There is another yellow wire on pin 6 of X7 but its for the door lock relay.)

Ah yes!  I see what you're saying.  Looking at the BCM schematics on alldatadiy, I see several BCM outputs labels IGN:

• X7 Pin 2 Yellow (goes to Power Moding Schematics)
• X1 Pins 2 White, 21 Brown, 14 Pink; X4 Pins 19 Dark Blue, 21 Pink (goes to Power Distribution Schematics)
• X1 Pin 17 Purple (Radio/Navigation System Schematics) see note below

X7 Pin 6 Yellow is shown as an input to the BCM from the Door Lock/Indicator Schematics.  There's a switch going to ground - for the door lock relay you mentioned.  I assume.

NOTE: Another schematic labeled Secondary Controls shows that X1 Pin 17 circuit 1375 provides power to the steering wheel items (airbag, cruise control, and radio buttons).  So the description on the BCM schematic is only a partial description.

domtesta, I need to check out the Power Moding and Power Distribution Schematics and then take you up on your suggestion and move my power connection from a battery source to a ignition source.  Thanks for the guidance.  Tim

[jqb0001]

Tim,

I was thinking about tackling this project this weekend.  Did you ever get a chance to find the IGN wire you would recommend we use for this?

[Tim]

Tim, I was thinking about tackling this project this weekend.  Did you ever get a chance to find the IGN wire you would recommend we use for this?

I've been tracking this down when I get a free moment to study the schematics on alldatadiy.com.  After a while, I couldn't read my notes so I started a MS Excel spreadsheet.  The spreadsheet is attached, though it is incomplete.

Looking at my notes and the spreadsheet, I would use connector X7 pin 2 (yellow wire).  In addition to the two items listed in the spreadsheet, my notes also says it powers the sunroof shade module, sunroof control module, and window switch driver/passenger.  Seems these are all the items that work with the Retained Accessory Power feature.

When I complete the spreadsheet, I’ll post a final answer and new circuit diagram.  But, I’m 95% sure at this point this is the one I will use when I change mine.  The yellow wire should be the same that domtesta mentioned in his post.  I haven’t had to take my car in for service so this is pretty far down my to do list.

I’d like to thank domtesta for pointing out this improvement.

[bucyluca]

I like the no-hole method that bsox used on his Enclave (http://www.enclaveforum.net/index.php?topic=4295.msg58221#msg58221).  So I'm thinking of hooking up a relay to the dome light switch that would cut-off the VSS wire.

This dome light switch prevents the dome lights from comming on when you open the car doors.  It has no function while the car is in motion.  So seems to be an ideal switch to use for both functions - i.e., the functions won't interfere with each other.

When the switch is depressed, it provides ground to the BCM.  So I'll just tap into this wire between the dome light switch and the BCM and provide this ground to a relay that will disconnect the VSS wire from the nav radio.  I would use a relay that is normally closed so it wouldn't draw any power until I wanted to disable the VSS wire.

Does anyone see any problems with this approach?  I draw up some schematics and post them later.

First post in this forum,

I had a Nav radio and this mod. installed to my 08 Acadia. He used a SPDT (single throw double throw) relay, I verified all the relay connections are exactly as posted to the correct connectors and wire colors. Nav radio works fine, but not the VSS by-pass.

My problem is , the dome light bypass does not work anymore when i depress it, lights stay on when I open a door. My Nav does not allow me to enter an address unless I am stopped. Also, I could not get my Cruise Control to work. The little light on the steering wheel lights up, but pressing SET, it does not engage my Cruise controle.

I used a tester this morning, touching the tester's tip to the relay's wire that is connected to the purple wire (#25, BCM X2), I would hear the relay "click" and dome lights go off. The relay is wired to normal closed on the VSS wire.

Any help would be appreciated .

[bucyluca]

I resolved my problem except for the cruise control. I am suspecting when dealer changed my steering column few months ago, he must have messed up some place.

Thanks for the cheapie Nav lock trick, works great.

[Tim]

I resolved my problem ...

Thanks for the cheapie Nav lock trick, works great.

Good to read you're getting the problems resolved.  I used the lockout bypass today.  It's a great improvement to the OEM nav.

[bhocken]

Hello Forum, I need some help...

First off, let me say thanks - the information contained here is awesome!  I have a 2007 Acadia and tried this modification without success and can't figure out what's up?  Tim, I followed your detailed instructions and installed the relay exactly as you did, except I used the IGN power source you and Domtesta recommended ( pin # 2 of X7...yellow wire).  So here's where the fun began...
After I hooked everything up, I went to bed b/c it was 2:00 AM and I didn't want to wake the house by opening the garage door.  When I came out in the morning, anxious to try the new mod, my battery was dead...totally dead.  I charged the battery and double-checked my wiring...everything was wired correctly, but the relay would not work.  So I disconnected the relay and bench tested it...the relay is working fine.  I then rewired using the power source from the original wiring diagram (X4 pin 2).

Still no luck, nothing's happening.  I checked my wiring again and it's good.  I just went out and tried to retest all the connections...the Power (X4 #2) and ground (dome light switch when activated) are pushing +/- 12v on the multimeter the first couple of minutes (maybe 15 minutes), and then my battery went dead again.  Anyone have any idea what could be going on?

I haven't had any past electrical problems, except once my wife drained the battery watching a DVD.  After I jumped the car, the speedo and tach would not work so I went to the GM dealer and they looked at it...they reseated a relay and everything was fine.  They didn't get any error codes or find any other problems.

I'm at a loss, anyone?

thanks for all the great info!

-Bryan

[Tim]

I need some help...

Some quick thoughts:
1. Does the dome light switch still work?  That is, open the door, depress dome light switch, dome light goes out.
2. Is 2007 schematics identical to 2008?  I assume so, but have no way of knowing for sure.
3. When you first connected to pin #2, x7, that should only have +12v when the key is on.  Or if just removed, it has +12v until the driver door is opened to kill the Retained Accessory Power feature.  So, I wonder if you nicked another wire and provided a high resistance path to ground to drain the battery.  It would have to be a high resistance to ground type of short or else a fuse should have blown somewhere.
4. The BCM controls practically everything electrical in the car.  Is anything else not working?
5. Did you use a relay socket?  I don't recall on my own installation but wonder if you can plug the relay in backwards?  If so, I wonder what's connected to what in that situation.
6. The pictures of the BCM connectors in my circuit diagram are view of the connector when it is unplugged from the BCM.  When you do the wiring, you’re looking at the back.  So pin #25, X2 is on right bottom, not left bottom.
7. I wonder if using pin #2 X4 as the power source can drain the battery if you leave dome light switch on (depressed) all the time.  My relay only draws 150mA, but I don't want to test this idea.  Another reason to use pin #2, X7.

Bryan, You may have thought of all of these already.  If so, hopefully the list may give you some other ideas.  Let us know how it goes.

[jqb0001]

bhocken,

Funny you mention what is happending to you. I had the exact same thing happen to me when I wired this up.  I could not ever figure out what was going on so I just removed the relay and put in a push button switch to manually operate the bypass.  I think the draw from the relay is causing a circuit to stay energized and for some reason the car isn't shutting it down.  I noticed something strange when trying to troubleshoot this.  When my relay was wired in, the courtesy light in the footwell on the drivers side would flicker as I messed with the wires.  I checked all of my connections and they were rock solid.  I think it was maybe drawing too much current or something.  Sorry I can't be more help.

[bhocken]

Jqb001, sorry to hear you're having the same problems, but glad I'm not alone...misery loves company   Just curious, what year/model is your vehicle?

Tim, thanks for the followup, unfortunately I think I covered all your topics as I double-checked everything...I used a relay socket, so no way to plug in backwards and everything else checks out.  Your point #6 is interesting...I believe I used the correct orientation, but I'm definitely going to double-check.  I'll post back with my results.

On a positive note, I put in a temporary toggle switch since the VSS wire was already cut and set up with quick-connects.  I used the bypass this morning and REALLY liked not having to pull over to modify my destination!

-Bryan

[domtesta]

Some relay sockets have diodes built into them.  (To prevent reverse current surges from damaging the circuit driving the relay coil.)  This makes the relay coil polarity sensitive.  If you connect the relay coil wires backwards, it will look like a short circuit.  It seems like most relay sockets don't have the diodes so this is just a thought.

[Tim]

Some relay sockets have diodes built into them.  (To prevent reverse current surges from damaging the circuit driving the relay coil.)  This makes the relay coil polarity sensitive.  If you connect the relay coil wires backwards, it will look like a short circuit.  It seems like most relay sockets don't have the diodes so this is just a thought.

Good point.  They build resistors and diodes into the relay too.  Attached is the spec sheet for the relay I used in my circuit - V23234-A1001-X036.

Bryan, If you used a relay with a resistor across the coil it could explain why your battery was drained.

[jqb0001]

I have a 2007 SLT-2 and I used the relay that was recommended in the original posts.  I ordered it from ebay.

[bhocken]

This is very interesting...I too have a 2007 SLT2 and I used the same relay from the original posts, which is the Tyco V23234-A1001-X036...same as yours Tim.  Maybe there's something different in the 2007 specs that is creating this problem? 

I hate to admit defeat, but I'm giving up on the relay (for now!) and going to use a simple switch to enact the override.  I'll just consider this a small victory, since I still get the override, just not the way I wanted it!  Besides, I'm moving on to finding a VCIM and bluetooth antenna so I can add bluetooth functionality like the '09s!

thanks for all the help.

-Bryan

[Damron]

Just to throw it in...

Ours is a 07 SLT2.  I used Tim's original diagram (i.e. NOT the IGN power source pin) per his posted specs.  Hasn't given us any power or dead battery problems yet, and we are careless about whether or not it is engaged overnight.  It has sat both engaged and not-engaged for days without any power drain issued.  I even have some other accessories that run when the IGN is OFF and the drain hasn't killed the battery.  I've thought about getting back down there to change the power source over to the IGN, but given the problems you have experienced, I think I'll stick with what we have.  Mainly I just wanted to point out that the original spec diagram will work on an 07 SLT2.

[Timmer]

Anyone know if this works on a 2010?